Report on waterbased acrylic paint
#1
Report on waterbased acrylic paint
On a whim I picked up a rattle can of Krylon H2O acrylic enamel to try. While I had my front end dissassembled I decided to use it on the frame to test it. I scrubbed the frame clean with a brush wash of mineral spirits followed by a scrub with undiluted Simple Green, and finally a rinse with hot water and towel dry. I wire brushed the crossmember where the radiator frame mounts to remove surface rust and wiped it clean with acetone. Note my frame is in excellent shape with little to no rust save a little surface rust in hidden places like this. I then gave the area from the deflectors back to the engine mount a quick coat of Rustoleum sandable primer. After the primer dried for 30 min I shot the frame with the H2O paint (gloss black). I was surprised that the can was under a much higher pressure than solvent based rattle can paint, so I could move back away from the surface and get a much bigger spray pattern. When the paint hit the frame it looked very rough like bedliner (the can warns to expect waterbubbles in it) but then in a few seconds it laid down and flowed out as smooth as silk.
The can says it will dry in 15 minutes and be handled in 1 hr, and it was correct.
It also says you can recoat at any time, something you can't do with solvent paint: you have a fairly small time window for recoating or it must dry for several days and be scuffed before applying more coats. I saw a couple places where I hadn't covered inside the rails, so I went back and touched up as well as adding another fairly heavy coat over the area where the surface rust had been to see how smooth it would get without heavy sanding or grinding. I checked on it the next day and much to my pleasant surprise, the frame looked like it had been powdercoated with a glossy sheen! The smooth areas look brand new, and where the rust had been was a smooth texture with no thinning on the high spots. The paint, although it goes on pretty thick compared to solvent based, resisted running, I got no noticable runs or drips, and was very economical IMHO. I used a full can of primer, but only ~ 1/2 a can of the H2O to cover the same areas even with recoating. Durability has not been tested, but the dried finish seemed harder than normal for rattlecan when I tapped it with a fingernail after drying overnight. Give it a try! I got mine at WallMart. Now if only came in more colors...
The can says it will dry in 15 minutes and be handled in 1 hr, and it was correct.
It also says you can recoat at any time, something you can't do with solvent paint: you have a fairly small time window for recoating or it must dry for several days and be scuffed before applying more coats. I saw a couple places where I hadn't covered inside the rails, so I went back and touched up as well as adding another fairly heavy coat over the area where the surface rust had been to see how smooth it would get without heavy sanding or grinding. I checked on it the next day and much to my pleasant surprise, the frame looked like it had been powdercoated with a glossy sheen! The smooth areas look brand new, and where the rust had been was a smooth texture with no thinning on the high spots. The paint, although it goes on pretty thick compared to solvent based, resisted running, I got no noticable runs or drips, and was very economical IMHO. I used a full can of primer, but only ~ 1/2 a can of the H2O to cover the same areas even with recoating. Durability has not been tested, but the dried finish seemed harder than normal for rattlecan when I tapped it with a fingernail after drying overnight. Give it a try! I got mine at WallMart. Now if only came in more colors...
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Thanks, AX, this is a fine example of a tip that should be collected and saved. I did reformat your original post and saved it in the paint folder of my computer for my use, but maybe whoever does the FAQ and Tips for the forum will want to make it availible to every one.
The point about recoat times is important - I lost 48 hours this weekend on my project as I painted my housing, springs, and hangers with rustoleum semi-gloss black Saturday morning. I had rigged up a pipe to hang the parts from. When I could handle the parts (4 hours) I started to install them and noticed that I had done a lousy job on the ends near the floor.
I did not want to repaint them in place, so all I could do is hang them back up and wait for the recommended re-coat time. So now I am installing them this afternoon, a job I should have finished Saturday.
It would have been nice to repaint, have a cup of coffee, and then install them!
The point about recoat times is important - I lost 48 hours this weekend on my project as I painted my housing, springs, and hangers with rustoleum semi-gloss black Saturday morning. I had rigged up a pipe to hang the parts from. When I could handle the parts (4 hours) I started to install them and noticed that I had done a lousy job on the ends near the floor.
I did not want to repaint them in place, so all I could do is hang them back up and wait for the recommended re-coat time. So now I am installing them this afternoon, a job I should have finished Saturday.
It would have been nice to repaint, have a cup of coffee, and then install them!
#6
#7
Originally Posted by fatfenders56
Has anyone used Auto Air water based paints??
Has anyone used Auto Air water based paints??
hotrod48
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Almost all modern cars (not just Japanese) are painted with water-borne paint (originally due to EPA concerns over solvents, but also because it's higher quality). I personally don't understand the distinction between water-borne and water based. Seems to be a superior technology. I'd be curious how they do basecoat/clearcoat with it.