Think the fuel line issues are cleared up (at least I'm hoping), so I thought I'd throw this one out to the experts.

Since we bought this truck, the alternator light comes on a lot. Especially when slowing down, or going over speed bumps, etc. It pretty much stays on all the time if we've got the headlights on. Turn the blinkers on, and it flashes.

The mechanic (the same one who couldn't figure out the fuel lines after two full days) said it's because we have an external regulator. He did some adjustments on the regulator, which he said would help. But I really haven't noticed a difference.

He says the only way to fix it is to convert to an alternator with an internal regulator.

Any other ideas?

Thanks again,

Rick

 

The dude sounds like a moron. It sounds to me though like you have a loose connection someplace.

What I would try.
The first thing to do when trouble shooting an electircal system is to check all of your grounds and connectins.
1. Clean all of the crap and corrosion off of everything, check all of your grounds and connections
2. Inspect wires for missing insulation, swelling (corrosion) and poor connections (wires wrapped together and taped and such)
3. Any bad wires/connections should be cut out and re-spliced.
Use the same guage, or slightly larger wire,(a larger wire isnt nescessarily better, the more strands it has the better it can carry current) and a soldering iron (with rosin core wire) and heat shrink tubing for the best results.
4. If a wire is damaged in more than one or two spots in a short area, replace the whole wire as needed.
5. Have the alternator tested by a parts house, they have the equipment to make sure it is working properly. Most new voltage regulators are non adjustable, when a new one is needed I would suggest dumping the one you have now for one that is non-adjustable. 6. And if all else fails, find a shop that deals exclusively with electrical stuff. Those shops should know their business!


Hope this helps
Tony

'77 F250 4x4, 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250. 460, "beater" now "1 dead ford"
'73 F250, "midnight auto" now a trailer for the flamer

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-May-02 AT 09:04 AM (EST)]Sounds like you might have a weak diode or two in the alternator i'd have the alternator checked first along with what masterbeavis said to do


I also think the mechanic your going to is a moron:-X23

 

check the connections and the alternator it's self, and like everyone else said that mechanic is a moron

 

You might check the belt and the physical mounts on the alternator. it might be slipping or moving around.

Bear Tracks

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-May-02 AT 04:48 PM (EST)]I would like to re-iterate, disconnect the battery terminals and start the cleaning process.

All connections to do with charging system,they are:
Battery + & - posts
Battery cables.
Ground strap to block.
Make sure there is a ground strap from engine block to firewall.
Remove voltage regulator and clean the back of it where it touches ground ,also the metal area where it attaches > apply di-electric grease.
Clean all the voltage regulator Plug-in harness connections.Apply di-electric grease to them.
Clean wire connections at back of alternator.
Make sure the V-belt is tight enough.

Re-connect everything and adjust Engine idle to spec.
650 rpm in drive

If you still experience the charging light problem at idle > REPLACE the voltage regulator>
BTW, The Voltage regulator Should Be a Transistor Type
Which makes that mechanic even more of a Moron.
If the Voltage REG. is blue one > It should be replaced.

REMEMBER
There are CHEAP Voltage regs out there ,Make sure you get a quality replacement. Like a *Wilson* Brand


[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]

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rw,
If fixing your truck is so easy then why are you sending it to someone else? It's very easy to pile on when your not responsible. Not to mention,you haven't even seen this guys truck. From what I can tell from reading this, there are multiple problems that could make diagnosis not so obvious. I have had an identical problem with my 1978. As I drive down the road and hit railroad tracks or a pothole the ALT light flashes. I replaced the voltage regulator and it solved the problem. I can't recall how many people on this site have had a similiar, to exactly, the same problem but, its more than 12. Maybe your mechanic earns a living fixing cars because he's good at it!
My Way is the Highway,
KingFisher

 

If the voltage regulator is a blue one, replace it? Mine is blue. That's what Schuck's gave me when we bought the new one.

Alternator is also new, and it's the second new one put in. The guy I bought it from had just put one in.

And I know this will make me sound stupider... (HEY!!! At least I'm trying)... What is a ground strap from engine block to firewall, and where should I look for it at?

Thanks again,

Rick

 

The ground strap is a braided flat cable that bolts to the back of the right bank head > to the firewall with a screw.

The OLD blue Voltage Regs were adjustable and were know to go out of adjustment,that truck should have a transistorized V.R.


[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]

[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]
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[font color=green]Do You Need To Decode Your 78 Truck Data Plate?
[/font

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Then Buy Them HERE,At Motorhaven![/font]



[font color=green]Please Feel Free To Visit My Website.[/font]

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[font color=red]
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions,
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's" [/font]


[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
78-Buick LeSabre 403 4V [/font]

 

>I would like to re-iterate, disconnect the battery terminals
>and start the cleaning process.

Da#$%#it! Forgot that part!! I guess while I am mentioning common sense stuff to do, set the e-brake, and chock the wheels.

Thanks for the reminder!

Tony

'77 F250, 4x4, 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250. 460, "beater" now "1 dead ford"
'73 F250, "midnight auto" now a trailer for the flamer

 

Hey....as stupid as some of the reminders may sound to all you experts, I'm still learning and I'm open to all the suggestions.

If I get this Alternator issue cleared up, this really will be a great truck to drive.

BTW....for anyone who saw my previous question regarding my fuel lines...I believe we found the problem was my tank selection switch. For now, I've bipassed it, and it's been running great for a day and a half now. I'm still undecided whether I even want to worry about replacing it at this point.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Rick