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Front end overhaul

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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 11:14 AM
  #1  
Freakazoid!'s Avatar
Freakazoid!
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Mountain Pass
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From: Pulaski, NY
Front end overhaul

1995 XLT, strage front end issues. I know the steering box is worn and needs a replacement, but now the truck vibrates bad over 45 mph. It will also suddenly steer itself left after going straight, and then the steering wheel is hard to turn back. I won't let my wife drive it because she says it "ripped the steering wheel right out of her hands."

I figured I would overhaul the whole thing, replace bushings with polyurethane, maybe a bit of paint, and the dreaded ball joints. I was hoping that someone out there has done this type of project recently, and could throw out some things to watch for. I plan on dismantling the whole front end so I could take care of long term issues like the front diff passenger side seal. I am not going to do any swaps like a straight axle or anything, just looking to get my Bronco ready for winter.

Thanks (in advance) for the help, this is the go to place for Ford info.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 11:26 AM
  #2  
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pacer88220
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From: coldest place in hell
When I done my 79 frame build (project in the making) earlier this year I also added dual steering stabilizer's to it as well. Just to help keep it straight. It need both because it is aimed at off road. Planning on 38" tires as a minimum. My 81 and 85 already has one (meaning single stabilizer's) on them already. The 79 did not. It tended to drift more then the others.
Just a thought and not sure if you have one or not but they are nice.
Also be sure to get it aligned when finished. Mine hasn't been yet but then the body isn't on it either meaning it isn't even ready to be driven maybe next summer.
 

Last edited by pacer88220; Oct 21, 2005 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 12:57 PM
  #3  
94 XLT White/ Silver 302's Avatar
94 XLT White/ Silver 302
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From: VB. Virginia
I just did a complete front end overhaul and a lift at the same time. I used energy syspension poly bushings for the radius arms and the pivot bushings, all steering linkage and ball joints were Moog if you buy Moog make sure it says Moog on the part because TRW bought Moog out and some TRW parts are showing up in Moog boxes the Moog parts are a lot heavier duty. The ball joints aren't to bad if you have a ball joint press. I would barrow or buy one you'll need it. The knuckle will come off with the ball joints still in the knuckle so you can replace the ball joints on your work bench. One problem you may have is the speed sensors for your ABS sometimes corrode in the knuckle and you will have to distroy it get it out they cost $55.00 ea. wholesale at Ford. Also the bolt that holds the bracket for the ABS sensor has a male torx head so you will need a special torx to remove the bolt. I bought a set made by Leslie. Until you get the speed sensor bracket off you can't get the spindle off and get the axle out to remove the knuckle. I would give your ball joints a good bath with penetrating oil a day before you start.

 

Last edited by 94 XLT White/ Silver 302; Oct 21, 2005 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 01:36 PM
  #4  
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gman88
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Make sure to replace outer axle shaft U-Joints. This is the most likely cause of the steering problem you described. I replaced ball joints, raduis arm bushings (poly), axle pivot bushings (poly), axle u-joints hub seals all at the same time. Major improvement in ride quality, you will not be sorry for this repair. The hardest part is getting the spindle off and the steering knuckle.

Good Luck
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #5  
Freakazoid!'s Avatar
Freakazoid!
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From: Pulaski, NY
I had planned on replacing everything that could wear out. The main thing is getting it done before it gets too cold - I bought a decent garage heater the other day, so now I have another excuse to blow off the repair, but the snow is on it's way, and I don't want to drive the 2WD dually in the slush.

I figure I'll collect the parts in advance - pretty risky since the parts shop employees around here are pretty clueless. Anybody know a good trick to getting the rotors off easy? I can do it, but my method always requires a new inner bearing and seal. I've seen various hub pullers on the net, but won't spend the money when I can always break inexpensive parts!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:00 AM
  #6  
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pacer88220
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From: coldest place in hell
IMHO I spent the extra 22 for the seals and bearing's. Then added new rotors just cause I was already there.

Hate doing things over.
 
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