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Hey all,
Just wondered what you might recommend for cleaning a carb without removing - ie fuel additives and sprays. What is better and who makes the best stuff?
Also, while I am at it - what is the best carb for a 302? Go with stock or aftermarket? Just a curiosity for the future.
Cheers!
Alex
gunk carb cleaner! works wonders! i used it. keep the truck on, accellerator slightly depressed to keep it from stalling, remove the air beather with engine off and spary the carb cleaner down the carb neck and around the choke plate.
The absolute without a doubt best carb spray cleaner I have ever used is Berkabile 2+2. It makes any other carb cleaner I've ever used seem like water. It's strong stuff! I bought a case of it once and it said it is not available for sale in Texas or California, so depending on where you are you might not be able to get it.
>Hey all,
>Just wondered what you might recommend for cleaning a carb
>without removing - ie fuel additives and sprays. What is
>better and who makes the best stuff?
>Also, while I am at it - what is the best carb for a 302?
>Go with stock or aftermarket? Just a curiosity for the
>future.
>Cheers!
>Alex
>
I would go with both the tank additive and a spray cleaner. The carb has air bleeds and other orfices that have to be kept clean. This can only be done with a spray cleaner. To clean out the bowls a tank additive might work.
For a 302 the size of the carb would vary according to how it was built. I think 600 cfm would be a good start for a stock motor. As far as brand, Holley and Edelbrock both make a good product. How much are you going to tinker with it. The nice thing about the Edelbrock is that there are no gaskets below the fuel level to leak.
Just a quick note in response to the above - The carb isn't really dirty I don't think - It has never been off and is the original carb, I just think it could be runnin a bit better and want to clean it up a bit - I have used various cleaners and sprays - just was wondering what is the best to go with - trying to find out who has had experiences with what products.
One point of note: I am in Canada and for some strange reason some of the best products don't seem to be available up here.
As far as what I am planning to do with it in the future, I am pretty much intent on keeping it close to stock - but would go to an aftermarket carb if better performance/fuel usage overall.
Thanks for the input so far.
Cheers!
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-May-02 AT 05:04 PM (EST)]I have an Autolite 4100 on my Galaxie. It had a rusty gas tank when I bought the car. I cleaned out the tank but residual rust and grit were a problem for a while. Even with an in line filter I would get very fine grit, almost like silt, in the Carb. What I do is leave the carb on the intake and just take the top off and look inside the bowls for grit and gunk. If dirty I remove the floats, jets and clean with a small rag and then spray in some stuff called Chemtool Carb Cleaner. But I guess most brands will work. Use safty glasses! Make sure the jets are clear. Then I put the jets and floats back in, fill the bowls and replace the top. If you have a 4v, just make sure you get the floats and needle valves back in the same seats or you might have flooding problem. 20 min. tops.
Without a doubt the one most touted in these parts is the Chevron additive. Its either Techron or Techroline. Its called one thing at the gas stations(its the same additive they put in their gasoline) and another when they sell it by the can. Can't remember which is which. The big department stores usually carry it. You got Wal-Mart there in Canuckville? Auto parts usually carry it too. Only buy it at a Chevron station as a last resort...many Canadian dollars. Don't be scared...buy the big can...quart I think...maybe a liter. If one don't do it hit it again. Past this a rebuild is next in line. Spray is definitely good for the linkages and such.
Hope this helps.
Texas Bird
Daddy's First Car Was A Model T--He Bought It Used For $11.50 And Drove It Home
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-May-02 AT 12:15 PM (EST)]Thanks for the input guys.
Yes - We have Wal-Mart up here - I'll have a look there - they tend to carry US products that no one else does. Chevron is non-exisitant in these parts though. Our Big automotive store is Canadian Tire - Have a look at their web site: http://www.canadiantire.ca
Next to that we have NAPA stores, Car Quest and one other I can't quite recall the name of. Of course we have a few independants around.
I really appreciate all the suggestions and tips - it makes things easier all around.
Yes - I would imagine most stuff is many Canadian Dollars - right now $1.00 US = $1.63 Canadian - YIKES!
Cheers!
Amsoil Power Foam works the best. It cleans the carb, inside the intake, valves, combustion chambers, tops of the pistons.
You get the truck to operating temperature, spray the whole can down your carb (you may have to stop a few times so the truck doesnt die). Spraying it while the motor runs, allows the foam to be sucked in further into the motor. Then you shut the motor off, set for 10-20 minutes. This allows the stuff to penetrate the build up. Fire the truck up, hope on the freeway, make sure no black and whites are around, mash the throttle about 3 times (put a load on it). Look in your rear view mirror, and watch the white smoke (carbon) come out your pipes.
I do this about every 6 months since I don't put a load on my truck that often.
For the summer heat, I also throw in Redline Water Wetter in my radiator for a more efficient heat transfer, lub, reduces head temp, anticorrosion, etc.
Chemtool B-12 carb cleaner in the pourable can (not the carb cleaner dipping stuff). Add to tank of gas - excellent for gummed up carbs which may have sat for years. I believe it is better than Chevron and costs just $2.50
also good but three times the price LubroMoly carb cleaner. . .
CRC carb cleaner for spraying the outside of the carb. . . CRC products are always high quality.
If you don't have hesitation or something like it calling for internal cleaning its best not to use much of the tank additives at all. They can remove the built up carbon on cyclinder walls which actuall help the older engines.
No amount of spraying will fix old stiff accelerator pump and power valve diaphrams and worn out float needles. These carbs are not that complicated and a rebuild would really get the most out of it.
That's a good point. When I owned one of those "other" trucks, it had a quadrajet on it and I didn't mess with it. Now I have a Holley on my F100 and they are a piece of cake to rebuild, and takes maybe a half hour or so once you get the hang of it. Rebuild kits include new power valve and gaskets and such as to get it running sweet.
Hmm...based on this info, maybe I should just look at pulling it off and rebuilding - it's never been off and the truck runs ok, but I think it could run better and a bit more fuel efficient - have you seen the price of gas lately???
Cheers!