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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 02:12 AM
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Cap'n Tea Bag's Avatar
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Total Seal piston rings

Has anyone ever tried these? The idea sounds good. I checked out the prices at summit and they were pretty high. Are they worth it?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 07:07 AM
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If you are building an all-out race motor, then they are worth it. For the street, save your money, you will never know the difference. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 02:37 AM
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I mud drag in a class that requires 15 in. of vaccum pulled at 1000 rpm, and I started using the total seal gapless rings and was able to run a larger cam than I had ever been able to before. It made a world of differance. So if you are racing than yes, but otherwise?
 
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 09:17 PM
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So if you are racing than yes, but otherwise?
Why only for racing? I use them in ALL engines. Zero leakdown (or nearly so), better ring seal, nearly zero blowby.......all these thing promote better fuel mileage for one. And your oil stays cleaner for a longer period of time. Stays so clear, you can't even see it on the stick. The little extra power they make on the street, doesn't hurt anything either.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 09:32 PM
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Ok, so they offer better vaccum, better leakdown & blowby protection, and better fuel mileage.

Are the gapless top or the gapless 2nd ring sets better? Which do you usually use stevef100s?

I looked at their website, and I can only find that they come in ductile iron ring sets. Do they also come in moly?
 
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 09:44 PM
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From: Destin/Ft. Walton Beach,
I've only used the gapless top ring sets. The others have only been out fairly recently, and I still have some of the zero gap top sets in stock. I would rather have ductile iron ring sets. I've never figured out what some see in moly rings. They're so stinking hard, they don't like to seat real well. I've known several people who ended up with oil burners, because moly rings require a different cylinder honing process then iron. I've heard about moly rings since the 70's, but I think that moly is more at home in race car tubing.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by stevef100s
Why only for racing? I use them in ALL engines. Zero leakdown (or nearly so), better ring seal, nearly zero blowby.......all these thing promote better fuel mileage for one. And your oil stays cleaner for a longer period of time. Stays so clear, you can't even see it on the stick. The little extra power they make on the street, doesn't hurt anything either.
Steve,
I was not saying that they were for racing only, just I have used them for racing and they work great, but I have never tried them on a street engine. Thus the question mark.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by stevef100s
I would rather have ductile iron ring sets. I've never figured out what some see in moly rings. They're so stinking hard, they don't like to seat real well.
i was told that the iron rings leave a bit metal on the cylinder every pass. Don't know myself...but I will be going gaples for my propane 400- no idea how to put them on so will punt on that.

Which gapless would be considered tops in a 11:1 cr propane motor?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by roger dowty
i was told that the iron rings leave a bit metal on the cylinder every pass. Don't know myself...but I will be going gaples for my propane 400- no idea how to put them on so will punt on that.

Which gapless would be considered tops in a 11:1 cr propane motor?

Mine are Total seal, and they have to be file fitted, (max seal) the gapless are on the top ring and consist of two rings that fit into the same ring journal that I place each gap 180 degrees apart. I can't remeber if the instructions called for that much spacing of the two, or just 90, but that is what I have been doing.
The brand you buy will have the instructions with them.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 02:26 AM
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thanks! One more ? down and about a zillion to go
 
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