Traction lock vs. open differential
#2
Traction lock vs. open differential
Guys, need a lesson in traction lock vs. open differential. Is there any advantage / disadvantage for me to convert my 9" open to traction lock? Seems better to me to have traction at both tires rather than one, but would it require more hp to turn both wheels? I defintiely don't want to have reduced mileage. I'd also think the open may be better in icy conditions - but not really sure. Reason being, have a buddy trying to sell me a t-lock third member (still have to pull an axle and count splines) that has a little better gear ratio (3.00 rather than the 2.75 I have now). Do any of you have any input on the pro's and con's of each???
#3
Traction lock vs. open differential
You'll most likely give up a little mileage going to a 3.00 from 2.75. As far as
improved traction goes, it will help, but as you said the open will be better in
icy conditions. I have a trac-lock and don't mind it so much on ice, just keep off
the gas on turns. I'd say stick with what you got if you're only using it for a daily
driver...
improved traction goes, it will help, but as you said the open will be better in
icy conditions. I have a trac-lock and don't mind it so much on ice, just keep off
the gas on turns. I'd say stick with what you got if you're only using it for a daily
driver...
#4
Traction lock vs. open differential
I'd say it depends on what you do. If you drive it daily and you are not doing tough off-roading, leave the 2.75 and open diff. If you want to be a better 4wd-er, then the limited slip is the way to go. (Traction-Lok is Ford's limited slip.)
I have limited slip on both axles. I think the mileage is insignificant if your point is 4wd-ability. LSD are excellent.
I have limited slip on both axles. I think the mileage is insignificant if your point is 4wd-ability. LSD are excellent.
#5
Traction lock vs. open differential
I am undecided between the open and traction lock diffs. When I first started using the traction lock, it was in a mustang. I found when I was on ice or snow, it was much harder to drive. If you get on a hill and start spinning, the car will want to go into the ditch. My truck has traction lock front and rear. The front does some weird things, but the rear is the same as the mustang. If you start spinning, the rear will not stay put. It will go to one side or the other. My other cars and trucks will stay in the road and either make no progress, or slow progress while one tire is spinning. But one the other hand, we had a large snow a few years back, and the road was only pushed out for one lane. I met this guy in a toyota 4wd and we both had to run over in the snow banks to squeeze by each other. My truck struggled a little but went on, while I looked back and he was stuck. His two passenger side wheels were spinning in the snow bank while the others in the road where just sitting there.
#6
Traction lock vs. open differential
I'd go with the trac lock. You'll loose some traction cornering in ice/snow, but gain traction everywhere else.
I, personally, hate open dif's. They're only good for cornering in snow and the rest of the time they're useless. The whole concept of "transfer power to the wheel with no traction" seeme silly to me.
Just my opinion.
Kevin K.
I, personally, hate open dif's. They're only good for cornering in snow and the rest of the time they're useless. The whole concept of "transfer power to the wheel with no traction" seeme silly to me.
Just my opinion.
Kevin K.
#7
Traction lock vs. open differential
I vote for the limited slip differential too. Even in snow you can usually spin yourself free if you're turning both rear tires, same goes for sand. With an open diff. you might as well start walking for help. As for ice and cornering as long as you know don't stomp on the gas and break the whole back end loose it's never been a problem. Often I've been 4x4 situations but too lazy to stop and lock in the front hubs. With the two rears driving you can usually get through the roughest of terrain.
One note, if you do buy a used third member you may still have to spend $50 in parts and who knows how much labor to make sure the clutches inside are working. My first purchase of the LSD "learned" me the hard way. It didn't seem to drive in both wheels. When I eventually had a rearend shop change the gears back to correct ratio I asked them to check if it was a true LSD. They called back to say yes, but my clutches were bad - $50 more bucks to fix while they were in there. . .
One note, if you do buy a used third member you may still have to spend $50 in parts and who knows how much labor to make sure the clutches inside are working. My first purchase of the LSD "learned" me the hard way. It didn't seem to drive in both wheels. When I eventually had a rearend shop change the gears back to correct ratio I asked them to check if it was a true LSD. They called back to say yes, but my clutches were bad - $50 more bucks to fix while they were in there. . .
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