rotella t 5w40 is a great oil but not a true synthetic it is GP III so it is ultra refined dino oil. it is not a PAO basestock.

 

Late 1980's I bought a logsplitter from Northern. Ten horsepower beauty that would split all. Only if it was above 30 degrees. Any colder an I had to take a torch out to heat engine oil so I could pull it fast enough to start. After engine was broke in I changed to synthetic oil. A Thermo-King dealer gave me a case of oil, think it was 15-40.

One very cold morning 0 or below, I had my dog out for morning routine, thought what the heck, lets see if splitter will start. I uncovered, set choke, 2 pulls and engine fired right up! Engine started to load-up immediately, shut choke off, for a smooth purr!

This has sold me on synthetic. Summer time with temps in 70s to low 80s, ideal time to split wood only if cold beer handy, B/S engine never used any oil. Wished I still had the splitter, divorce theives got it!

This was the older, flat head, air cooled, oil splash system. I think the cold thicker oil would be worse on the newer pressure oil system.

I remember Dad telling a older fellow " you cant teach a old dog new tricks"
Well, I try to keep open mind on new tech. Everybody says oil has changed greatly over the years, guess what, so did engines! What was gospel for old rod knockers dont go for today's hi-tech!

Heck, I remeber hearing stories from old timers, pulling along side of road, cutting a piece leather belt to fit rod bearings and driving nellie home. Not going to do that now!

my 2 cents,, half that borrowed

 

Personally, I use Mobil 1 in everything I own. I'm happy with it and I feel it saves me money, not costs it. If I am ever forced to change back to conventional oil, it would most definitely be Havoline, but until that day comes, I'm staying with what I believe to be a great product. Do what makes you feel better. It's your money. It's your equipment.

 

Hmm, I really don't buy into the mpg claim that proponets of synthetics throw out, Especially when I see an article such as this from a mfger that cranks out the big bucks to be in the "know".

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=420853

Way too many varibles to effectively claim synthetics = + Mpgs.

 

FYI: I just had my 4.6 Explorer fluids flushed / filled. The person who did it is some kind of Certified Tech and works for a Ford dealership and also a friend. We were talking about oils and I explained the raging debates that goes on the web regarding 4.6's and 5w-20 / 5w-30 / 10w-30 oils. He explained that he was told by a "master" technician in the area that Ford forced Police mechanics to start using 5w-20 on all of their 4.6's a few years ago because for a while Ford was seeing a lot of unexplained engine failures in the cruisers and they finaly traced it back to certain oils that were being used. I spoke with my uncle who is a chief mechanic at one of the Massachusetts state police barraks and he confirmed that. So there does seem to be something to the 4.6's not appreciating "thicker" oils. Of course like my uncle pointed out, not everyone hops in their car, starts it up, and floors it for a 1/2 hour chasing someone.

 

Just think of all that extra horse power freed up by the motor turning a 20wt vs a 50wt at temp!

It'd be enough to notice in a car chase!

 

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Makes perfect sense, but you'd be surprised at the belief of many here, who feel thick, heavy oil, is much more beneficial to an engine, of any make! Yet, some still want that 20w50, SAE 40 HD SAE 50 HD in their oilpans, Superrangerman2002!! Ed

 

I had 20/50 Valvoline in my 1956 292. Motor has about 500 miles on it and is in excellent condition. I started it up with the valve covers off so I could observe the rockers, and it took over 1 minute for oil to get up to the rockers! Temp in the barn was 59 degrees. Truck was probably 50 degrees. No more heavy oil for me.

 

This was exactly my point!!! Thanks for another example 46yblock!

 

HI-vis oil is ok for a VERY old, VERY tired engine in weather above 60 degrees f. Otherwise, not a good idea.

 

I still have yet to read a good argument for switching from Mobil 1 !

 

I still have yet to read a good argument for switching from Mobil 1 !


mostly a band wagon hype kind of thing.

 

No, mostly I've been there while the lab guys are testing it "kind of thing"

 

I think what my uncle meant was that officers frequently start up cold engines and race them without warming up first. I believe the theory is that the thinner oil has a better chance of getting to the top faster and hopefully saving the engine from running at high RPM while "dry". I don't think it was a HP related comment. Just my take on it.

 

I don't think anybody is saying that M1 is bad stuff nor will you find anybody to but the point to be shown is will using M1 cause a benifit large enough to suffice paying the extra cost or will a less expensive oil accomplish the same task. For instance a guy who gets rid of his vehicles before they get to 100,000 miles or even a 150,000 miles probably won't benifit much from running a full synthetic other than peice of mind in his own head. yes it's better for the engine but the engine won't yet be showing any negitive effects from not using a syntheitic either. Like I prieviously posted, my 89' buick has 275k miles on it with only cheap dino oil, infrequent changes, multiple brands of oils and viscosities, yet the engine has yet to be opened up and chances are that the trany will let go before the engine. My dad has a 93' grandprix with over 250k on the clock and has done nothing more than 3-5k mile oil & filter changes using mobile dino oil that he could by for about a buck a quart (he's now switched to cheveron since he can't get mobile that cheap anymore), again the engine has yet to be opened up for anything!!

I myself always run Castrol Synthetic blended 5w-30 in the wifes car, Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend in my pickup, and just use good ol cheap havoline dino 5w-30 & 10w-30 in the ol buick that I drive to work and back in. Will it actually make a difference, probably not, but I feel better using it and have no reason to otherwise switch, although it would be nice to just stock one brand and weight of oil instead of threee different ones. So I guess my pont is that chances are something else will wreck your engine long before you can blame it on the oil, even cheap dino oil!!