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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:15 PM
  #1  
STROKETHIS 7.3's Avatar
STROKETHIS 7.3
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Extreme Diesel Performance

About to by the package deal from EDP: 4inch stainless mbrp, edge ez box, and stage 2 afe for my 2000 7.3 for $1179.66. Sound like a good deal? Anybody running that box on a stock trans, and also how does the mbrp exhaust sound. Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:19 PM
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Mark at DPPI
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From: Tennesee
You can check the sound bites on our site for the MBRP if you like. Call us on the systempackage price if you want, we have a Guaranteed pricing policy, you can read about it on our site as well.

Mark @ DPPI
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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If you can beat the price on the exact equipment you got a deal.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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mtgrzlyman
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From: missoula montana
they will beat it very good company to deal with
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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Hows the planed mods sound guys?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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edub32
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Before you start adding fuel (via the edge ez box in your case), be sure to get gauges. Monitoring the EGT's with the pyrometer gauge is very important. If you don't keep them down then bad things can start happening. You also want a boost gauge and a transmission temperature gauge if you have an auto tranny.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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here is what i would recommend. instead of getting the $400+ AFE system, save it, and get a 3- pod A pillar gauge system. turbo boost, transmission temp, and EGT (pre turbo). mark at DPPI (he posted above) is a great guy to buy from. here is the clip of the exhaust on a otherwise stock truck.

http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/video/S6200%20Series%20Video.wmv

the gauges should run proabably around the price of a AFE system. plus, get the www.fleetfilter.com part number 46637, it is a WIX product, nick-named here at FTE, the "kwik filter". check my gallery, i have several pics of mine. it is less than $30 shipped, and is just as good as the AFE.

by the way, i have the MBRP aluminized and LOVE it to death.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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mtgrzlyman
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From: missoula montana
better get the wicked wheel and or ats housing as i found out. forget about towing until you do these mods with what you picked out
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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big inch
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I agree on the filter. Most kits are way over-priced for the performance they offer, IMO.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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Glad i posted on here. New plans i guess. Still would like the mbrp stainless exhaust, my question is if i have 3.5 exhuast and downpipe on my truck stock(its a 2000), is there a 3.5 to 4inch adaptor off the turbo in the aftermarket system?

Also with the kwik filter mod, is it as simple as taking out the stock intake and clamping on the new filter? Isnt there a temp sensor in the stock box?

Also, what other quick and ez mod can i do for a stock truck?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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The 4" down pipe will have a neck down so it will match up with the flanges on the turbo. Unless you live up north where they salt the roads during the winter, go with aluminized steel. It will last you a long time. You can save money that way also. Just take the temp sensor out and zip tie it under the filter. The filter will just clamp on the boot. You may need to get a hose clamp for that. You can also do the CCV mod to help keep everything clean under the hood. This also helps keep the IC and tubes cleaned out.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 02:58 PM
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i do live up north in maryland and the roads get really salty. Also, i read somewhere on here about unplugging a wire on the turbo??? Im new to powerstrokes thanks for the help.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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From: pawhuska,okla.
check out airflo.com for misc. parts for intakes and exhausts
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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hey im in MD too, what county? i am in Carroll. i got the aluminized. i dont plan to do too much snow driving. (maybe roosting in snow but heh)the red line, yes- there is a red tube going to the wastegate actuator (you know where that is, right?) if ya dont, follow the intake boot near the turbo. there should be a red line clipped to the boot. follow that to the right. it will go into a 90* elbow, and then into the wastegate actuator. (gold canister) just pull the elbow off the canister, and pull the elbow off of the line. then put the elbow back on the canister. thats it. what happens is that usually there is ~5psi sent through that line, which activates the wastegate. the wastegate opening dumps exhaust pressure used to spool the turbo. that hinders power. what this modification does is keep the wastegate closed, for a quicker spool-up and a higher peak (slightly) boost number.

make sure to do this while the truck is off!

oh, the probe that is in the airbox- a 1/4 c-clockwise turn, and it pulls out. then zip tie it to a brake line, out of the way of harm. it is an Air Intake Temp. sensor.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:59 PM
  #15  
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by STROKETHIS 7.3
i do live up north in maryland and the roads get really salty. Also, i read somewhere on here about unplugging a wire on the turbo??? Im new to powerstrokes thanks for the help.
it's not a wire, it is the tube that hooks to the wastegate actuator... with that tube connected, your wastegate starts to open when there is as little as 5psi of boost... not very helpful in building boost... max a stock 99 - 03 psd should see with this tube hooked up is about 17psi of boost... can you say WIMPY..! unhook it and stick it on the end of one of your boost tube clamp bolts to plug up the end of it... now your wastegate will stay closed untill you get some decent boost built and the boost pressure overcomes the spring in the actuator that is holding the wastegate closed...

one other mod that you HAVE TO HAVE... if you have an auto tranny... you have to put the sonnax kit in... you won't believe how much better your tranny works..
 
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