Volare proportioning valve?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
A disc/disc MC will work for disc/drum combo, but a drum/drum MC wil not work for disc/drum or disc/disc. Disc brakes require a larger volume of fluid than drums, so the rez on a drum MC is not large enough. If you have to push harder on the pedal to stop than you want, try a MC with a slightly smaller piston diameter. The trade off will be you'll need to press the pedal further.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
'fenders,
That's good advise for sure. My driveway is all down hill and I live in the mountains, so believe me I will be sure I have good brakes before the truck ever leaves the garage....
Vern
That's good advise for sure. My driveway is all down hill and I live in the mountains, so believe me I will be sure I have good brakes before the truck ever leaves the garage....
Vern
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,244
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Gawd! I must be havin a spell of "oldtimers"....
Went rootin' through my stash and found that I had indeed kept the proportioning valve from the Mopar donor my IFS came from.
We established a long time ago that the old pig 84 5th ave actually weighs the same if not more than the F100 and since I'll be using the pedal assy, the master cylinder and the entire front brakes from the 5th Ave, then basically I'll using the prop valve in it's natural home....
The only things different in the entire application are;
-the weight distribution is little more nose heavy with the truck
-the rear brakes are little different - 2" wide shoes, forget the length of them
Van,
I tend to purposely avoid X brand forums because when they find out what you're really doing(i.e. using their parts on a "hotrod"), they treat you like you got an STD.......
Later,
Went rootin' through my stash and found that I had indeed kept the proportioning valve from the Mopar donor my IFS came from.
We established a long time ago that the old pig 84 5th ave actually weighs the same if not more than the F100 and since I'll be using the pedal assy, the master cylinder and the entire front brakes from the 5th Ave, then basically I'll using the prop valve in it's natural home....
The only things different in the entire application are;
-the weight distribution is little more nose heavy with the truck
-the rear brakes are little different - 2" wide shoes, forget the length of them
Van,
I tend to purposely avoid X brand forums because when they find out what you're really doing(i.e. using their parts on a "hotrod"), they treat you like you got an STD.......
Later,
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Washougal, Washington
You must be gettin' oldtimers cause you sent the same message twice.
Hey, watch who you're callin' an ol' pig, that sow makes pretty good bacon...
You're right about x brand forums, though most everyone is resigned to Volares giving it up for older cars and trucks. "STD," wasn't that a Ford model?
--van
Hey, watch who you're callin' an ol' pig, that sow makes pretty good bacon...
You're right about x brand forums, though most everyone is resigned to Volares giving it up for older cars and trucks. "STD," wasn't that a Ford model?
--van
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Ferg,
I dug up this old thread because I'm getting to the point where I'm trying to get my brakes in working order. I finally got all the air bled out and but they still don't seem right. I'm using an 87 Chrysler MC and booster, combination valve, Chrysler front and Chrysler rear just like they came out of the car. The pedal seems to go down too far and then it gets hard near the bottom of the travel. I may need to adjust the rears up more but I thought I had them about right when I first put it together. Any words of advice?
I know you have the same system in your truck so how did this brake system work out for you?
Vern
I dug up this old thread because I'm getting to the point where I'm trying to get my brakes in working order. I finally got all the air bled out and but they still don't seem right. I'm using an 87 Chrysler MC and booster, combination valve, Chrysler front and Chrysler rear just like they came out of the car. The pedal seems to go down too far and then it gets hard near the bottom of the travel. I may need to adjust the rears up more but I thought I had them about right when I first put it together. Any words of advice?
I know you have the same system in your truck so how did this brake system work out for you?
Vern
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Posting Guru
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Vern,
I am indeed using the same mstr, front brakes and prop. valve as yourself but I'm at least a year behind you in having the brakes functioning.
Are you sure you got all the air out when you bench bled the mstr. Those air bubbles can be aweful persitant...Although if I'm not mistaken a faulty booster can have the same symptoms as you describe.
sorry, not much help......
I am indeed using the same mstr, front brakes and prop. valve as yourself but I'm at least a year behind you in having the brakes functioning.
Are you sure you got all the air out when you bench bled the mstr. Those air bubbles can be aweful persitant...Although if I'm not mistaken a faulty booster can have the same symptoms as you describe.
sorry, not much help......
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Ferg,
The booster should be okay. I drove the car it came out of before I pirated it for parts. The brakes had just been worked on recently (rotors and drums turned, new pads and linings) by the PO and were working well then. Of course, it has been sitting now for about 3 years but I wouldn't think that being idle would hurt it. I used a mighty-vac to get all the air out of the system (had to go around the truck three times to get it all out) and was careful to bench bleed the MC before installation. The only thing I've done differently from the stock setup is to use Dot 5 fluid which I have done before so I'm familiar with that. I'll tinker with it today and see if I can improve the pedal. This is my first time around with power brakes so the booster stuff is new new to me. I've always had manual brakes before.
If anyone else is using a Chrysler brake set-up, I'd be interested in how yours is working...
Vern
The booster should be okay. I drove the car it came out of before I pirated it for parts. The brakes had just been worked on recently (rotors and drums turned, new pads and linings) by the PO and were working well then. Of course, it has been sitting now for about 3 years but I wouldn't think that being idle would hurt it. I used a mighty-vac to get all the air out of the system (had to go around the truck three times to get it all out) and was careful to bench bleed the MC before installation. The only thing I've done differently from the stock setup is to use Dot 5 fluid which I have done before so I'm familiar with that. I'll tinker with it today and see if I can improve the pedal. This is my first time around with power brakes so the booster stuff is new new to me. I've always had manual brakes before.
If anyone else is using a Chrysler brake set-up, I'd be interested in how yours is working...
Vern
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 628
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From: High Park, Toronto
Vern
This may not be helpful because I'm using a Mustang II MC and booster with my Volare and 8.8 rear end but I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the power booster after much frigging around. Fellow up here on the F100 Canada board had a similar problem recently as well. I don't think the Power Boosters like to sit idle in my experience
GW
This may not be helpful because I'm using a Mustang II MC and booster with my Volare and 8.8 rear end but I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the power booster after much frigging around. Fellow up here on the F100 Canada board had a similar problem recently as well. I don't think the Power Boosters like to sit idle in my experience
GW
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by mt54
I'm not sure but I would think you could just test it by pulling a vacume on it and see if it holds.
Mike
Mike
Vern
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 628
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From: High Park, Toronto
Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
I can do that with my mighty-vac. Any idea about how much vacuum is safe to put on it? The way my luck is going I'll blow the diaphram with the vacuum pump...
Vern
Vern
Vern 
I think he meant the engine vacuum!
In my case, I couldnt get the brakes to release, there was a very soft pedal but the brakes [front claipers anyway] were on all the time. For me it was a process of elimination, swapped out 2 rebuilt MC's, bleed the lines +++ times and chatted on here til the cows came home.
Finally, swapped out what was supposed to have been a good rebuilt vacuum power booster [that had sat for ?? years, at least 5] and viola, Bob's your uncle, I was good to STOP 'n GO!
GW