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Dusted or not???

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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 12:59 AM
  #1  
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Dusted or not???

Hello All,

I was getting ready to do the 6637 mod and pulled off my air tube. I wanted to see if there was any dirt in there and lo and behold! Oily, gritty dirt. Could someone take a look at my turbo and tell me if there is anything they see that I should worry about. I have looked through the forums, but I figure someone would be better able to tell with a picture. It is an '02 F350. Thanks for any and all help...Actually, I just realized I cannot post attachments. I was just out working on her...
Pics are now under gallery...
 

Last edited by NoAZ'68; Oct 16, 2005 at 01:04 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 08:11 AM
  #2  
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its hard to tell. i would need a better picture to tell. there is some curve to the blades, but im not sure, as it is so far away. get a 8mm wrench, remove the CCV plastic tube from the mount on the engine, and remove that last boot. then get a close up picture of all the blades, and then a closer one of just one blade if possible.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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What Strokin_it said. Need a closer shot to say for sure, but from what I can see, it's taken a beating.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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Just run your finger nail down the turbo blades. You'll feel the pitting if its their. Look close enough and you may be able to see the pitting on the edges of the wheel.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:36 AM
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I will get more pictures. I am wondering what my next course of action is, if it is. How hard/long does it take to do a compression test on one of these things. I am fairly mechanically savvy, so I am only worried about the time issue. Do I have any recourse as far as factory warranty w/ 80K on the truck? I have less than 1k miles on it since I bought it, do I take it back to the dealer? Anyone know any good diesel mechanics in Flagstaff? Uggggghhhh...Thanks for the replies...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 03:53 PM
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Take a look at the air cleaner itself. Does it have broken tabs or something preventing the complete seal around the filter? If so, I'd consider taking it back. Does the truck pull strong?

Take the air filter ducting off all the way to the turbo and get a good pic showing the close-up of the blades and we can help determine the severity...
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:50 AM
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FWIW, here is a pic of my early 99 wheel with about 150k of K and N filtering. I don't think it's bad, but I haven't seen many either. I was very meticulous when it came to making sure it seated well.



 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I have not been able to get out to work on the truck as it has been raining here. It may snow tonight, I am looking forward to seeing. I digress. The truck seems to pull pretty strong, I think as strong as any I drove except for a 6.0L. There is only a small puff of whitish smoke in the early a.m. after it has sat at least overnight, and not every morning. I can hear the whine of the turbo pretty well. Oil pressure climbs quickly, does not fluctuate, and the truck doesn't smoke. I am hoping to do the 6637 tonight, then I will get a better picture of the turbo. It does look like the vanes are very close to the sides, and none seem to be bent or pitted. I think I may be past the point of return, so I am hoping for the best. I will post pictures soon. Once again thanks to all...
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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The reason that your oil pressure doesn't fluctuate is that the sender is just a standard oil pressure switch, and when it comes on it simply allows the guage to go to a pre-biased position. In reality, your guage is just a fancier "idiot light".

Ford's been doing this since at least the '80's.

Another "Better Idea"! But I digress......

Pop
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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SpringerPop,

Thanks for the info. One of my planned upgrades is an oil pressure gauge. I learned about these fancy idiot gauges/lights from a 1968 BMW 2002. I learned how they don't tell you what you need to know about oil pressure...
 
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:35 AM
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no az68,

Grab the turbo wheel and try to push it in line with the shaft, if you have 0 to nearly 0 end play and the blade is not chipped or missing parts of the blades you'll be OK! The turbo almost never gets damaged more than a polishing of the blades if a lot of dirt gets thru the intake system, what you need to be concerned with is the cylinder ring seal. Get a compression test one each cylinder done, if they are OK you're probably fine. Watch oil consumption, if it's not burniong oil just run her. If the compression is ok then the valve guides etc will usually be fine too!

Get an AFE Pro Guard 7 intake system and get rid of the "leaker" you have now and enjoy the truck. Call us if you have any questions on the AFE, it is all we will sell as it's the only system that will stop the dirt but flow the air.

Mark @ DPPI
 
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkDPP
Get an AFE Pro Guard 7 intake system and get rid of the "leaker" you have now and enjoy the truck. Call us if you have any questions on the AFE, it is all we will sell as it's the only system that will stop the dirt but flow the air.

Mark @ DPPI

What Mark said....

I got one from DPPI and I haven't had a problem with dirt, dust, or anything getting past that Pro Guard 7 filter. It's worth spending the extra cash for the intake and the filter. You get way more power and better filtration.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 12:57 PM
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Here is my old turbo and its beat to heck. I pulled this thing off at 180K the truck uses NO notice able oil between Changes.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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I think I saw a picture of that one in some of my searches. Mine isn't as bad. I will be working on it in a couple of hours, so I can snap some pics then. Thanks for the replies...
 
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 01:58 AM
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Talking Intake

This is an intresting thread. I just picked my X up from Ford for a warranty oil leak. They were looking at all the boots and tubes. I got scoalded for some mods I have done. One is the breather on the left valve cover. This lets crank case vapor and oily crap into the turbo and intercooler, aftercooler or air charge cooler. The Mechanic said the turbo needed the extra oil. Yeah right, the oil goes between the impellers, not into them. I removed the intake tubes and worked the plastic connector over in the middle. I cut off flush, the little scoop inside and filled the hole with epoxy.I turned the breather houseing around leaveing the elbow on then connecting more 3/4 hose following the harness in the frame rail. I then switched over to steel 3/4 tube going to the back of the trans and forming it under the crossmember and welded a fitting so the tube is removable into the exhaust at a 45 degree angle. This is an old drag racer trick called panvac. You can here the difference!! A gas engine sees about 15hp from this. I'm not sold on these aftermarket intake tubes either. I built a zoodad intake but on steroids.I have a large scoop duct in the grill. I sealed the system all the way to the K&N filter. I also inlarged the opening into the filter box. At 35mph i have 1lb preassure in the box. Huge difference because now the turbo doesn't have to suck so hard and the air is cool. I never trip the vacume gauge on the air now. I just finished my new tubes from the air box to turbo. I can't wait for the paint to dry. I have rubber ends and a straight 4" tube to the turbo. I have to much time on my hands.And I have hands that can't keep still. I think they call it excessive-compulsive.
 
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