Questions!
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Questions!
I have a few questions on my 78
1 How do I get my gauge light to be all white?
2 I put a new throw out bearing when I changed the cluch about 6 months ago. The bearing is making a LITTLE noise but it comes and goes when I press the clutch. AM I on barrowed time? A friend said no they all make noise to some degree most are quiet and mine is to, I can BARELY hear the Throw out bearing when the clutch is pressed I have the radio off and CB off and ear to the floor. Others don't hear it (Paranoid).
3. it has a remaned carb abou 1 yr old/new filter. It has be a PAIN to start sense it cooled 20* I have no choke. It usually fires on the 1-2 turn overs now it is like 5-6. It has new air filter, plugs,wires,cap rotor. It thier a certain start sequence that works like pump gas 3 time and continue pumping while turning the key to get it started quicker?
3. It seems like when a retard the timing I get more torque and it turn over less to start, but get worse gas milage and is considerabley slower. What is a happy medium timing * for a 78 300 I6? How about a good idel RPM? Maybe 900rpm at operating temp.
I kinda want to retain the clutch engaugement torque for timing though.
Thanks
Dustin
1 How do I get my gauge light to be all white?
2 I put a new throw out bearing when I changed the cluch about 6 months ago. The bearing is making a LITTLE noise but it comes and goes when I press the clutch. AM I on barrowed time? A friend said no they all make noise to some degree most are quiet and mine is to, I can BARELY hear the Throw out bearing when the clutch is pressed I have the radio off and CB off and ear to the floor. Others don't hear it (Paranoid).
3. it has a remaned carb abou 1 yr old/new filter. It has be a PAIN to start sense it cooled 20* I have no choke. It usually fires on the 1-2 turn overs now it is like 5-6. It has new air filter, plugs,wires,cap rotor. It thier a certain start sequence that works like pump gas 3 time and continue pumping while turning the key to get it started quicker?
3. It seems like when a retard the timing I get more torque and it turn over less to start, but get worse gas milage and is considerabley slower. What is a happy medium timing * for a 78 300 I6? How about a good idel RPM? Maybe 900rpm at operating temp.
I kinda want to retain the clutch engaugement torque for timing though.
Thanks
Dustin
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 57
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From: Iowa
Automatic Choke
I can help a little:
#3 You say you have no choke but does that mean that you have no choke lever/ ****? You probably have an automatic choke.
To set the automatic choke, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release. There you go the choke is now set!
Now just turn the key and start. You will notice that the engine will idle faster when the choke is on this is normal. If you look at your Carburetor your automatic choke should look something like the one in this picture. http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_choke_01.jpg I don't know which carb you have but there should deffinatle be a choke of some kind on it.
I hope this helps you.
#3 You say you have no choke but does that mean that you have no choke lever/ ****? You probably have an automatic choke.
To set the automatic choke, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release. There you go the choke is now set!
Now just turn the key and start. You will notice that the engine will idle faster when the choke is on this is normal. If you look at your Carburetor your automatic choke should look something like the one in this picture. http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_choke_01.jpg I don't know which carb you have but there should deffinatle be a choke of some kind on it. I hope this helps you.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
First off Dustin my experience suggests it would be easier & better for all if you posted each topic in a seperate thread 
1) The dash lights can be made brighter by removing the BLUE lenses that are attached to the cluster back.
You have to remove the cluster to do this.
The first #3 )
No there isn't.... every engine has its own personality and the owner needs to learn theirs
Normally after sitting a while carbs lose the fuel in them from evaporation.
second #3) . Timing should first be done by timing light (to get it close) then by ear/vacuum gauge to have it run at its best.
Engine & parts wearing will change the timing ...over time
1) The dash lights can be made brighter by removing the BLUE lenses that are attached to the cluster back.
You have to remove the cluster to do this.
The first #3 )
No there isn't.... every engine has its own personality and the owner needs to learn theirs
Normally after sitting a while carbs lose the fuel in them from evaporation.
second #3) . Timing should first be done by timing light (to get it close) then by ear/vacuum gauge to have it run at its best.
Engine & parts wearing will change the timing ...over time
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
Usually one or two pumps and then it should start right up, but if runs rough, turn off the truck pump one or two times again and then start again and it should run alot better.(usually the turn off thing is only needed if the truck hasn't been started in a while, or it's real cold out side.)
But to make the dash lights white, take apart the gauge cluster(2 bolts holding speedo in, and 4 or so blots holding the two peices of the cluster together and there should be 2 blueish green covers, take them off and put everything back together and you should be ready to go.
But to make the dash lights white, take apart the gauge cluster(2 bolts holding speedo in, and 4 or so blots holding the two peices of the cluster together and there should be 2 blueish green covers, take them off and put everything back together and you should be ready to go.
Last edited by MBBFord; Oct 17, 2005 at 06:12 PM.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: near sacramento
for easieness of starting (#3) i had a problem and couldn't get it to start and my coil tested with kinda high ohms. so i replaced it. that hotter spark helped it start like crazy. (that wasnt the problem but it was sure nice having a hotters spark) it runs much smother and slightly better milage, you might check that.
dan
dan
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
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From: CA
You said that you replaced the carb and haven't had the time (or nerves) to wire up the automatic choke. So I assume that the choke butterfly is there? This offers two possibilities; First, you can get a manual choke cable kit from most any parts house for a few bucks. They are easy to install. Second, is the electric choke housing on the carb? It is a round, black, plastic housing. If it's there, wiring it is simple. What kind of carb is this?
Last edited by Polkat; Oct 18, 2005 at 04:23 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: CA
it's just a matter of running a 12 volt line to the choke terminal. It should be wired to a source that is available ONLY when the ingition is on (otherwise the choke will stay open all the time). The positive side of the coil is favored by some, as in older vehicles it's the first point where voltage reaches the ignition system after the key is turned. Once wired but off, and with the engine cold, the choke butterfly should be adjusted so it is slightly open. I don't remember the measurement, but someone here will tell you.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
This is sure to start a discussion but AFAIK the proper wiring place is a terminal on the back of the alternator. When I went to do mine I was able to track down a factory wire and then I only need to add 6 inches of wire to get to the connector that was already in the wiring harness. I love these old trucks they are so easy to work on!
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Shane269
I can help a little:
#3 You say you have no choke but does that mean that you have no choke lever/ ****? You probably have an automatic choke.
To set the automatic choke, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release. There you go the choke is now set! Now just turn the key and start. You will notice that the engine will idle faster when the choke is on this is normal. If you look at your Carburetor your automatic choke should look something like the one in this picture. http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_choke_01.jpg I don't know which carb you have but there should deffinatle be a choke of some kind on it.
I hope this helps you.
#3 You say you have no choke but does that mean that you have no choke lever/ ****? You probably have an automatic choke.
To set the automatic choke, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release. There you go the choke is now set!
Now just turn the key and start. You will notice that the engine will idle faster when the choke is on this is normal. If you look at your Carburetor your automatic choke should look something like the one in this picture. http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_choke_01.jpg I don't know which carb you have but there should deffinatle be a choke of some kind on it. I hope this helps you.
Sorry, to bring up an old post, but I've been searching and reading all day. Lots of good info here, but still a little confused on a few things. In your picture, #2 is a pull through that should be hooked to vacuum, yes? Can I just run it off manifold vacuum?
Also, #3 appears to be the power lead for the electric choke, yes? If so, is it just a 12 volt source?
Both of these things are disconnected on mine, and there was no hose leading to/from #2, and no wire leading to/from #3...
thanks...