Duraspark module died.
Got there and someone mentioned my white shirt and how it would get dirty if I worked in it. I snidely replied I didn't plan on working today. Oops. Went out to the truck to go home and it wouldn't start. Getting gas, motor turning, rotor turning, NO Fire. Hmmmmmm. Put a volt meter on it have voltage at coil but coil not firing. Called my wife and went to get an ignition module. Slapped it in while my wife left her car running. Jumped into the truck and it hit on the first rev. I was stoked. Now I need to go get another one of those modules to keep under the seat. They had 2 choices $23 or $75. Since I didn't know for sure it was the box I got the cheap one.
I have had many 73-79s. I've had some dura sparks go bad on me. The ignition system has always worked well when it worked. I find the system to be dependable and adequate for street use and even some mild track work. The after market system don't grow on trees and don't work much better for day to day use. If I loose a MSD, it will cost me $750 bucks to replace it. Does that make sense in an old pickup?
KingFisher
>I have had many 73-79s. I've had some dura sparks go bad on
>me. The ignition system has always worked well when it
>worked. I find the system to be dependable and adequate for
>street use and even some mild track work. The after market
>system don't grow on trees and don't work much better for
>day to day use. If I loose a MSD, it will cost me $750 bucks
>to replace it. Does that make sense in an old pickup?
>KingFisher
You paid $750 for your MSD
i only paid $175 for mine?Wiz
BOB
>ignition module as I presently am? I am waiting to afford
>myself a Mallory Hyfire, but for now I tossed the stock
>ignition module and just have the coil connected to 12 volts
>(with key on of course) through a ballast.
>
>BOB
how could that be possible? it runs? i must be missing something
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Was the ignition module that failed an OEM unit or aftermarket? The aftermarket units seem to have a much higher failure rate. The key to those units or any electronics under the hood is keeping them cool. Ford has a TSB out that calls for putting 1/4" high spacers under the module to allow air flow on the back side to enhance cooling. Look on ebay, every once in a while you will see a genuine OEM Motorcraft ignition module come up for auction. Most sellers on ebay claim OEM but they are aftermarket units.
Another source of good modules is the junkyard. Again look for motorcraft modules then take them to a parts store that has a tester to see if it is good.
An engine won't run without some sort of current interrupter [either points or a module] to fire the coil. The points or ignition module is on the ground side of the coil.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Mine is gone. Engine starts and runs fine.
12 volts hot when key on connected to Mallory coil ballast connected to Mallory coil connected to Mallory Unilite distributor.
Bob
The Mallory just has it internal to the distributor, like electronic "points".
The Mallory and a stock distributor are different animals, apples to oranges comparison, different configuration.
There are many different types of ignition systems. The Davis DUI has everything mounted in the distributor. All you have to do with them is run +12 hot off the ignition switch, no ballast resistor.
A stock OEM type ignition system will frequently have a "resistor wire" built into the wiring harness for their ballast resistor. The ballast resistor function can also be performed in the module, depends upon the system.
There have been some recent dyno tests that show the OEM systems often outperform the aftermarket ignition systems up to ~6000 rpm. In a stock type daily driver you don't see that kind of rpm's.
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To get back to 76's problem...
Stick with the OEM Duraspark II (blue grommet) and distributor system for a daily driver, you can get parts anywhere. Put 1/4" spacers under the unit like Ford suggests. Keep your electronics cool, heat is their worst enemy.




