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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

squealing clutch...

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Old Oct 14, 2005 | 07:04 PM
  #16  
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
4 quarts....
 
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 12:01 AM
  #17  
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thanks BBJ...theres no owners manual in the truck....i went out and tried the clutch pedel press test. with it running, it will squeal a bit, then when i give the pedal i slight pressure, the noise goes away. i didn't get a chance to idle it along in 1st or second, too many cars in the driveway to get out (family in this weekend). but i'll give it a try tomorrow for sure. i wonder why my shop put heavy weight stuff in there....oh well.

how hard is it to replace the throwout bearing \besdies having to pull the tranny? and teh probably leaking problem in the rear of the tranny, i'm taking an uneducated guess that its not related to the t/o bearing. is there maybe a rear seal that needs to be replaced as well? and if ya think so, is that something i can attempt myself as well? i'd rather not put the truck back in the shop....i'm pretty sure i could get one of the guys from Fire School to come by and help me outsometime.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 12:22 AM
  #18  
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Red,
I wouldn't worry about the squeel. I'm willing to bet the farm its a throwout bearing. You said the clutch is fairly new? When I put my new luk clutch in, the t/o bearing squeeled right away. And there is two ways to fix it. One, keep taking the tranny in and out until you get a t/o bearing that doesnt' squeel. Or shim the clutch pedal rest. The latter is what I did on my truck. That was 45k miles ago. Now you do have to test your shims to get it just right. I would shim, drive it. It would slip, grind shim, drive it. Etc. Etc. Basicly all I did was take out that initial slack you feel when you hit the pedal. It took getting used to, but I didn't care. The way I look at it, if I have to pull the tranny, something better be broke. Anyway, I had to do this on every truck I put a clutch in that I owned. (all fords) I never had any probems with anyone else's that I helped with or did. Just mine. So I shimmed all the clutch pedal rest. I used hard plastic pucks, like mini hockey pucks. That way I could grind them to get it right. And stuck them to the little bumper pad that the clutch pedal arm rest on. Moving on, you can pull the driveshaft and replace the tail shaft seal on your tranny. Pull the d/shaft and yoke on the rear of the tranny. Replace the seal like you would a wheel seal. And the green fluid in your tranny shouldn't be gear oil. Mine was green too when I changed it for the first time. But it WAS NOT gear oil. Some kind of ford synthetic. But definatly replace it with a syn. ATF. I run amzoil and love it. And it only takes 4 quarts. Clutch pedal shim, Tail shaft seal, and 4 quarts of Amzoil ATF. Probem solved......Hopefully. And brother, if you can put stacks on these fine looking trucks we drive, you can definatly do all the above.

RubberDuck
 
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 12:32 AM
  #19  
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hey, thanks a million RubberDuck. i'll give that shim a try. simply shim it on the stopper untill it doesn't squeal anymore? should i go to an IH dealer for the tail shaft seal or somewhere else? pulling the driveshaft is going to be a new experiance for me. i've never done a wheel seal either. gonna be one of those, lay under the truck working with a book of instructions kinda deal. my dad might know a little about the d/s too, i'll ask him tomorrow.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:01 AM
  #20  
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That's the idea with the shim. But if the noise goes away, but the cluch slips.....either live with it, or pull the tranny are your only options. But I'm fairly certain it will work for you. You don't have to pull the tail shaft, just the yoke. For the d/shaft, pull the 4 torx bolts on the ujoint straps. Then the two 5/8 (or the metric equivilent) bolts that hold the carrier bearing. (the thing that holds the middle of the d/shaft up.) You don't have to take it off the rear axle. Just lay it aside and make sure you don't let the ujoint caps fall off. (the two caps you took the straps off of.) I usually just tape them on with electrical tape around the whole ujoint. From cap to cap to cap to cap. Just one big piece. Then take off the big nut in the middle of the yoke on the tranny and it will just slide out. Next you can pry the seal out with a screw driver. Just tap the new one in using a circle patter of tapping until the seal is seated with a hammer. Be easy though, you don't want to damage it. Wet the seal with some ATF and slide the yoke back in. Run the big nut down tight. It doesn't have pre load or anything like that. Just crank it down. Make sure you index the ujoint in the yoke the way it came out. Mark it before you take it out. That should get you through it. Hope that helps brother.

RubberDuck
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #21  
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ok.....heres an update. i took it for a drive tonight, hadn't done anyhitng to it yet. i payed close attention to noises....tonight, the squeel mostly came around when i would put the clutch in at a quicker pace than slow. i also noticed that it sounded like a spinning that slowed down. like ah.... squee-e-e-e-ee-ee-ee-eeee-eee-eee-ee....like....putting a washer on a bolt, holding the bolt head down, and spinning the washer around the bolt. that speed, but squeaking....ALSO, noticed that there is a sound in the clutch itself i'm guessing, like a spinning-scuffing sound. mostly only hear it when moving slow with a little gas. the clutch is less than 2 years old. i'm tryin to think back and think that i got it replaced in june of 04. almsot positive thats when it was. i'm gonna go out and clean off the back of the tranny where it leaked and see how much its leaking....
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 02:29 AM
  #22  
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k redstroker and everyone else here, mines been squealing since i got it, push the clutch in alittle and it quits, ive already shimed the clutch pedal down and at first the noise quit now its come back again, it squeals sitting idling or even running down the road, but if u push the pedal down just a bit it quits, clutch was suppose to be replaced before i bought it as with the Throw out bearing too but dont think it was replaced, i know u got to drop the tranny to put the T/O bearing in but how hard is it to do for someone that hasnt dropped a tranny before, the clutch pedal is stiff like its suppose to be after the play in the pedal before i shimmed it down then now its doing it again cant shim it down anymore it would put it below where the brake pedal sits right now lol, another thing Redstroker, think u could get me some stacks down around where ur at, ill pay the shipping and anything else, dont want to pay the price for new ones or muffler shop costs and junk yards just send me to buy new ones no doubt, lol but let me know. ive actually back to liking my truck except want stacks either 5" or bigger though nothing less than 4 foot though lol , my strait pipe with two 6" tips sound good but to me it sounds more like a dodge 12V lol , just need to get a true 3" downpipe soon and maybe a chip in this beast cant miss it though with all my lights and antennas on it lol, but just thought id write on this subject a bit thanks Lance
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 05:52 AM
  #23  
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Yeah, i was gonna try the shimming, but decided to bit e the bullet and take it intot he shop. 5 hours of labor later it was fixed with a new T/O bearing all is is quiet. couldn't tell ya on teh labor for pulling a tranny as i've neer done it either. i found my 2 stacks at a big-rig boneyard. they even pulled them off the old truckfor me. i can't remember the name of the place but it was off the New Laredo higway and loop 410 in San Antonio.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 09:00 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RedStroker6
Yeah, i was gonna try the shimming, but decided to bit e the bullet and take it intot he shop. 5 hours of labor later it was fixed with a new T/O bearing all is is quiet. couldn't tell ya on teh labor for pulling a tranny as i've neer done it either. i found my 2 stacks at a big-rig boneyard. they even pulled them off the old truckfor me. i can't remember the name of the place but it was off the New Laredo higway and loop 410 in San Antonio.
Good decision.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 12:36 AM
  #25  
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Texas, you can buy the stacks you want on ebay for about $130 shipped. The hard part is all the stuff to hook them up, and mount them. Go to ebay, ebay motors, parts and accessorys, search powestroke stacks, or chrome stacks. What are you looking to spend?

RubberDuck
 
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 02:04 AM
  #26  
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Rubberduck i think i found what i was looking for on blackcloud's site going to go with the 6" bull hauler stacks as soon as i get the money and found a two piece down pipe for 100 bucks thats 3 inch like i need going to get it next payday, hopefully get the stacks with my xmas bonus so to make my truck look alot better and sound better than what it is now though hopefully, but before i looked on blackcloud's site last nite i was thinking of getting two 5 foot by 5" or 6" turn out stacks and mounting them to square tubing in the bottom of the bed but going to check some places saturday hopefully and maybe get some stacks for now dont know yet until saturday gets here lol thanks yall Lance
 
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