Converter shudder
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
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the fluid was darker than normal due to the fact that the ford garage only changed 5/14 quarts when they dropped the pan. (Theiving crooks - they knew not changing ALL the fluid would be pointless - but were happy to charge me $300 to do a half-a$$ job anyway.) Who knows how old the orignial fluid was when I bought the truck. The filter was ok, other than the color of the fluid.
PS- just noticed that when they did my fuel pump at the ford garage, they CUT my aftermaket reese hitch with a grinder where it bolts to the frame so that they could drop the tank without having to unbolt it. They must have loosened it too because it is also crooked besides being all hacked up!
I swear, I will never, ever buy anything from or go back to this dealership...
PS- just noticed that when they did my fuel pump at the ford garage, they CUT my aftermaket reese hitch with a grinder where it bolts to the frame so that they could drop the tank without having to unbolt it. They must have loosened it too because it is also crooked besides being all hacked up!
I swear, I will never, ever buy anything from or go back to this dealership...
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12
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From: Ottawa Ontario Canada
I hear you ! I bought a 96 ranger last year and have had to replace the oil pan, diff. cover , rear brake line , fuel tank strapps, wheel bearings all around , exhaust manifold,
etc. etc. If i didnt know how to do things myself this bitch would have cost me 4 times what i paid for it in the first year ! " Ford wanted 400.00 for the two lousy tank strapps and 30.00 each for the manifold studs !!! etc. etc ??? Whats a guy supposed to do with this kind of crap ! This stuff is beyond screwing the do it yourself guy ; its gotten to a point where the dealer parts dept. is a joke ! I was a dealership parts guy & service guy before and i hate to see what its all become in the last 30 years . If charging someone 50.00 bucks for a 5.00 part is what is considered Ford policy , then i will switch to another manufacturer . The last time i owned a Ford was in 1974 and 2005 will be the last time i ever own another .
After all this , would any of you guys feel any different ??
etc. etc. If i didnt know how to do things myself this bitch would have cost me 4 times what i paid for it in the first year ! " Ford wanted 400.00 for the two lousy tank strapps and 30.00 each for the manifold studs !!! etc. etc ??? Whats a guy supposed to do with this kind of crap ! This stuff is beyond screwing the do it yourself guy ; its gotten to a point where the dealer parts dept. is a joke ! I was a dealership parts guy & service guy before and i hate to see what its all become in the last 30 years . If charging someone 50.00 bucks for a 5.00 part is what is considered Ford policy , then i will switch to another manufacturer . The last time i owned a Ford was in 1974 and 2005 will be the last time i ever own another .
After all this , would any of you guys feel any different ??
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: East Tenn.
I've been reading these shudder threads with a lot of interest because my 83 F100, 302 has the same problem. Pretty bad shuddering. At first I swore it was the rear end because I had a scored spider gear and shaft that I had to replace a few monthes ago. Then I started reading about the lockup torque converter which makes a lot of sense.
Well, the other day a co-worker mentioned that my exhaust smelled kinda rich. So I turned in the needle valves a half turn. Guess what? It cleared up the shuddering by about 80%. There's just an ever so slight amount there now. I guess the rich mixture was flooding the engine causing the shuddering.
Just goes to show that everything else has to be right to properly diagnose a problem.
Reminds me of a car once that ran real bad. They couldn't figure it out. A mechanic had his foot propped on the tow ball and problem went away. The tow ball was loose and rattling around. The computer picked up the rattling and adjusted the motor.
Well, the other day a co-worker mentioned that my exhaust smelled kinda rich. So I turned in the needle valves a half turn. Guess what? It cleared up the shuddering by about 80%. There's just an ever so slight amount there now. I guess the rich mixture was flooding the engine causing the shuddering.
Just goes to show that everything else has to be right to properly diagnose a problem.
Reminds me of a car once that ran real bad. They couldn't figure it out. A mechanic had his foot propped on the tow ball and problem went away. The tow ball was loose and rattling around. The computer picked up the rattling and adjusted the motor.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by fivestring63
I've been reading these shudder threads with a lot of interest because my 83 F100, 302 has the same problem. Pretty bad shuddering. At first I swore it was the rear end because I had a scored spider gear and shaft that I had to replace a few monthes ago. Then I started reading about the lockup torque converter which makes a lot of sense.
Well, the other day a co-worker mentioned that my exhaust smelled kinda rich. So I turned in the needle valves a half turn. Guess what? It cleared up the shuddering by about 80%. There's just an ever so slight amount there now. I guess the rich mixture was flooding the engine causing the shuddering.
Just goes to show that everything else has to be right to properly diagnose a problem.
Reminds me of a car once that ran real bad. They couldn't figure it out. A mechanic had his foot propped on the tow ball and problem went away. The tow ball was loose and rattling around. The computer picked up the rattling and adjusted the motor.
Well, the other day a co-worker mentioned that my exhaust smelled kinda rich. So I turned in the needle valves a half turn. Guess what? It cleared up the shuddering by about 80%. There's just an ever so slight amount there now. I guess the rich mixture was flooding the engine causing the shuddering.
Just goes to show that everything else has to be right to properly diagnose a problem.
Reminds me of a car once that ran real bad. They couldn't figure it out. A mechanic had his foot propped on the tow ball and problem went away. The tow ball was loose and rattling around. The computer picked up the rattling and adjusted the motor.
Note: The Needle Screws only have an effect while idling, if it was shuddering during idling you may have solved your problem. They are out of the circuit as soon as you put your foot on the accelerator pedal.
More than likely you have a bad EGR Valve or a choke pull off diaphragm.
You do not have a clutch type lockup torque converter in 1983, also you have an AOD if it is an Auto.
Last edited by subford; Nov 3, 2005 at 07:20 AM.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: East Tenn.
<<Note: The Needle Screws only have an effect while idling, if it was shuddering during idling you may have solved your problem. They are out of the circuit as soon as you put your foot on the accelerator pedal.
More than likely you have a bad EGR Valve or a choke pull off diaphragm.
You do not have a clutch type lockup torque converter in 1983, also you have an AOD if it is an Auto.>>:
This is interesting now. I was getting the worst part of the shudder going up a long hill or on a level stretch of road with minimum accelerator and all of that just disappeared after the adjustment.
I took the egr out about 5-6 monthes ago and gave it a good cleaning. Maybe it dirtied up again. As far as I can tell the choke diaphragm works properly.
Yes it is an AOD. 14 bolt. What years was the lockup converters in?
More than likely you have a bad EGR Valve or a choke pull off diaphragm.
You do not have a clutch type lockup torque converter in 1983, also you have an AOD if it is an Auto.>>:
This is interesting now. I was getting the worst part of the shudder going up a long hill or on a level stretch of road with minimum accelerator and all of that just disappeared after the adjustment.
I took the egr out about 5-6 monthes ago and gave it a good cleaning. Maybe it dirtied up again. As far as I can tell the choke diaphragm works properly.
Yes it is an AOD. 14 bolt. What years was the lockup converters in?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis USA
Hey Naustin,
Just bought '96 F150 XLT Supercab SB in Tulsa, OK on way back
from AZ---it has almost the exact shudder problem you described
earlier. Checked fluid before I bought it and it was very clean but
got impression that previous owner never changed it. The rear seal
does leak, though. Going to drain pan & convertor and see what
happens... Is yours still doing okay ? JR
Just bought '96 F150 XLT Supercab SB in Tulsa, OK on way back
from AZ---it has almost the exact shudder problem you described
earlier. Checked fluid before I bought it and it was very clean but
got impression that previous owner never changed it. The rear seal
does leak, though. Going to drain pan & convertor and see what
happens... Is yours still doing okay ? JR
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Mine does this. What might be the cause? This is the first and only post i've found anywhere with these two symptoms.
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