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Try this one on for size... About two weeks ago I was trailering three horses in the back of my 4 horse trailer. The job was no real strain on my '79 F-350 with it's massive 460 of course. I was dropping off one horse at a barn after a fairly decient grade climb. I let my engine idle for about 10 minutes before shutting it off. We unloaded the horse and about 15 minutes later I started the pickup back up with ease and began to slowly move down the gravel road. Very strong fumes of fuel circulated through the cab and my rig wouldn't hold an idle so I jumped out... popped the hood... and closed it again as soon as I saw fuel streaming out of the filter all over my hot engine. I don't think my fire extinguisher would have been much help there. I run a hard fuel line from my mechanical fuel pump followed by about 6 inches of rubber 3/8" line to my wonderful shattered transparent NAPA fuel filter followed by about 4 more inches of rubber to the carb. There was not enough play in the line for the filter to have impacted any hard objects and I don't think my stock mechanical fuel pump could create enough pressure to cause the damage so I figure heat may have been a factor. I'm replacing the hard line and rubber with braided stainless lines and a K&N Billet Fuel filter.... I'd stick with the napa filter... but I don't have room for a large enough fire extinguisher... and Napa wouldn't even replace the part.
i use those filters, but they are fram, which are probably the same thing. I use them by the fuel tanks, away from heat. I see your point though. It sure is nice to see how dirty the fuel filter is for changing, and tank condition. But heck, what good is it when your looking at melted connecting rods after a fire
Hello Wrangler. Are you talking about those glass tube filters? I'm not sure but I think there is a warning on the package that says not to put the filter downsream of the fuel pump. I have one one my Galaxie. I have it located just before the fuel pump. It's easy to see and change the filter. I run a hard line all the way from the pump to the carb. Any rubber between the pump and the carb. is going to be your weakest link in my opinion. I don't use fuel hose on the high pressure side. Makes me feel uneasy. Glad your truck didn't become a ball-O-flame.
Picture this. I bought a 72 Mustang convertible last fall. My wife gets to drive it a few times before we put it to bed for the winter in a heated garage (they use a lot of salt here). During the winter I blast the interior out of it to refurb. I spend enough money at Mustangs Unlimited that I am now a wholesale buyer. I did NOTHING under the hood. This spring after getting it back together I go to start it for the first time. Good thing I had the hood up because the MR GASKET glass fuel filter was leaking. The PO had installed it next to the carb. The glass was not cracked the leak was between the glass and the end metal piece. Luckily I saw the stream of gas spurting over the side of the fender and stopped. I bleep-canned the filter immediately. I replaced it with a one piece clear plastic fuel filter from NAPA. This might be the same one that was leaking for you so now I may have to change over to a metal one.
I would have been majorly bummed if that LEAKING MR GASKET filter had caused a fire to burn down my car and house!!
BTW with a mechanical fuel pump the pressure should be limited to about 6 psi. Any more will overpower the needle and seat assembly in the carb.
The one I had problems with came in NAPA container... Has Profuel written on one of the chrome endcaps and is warrantied by Balkamp. There is nothing in the packaging about installing before the mechanical pump and it is rated for systems upto 10 psi which I shouldn't touch with my mechanical fuel pump.
Okay, you had me nervous on this one. I use an inline Purolator ProFuel see thru glass and chrome fuel filter (from O'Reillys) just after my tank in the frame rail and one 3 inches in front of the carb. The one in the carb is suspended and connected with rubber fuel line and the only thing in contact with it is a plug wire.
So to ease the minds of the Purolator ProFuel see thru glass and chrome fuel filters......I called Purolator, (800) 526-4250, and they advised that the glass is Pyrex so heat is not an issue. Pyrex is the same glass that used for stovetop cooking in case you didn't know. The only precaution they advise is keeping it away from any moving objects or anything that might jar it and crack the glass. And if you are really paranoid about it you can cut a piece of rubber heater hose the same length as the glass and cut a slit down it and slide it onto the filter for extra protection.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jun-02 AT 12:22 PM (EST)]The filter near your carb sounds very similar to the placement of the one I had that shattered. I'll take pictures of it and post it if you like. Mine didn't crack because it impacted something.... and it didn't crack because the pressure was too high (mechanical pump).... hmmmm wonder what caused it to crack then?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jun-02 AT 01:09 AM (EST)]Repeated heating and cooling of Pyrex makes it brittle and it will shatter after a hard jounce or jostle. Ask your wife what her thick, old Pyrex is like when it breaks.
Edit: And rember, our pyrex is much thinner than hers.
Hmmmmmm... I thought about getting one of those "wife" things.... Haven't found one that's a good match for Meller Yeller... my '79 F-350 4x4 Supercab.
>Repeated heating and cooling of Pyrex makes it brittle and
>it will shatter after a hard jounce or jostle. Ask your
>wife what her thick, old Pyrex is like when it breaks.
>
>Edit: And rember, our pyrex is much thinner than hers.
>
>dj
My wife put her pyrex cassarole dish in the oven on broil. It literally exploded. NO shock, NO jostling. There wasn't a piece left larger than 1/4 inch.
>Hmmmmmm... I thought about getting one of those "wife"
>things.... Haven't found one that's a good match for Meller
>Yeller... my '79 F-350 4x4 Supercab.
I have found that I just have to keep the two of them apart.
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