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Ok so I've lubed the gears and bushing in my wiper motor and while in there noticed the bushing could use a replacing but no one seems to have them. Anyone know where to find them?? It's a 66 1 speed motor. Thanks.
Mark
Havn't checked yet but just quickly looking at the set up it looks like it'd have to be spefic to that design..it still works fine so far but pieace of mind etc..cheaper than replacing
John, You've got my interest. I have said motor, delay and switch, but have not looked into splicing the setup into my 65's wiring. Anyone know how to do that?
Sure, I have it on my 66. I hope your wiring is unmolested, you basically unbolt everything including the wires, remove the arm off the motors and swap them for parking the wipers, and plug the replacement back where you removed the other. The twist switch shaft is longer on the delay and most folks snip it a little to make the **** fit closer to the dash.
It has been about 5 years ago that I did this, I hope I didn't forget anything.
John Wilkerson has it real close. I did this to my '66 two years ago, and it works great.
From the donor truck ('73 - '79, I've heard some '70 - '72 and some later than '79 will work but do not know) remove the wiper motor, the delay module, the switch and the wiring harnesses for it COMPLETE without cutting any wires except 3: the power supply to the harness (from the ignition switch, I believe) and the black wire and green wire going to the squirts motor.
Make sure the '66 wipers are in the "Park" position before removing the motor.
If possible, make sure the later motor is in the "Park" position before working on it. You can do this on the battery, if needed.
Remove your '66 motor. It is easier if you remove the bracket from the cab rather than the motor from the bracket. Don't cut the orignal wires; it won't hurt to hang them out of the way, and you might regret cutting them later.
Install the '66 bell crank on the later motor in the same position as it was on the earlier motor.
Reinstall the motor.
Wire the wiring harness up to a fused power supply. The ground should be a black wire with an eye to screw it to the body.
Install the switch on the original hole in the dash; as John said earlier, you may want to shorten the shaft. You can use the '66 button, too.
Wire the squirts motor up. I left the original squirt button in the upper left corner of the dash. I tease about it being the passenger eject button.
Plug the wiring harnesses together.
There should be a flexible metal hanger under your dash you can use to hold the extra original wiring and the delay module up out of the way.
You are done!