'53 ammeter connection
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From: Lewisville, NC
'53 ammeter connection
I'm getting close to finishing up the wiring for my '53 (converted to 12V). I've built a 12>6 VDC regulator to handle the guages. The hot rod wiring kit I bought has two battery leads, one to the ignition switch and one always hot.
When running the wires from the battery through the ammeter to the wiring block or ignition switch, should both wires go through the ammeter loops? Which direction should the wires go through?
-Scott
When running the wires from the battery through the ammeter to the wiring block or ignition switch, should both wires go through the ammeter loops? Which direction should the wires go through?
-Scott
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From: Minneapolis
I am not sure the answer to the first part of your question. I think it would be OK to run both, if they are both oriented properly.
Regarding wire direction, if the meter deflects the opposite of what it should (showing discharge as you raise RPMs), run it through the loop the other way.
Regarding wire direction, if the meter deflects the opposite of what it should (showing discharge as you raise RPMs), run it through the loop the other way.
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53 wiring
Can I ask you a couple of questions? I have a 53 F600 that someone put a 58 292 into. It has a 12 volt system that also was installed. Did you use an ignition resistor on your wiring system to prolong point life? According to the manuals there should be one mounted next to the coil on a 58. Also, what did you use to drop the voltage from 12 to 6 violts for everything else but starting system?
Thanks for responding!
Bob/Ohio
Thanks for responding!
Bob/Ohio
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From: Lewisville, NC
I am using a ballast resistor (really a current limiting resistor) mounted on the firewall to drop the maximum amps the ignition system can draw to save the points. I've also built a 12 volt to 6 volt regulator (plans on this site) to run the original gauges. Heater blower and light bulbs are changed out to 12V units, all wiring is new with a fuse panel, 12V gennie and regulator came out of a '65 F100. Starter is the 6 volt, but I hear that it runs fine on 12 volt. New 12 volt radio. Hopefully it all finishes going together this weekend, God and weather willing...
-Scott
-Scott
-Scott
-Scott
Last edited by Narwhal; Oct 13, 2005 at 08:35 AM.
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From: Minneapolis
There should be a balast resistor for your ignition, usually it has a ceramic case and it will get hot.
You need a voltage drop resistor (one for each gauge) in series with your fuel, temp, and oil gauges. The ammeter will be fine, as it inductively sense current direction. Unless it indicates backwards, then you will need to change the direction the wire passes the gauge. The resistors are available at auto part stores, restoration parts suppliers and ebay. I have had good luck on ebay with Autorewire; they sell the gauge resistors for $3 (Auction number: 7994197907). For your heater fan and your electric wipers (if so equipped), you will need a 1 or 1.5 Ohm resistor, which will cost about $12. Autorewire sells them too. Everything else runs on 12 Volts, so you will need to replace all of your lamps. You can run the 6 Volt ones until they burn out.
Ford used 6 Volt gauges until sometime in the late 1970's.
You need a voltage drop resistor (one for each gauge) in series with your fuel, temp, and oil gauges. The ammeter will be fine, as it inductively sense current direction. Unless it indicates backwards, then you will need to change the direction the wire passes the gauge. The resistors are available at auto part stores, restoration parts suppliers and ebay. I have had good luck on ebay with Autorewire; they sell the gauge resistors for $3 (Auction number: 7994197907). For your heater fan and your electric wipers (if so equipped), you will need a 1 or 1.5 Ohm resistor, which will cost about $12. Autorewire sells them too. Everything else runs on 12 Volts, so you will need to replace all of your lamps. You can run the 6 Volt ones until they burn out.
Ford used 6 Volt gauges until sometime in the late 1970's.
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53 wiring
Another question that I forgot to ask? What did you do about your battery polarity. The one in my 53 is hooked up 12V positive ground,,,guess that is ok?
Thanks for the previous quick responses.
Bob/Ohio
Thanks for the previous quick responses.
Bob/Ohio
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From: Lewisville, NC
Most people seem to go from the '53 stock 6V positive ground to a 12V negative ground if I'm reading the posts correctly.
-Scott
-Scott
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From: Minneapolis
I am not sure the reason, but all the conversions I've seen have been negative ground. And, I know that your 58 292 came out of a vehicle that was 12 Volt negative ground.
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From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,
You'll definitely want to switch to a negative ground! It makes everything much easier later when you want to install a radio/cd player/CB radio, fog lights, etc!
You should be able to get a rebuilt 12v starter for about $50-100 (exchange....just give them your old 6v starter!)....You'll be buying a starter for a newer late 50's early 60's 292. I paid $49 from National Autoparts for 62 Ford 292 truck starter (be sure to remove your old starter "Bendix drive"....also you need to ensure that the starter drive shaft is the same length on the new one!...Or buy it with the drive incl...but it'll be more.)
You'll also need a 12v generator. Rebuilt ones are about $150 (exchange).
Your best bet though, is to switch to a "Single-wire" alternator such as a GM alt.... that way you completely eliminate the voltage regulator. You can get one pretty cheap at a wrecking yard but you 'll have to fabricate mounting brackets.
You'll need a 12v coil....also available cheep at a 'junk" yard.
Regards,
Rick
You'll definitely want to switch to a negative ground! It makes everything much easier later when you want to install a radio/cd player/CB radio, fog lights, etc!
You should be able to get a rebuilt 12v starter for about $50-100 (exchange....just give them your old 6v starter!)....You'll be buying a starter for a newer late 50's early 60's 292. I paid $49 from National Autoparts for 62 Ford 292 truck starter (be sure to remove your old starter "Bendix drive"....also you need to ensure that the starter drive shaft is the same length on the new one!...Or buy it with the drive incl...but it'll be more.)
You'll also need a 12v generator. Rebuilt ones are about $150 (exchange).
Your best bet though, is to switch to a "Single-wire" alternator such as a GM alt.... that way you completely eliminate the voltage regulator. You can get one pretty cheap at a wrecking yard but you 'll have to fabricate mounting brackets.
You'll need a 12v coil....also available cheep at a 'junk" yard.
Regards,
Rick
Originally Posted by gut
Another question that I forgot to ask? What did you do about your battery polarity. The one in my 53 is hooked up 12V positive ground,,,guess that is ok?
Thanks for the previous quick responses.
Bob/Ohio
Thanks for the previous quick responses.
Bob/Ohio
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 561
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From: Minneapolis
I am considering making the change from a 12 Volt generator to a one wire GM alternator. I remember seeing for sale a GM alternator mounted in an generator case. Does anyone know who sells them?
