Ok guys, this should be simple to answer for the ford guys here at this sight.(which has been a bundle of information just doing searches)I have a 78 x-cab short-box, 460, c6 with single axel rear, and want to put a dual rear in it. It's a work truck, pulls dumptrailer to dump 2-4 tons of weight.(roofing biz) Pulling trailers I've seen 4x4's stuck at dump, but never a dually!! I got the truck for 1000.00(the guy thought it had a 400 in it,I would have told him it was a 460 but he didn't tell me about the bad radiator or how bad the carb screws were stripped out), and put a new radiator in it, and rebuilt the carb. I have a chance to get a dually rear for around 200.00. I have to still go check it out. Wife says if I keep this truck and don't get a new dually I can start working on my 66 Stang restoration. What do I need to make dually rearend work? Will drive shaft bolt right up? Oh, the rear tag reads 3 54 A8TA ADA 603900-12.(what is it?)Any help or info would be appreciated!!!!
C-

 

Take a look at my truck.

http://www.8lug.com

The conversion I did was from arrowcraft.

http://www.arrowcraft.com

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Jun-02 AT 03:45 PM (EST)]Chuky66,
The conversion itlkick referred to converts your existing rear to a dual wheel usually the same payload duty as you have now, you do get added traction and payload from the extra set of tires/wheels. The kits I’ve seen cost more than your truck, plus tires/wheels. If you want to put a 1-ton dual rear under it you need to check the distance between the spring centers and backing plates. The F-350 and the HD 4wd F-250 had the same frame width (34”) so spring centers will match(41”), the F-150 and the 2wd F-250 had a wider frame so I think you would have to weld new spring perches. The F-350 with a flat bed (Cab & Chassis) had a narrower rear (48”) between backing plates than the pick-up bed, (53 1/2”). The 48” rear will not fit under a PU bed or under the wider frame. The shock mounts may also be different, some are welded to the axle tube some are part of the mounting brackets, you can go either way, sometimes finding the weld on stuff new is easier than finding brackets at a junk yard. The drive shaft may have to be shortened a little or it may bolt right up, most /all? 1-ton dual had drive shafts larger in diameter than the lighter duty trucks but you can use either. Then there’s the front end, I haven’t done that on mine yet.
Good luck,
Bryan
P.S. if yours is a 4wd make sure the gear ratios are the same.

 

From the numbers you posted, looks like it has a 3.54 to 1 ratio gear in it.

 

If you have you mind set for dually wheels you are probably better off getting one of those dually conversion kits I would go for the one that you can bolt baby budd wheels too. The ones that use standard steel wheels bolted together is a real crappy design. As for putting Dana 70 in the rear of your truck is going tobe a expensive proposition I would try find a F-350 dually flatdeck instead. I owned a 77 F-350 SWB dually flatdeck that had a 79 front clip on it anyhow it was powered by a 460 C-6 auto which I changed and put in a NP435 4spd. The truck drove great but burned lots of gas it also carried 6000 pounds on the deck fairly well the bad part was the braking power.

As for a dually having more traction in dirt its not always so I have had dually flatdeck 1 ton trucks for years and you have tobe carefull about not getting stuck. Right now I'am looking for a dually diesel 4x4 350 I'am tired of loosing traction when I'am on jobsites.

Good Luck