captchas your et is ok but your mph is very good were you spinning of the line was hoping to see with what you did youd be in the low 15s now i will say bs to all those stock v10s that say they can beat a titan 4x4 in the 1/4 these trucks run low 16s and some 15s also i will say a stock cc 4x4 v10 4.30 gears will not beat a 6.0 powerstroke in the same truck. if the diesel owner puts it in 4x4 and spools up the turbo the v10 has no chance been there done that, friend has one cant beat him also ran his at eunice la raceway after he put a diablo 65hp setting on it went 15.01 at 88 mph in 4x4 mode this is fast. captchas did you get to run your truck before the mods, i am guessing 17 second 1/4s anyway congrats on what you did i was just hoping it would et better

 

What you do is save up TWICE the cost of the blower - then keep half in the bank. If anything blows, at least you can buy another low-mileage V10 and bolt it in place, and still have another $1000 or so to pay someone else to do it if you're too lazy

that would also pay for a rear or tranny... better yet, save up for all three

 

Capt I was doing some figgering and I thought about this.

For ME 4.56 gearing would be too much I think BUT if they do help in the 1/4 (although Id like to see some times with 4.30s w/ same mods) a guy w/ 4.10s could go to these on 20" rims. Ive figured its about the same gearing as the stock 31"=+/- tires w/ 4.56s

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+S.T.&p artnum=135YR0ADST&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1 =yes&place=3

Plus youd pick up some really nice grip and handling improvements in the process.

By the way what type of RPMs are you running at say 85-100mph with those gears? I enjoy my cruising speeds too much to go that low in gearing. Not that it couldnt reach them but the engine might be screaming and gas would be going bye bye.

 

I concur with most everything........I ran an early 6.0 withy my '01 V10 and seemed to get the jump to 40-50 ish. The 6.0 had waaaaay more mid range, however.

The difference may be the lack of the 6.0 owner powerbraking to spool the turbos.........I could see that making a significant difference.

 

My best time is 17.0 @ 79 mph with no mods at all.. This is in a 2005 CC dually 4x4 (4.30) loaded with tools and aux fuel tank.

I think high 16's w/o the tools would be possible

My 2003 dually with the 6.0L would run 17.3's

I will take on any stock 6.0's

Yes you have to spool them up and you'd better have a 4x4 or you will spin the tires big time!

 

a blower will only void the warranty if the accessory part 'causes' the damage. SEMA has spent alot of time and dollars on this, since their livelihood depends on the sale of aftermarket parts. And if aftermarket parts cause guys warranty problems they don't buy em. It's a tricky ball of wax if say your blown V10 grenades a tranny or a rear end, but just cause your huffin it don't mean it wouldn't have happened anyway. For a while the manufacturers had carte blanche for claim denial. "You have an aftermarket pinstripe, we aint covering your grenaded motor, sorry". But SEMA has paid lots of over-priced (which one aint?) attorneys to make sure we as consumers don't get gooned for wanting to improve the performance, safety and value of our daily drivers.

 

Stock Nissan Titans run 16-16.8 in the quarter with 2+ second 60 foot times. Meaning the hp starts making up for lack of torque about mid track. The very best time for a mostly stock Titan I saw was 15.98, and it had exhaust/intake mods. Every other time slip was over 16 seconds which leaves alot of room for driver error/driver skill.

I spend alot of time embarassing guys in so-called hot cars/hot trucks. Could I beat all of them if John Force were in the other car ? Probably not. The bozo in the Titan this morning who thought he was putting on an impressive display when he smoked me out of the light while I was trying to pry my eye lids open at 5:30 AM got the famous "good morning, thanks for stopping by, next time don't bring a knife to a gunfight" feeling as I showed him my taillights. I was ready and trans-braking the big Ford when the opposite light was yellow. I was across the intersection before he figured out what 'dumb-***' really means.

 

Great.........in theory at least.

Here's the problem; even if you're 100% correct, you will still be put through the hoops trying to force a dealer to perform a warranty claim. We're talking sometimes MONTHs till a zone rep happens to come by to check a particular dealer.

Case in point...... '95 Mustang GT that had FORD parts installed; GT-40 intake, BBK TB(sold through FRPP)Mass air, 24# injectors etc.

The car went through 2 heater cores....the dealer denied the claim on the 2nd one because, get this, the mods made the engine rev to high causing too much pressure in the heater core........zone rep will be here in 3 weeks, take it up with him!!!

The dealer wouldn't budge even though I explained how the stock computer had a rev limiter and I couldn't rev past 6200 regardless of mods...........I have more if you'd like.

Needless to say, the '04 Lightning does not get touched until after the warranty has expired.

 

What kind of warranty do you have on a 1995 GT that is still good?

 

yea, in theory at least. But at least now there IS a theory. But what dealer doesn't put you through the hoops for anything now.

Does everyone know the 'new' service system most dealerships have in place ? Red team leader ? Blue team leader ? Sound familiar ? Wellll, if it doesn't it will soon. Service writers/servc mgrs now have teams, just like the sales people do. Uh huh, same principles, they work on commission. I had a guy at a Ford dealership I had gone to for years, I called a couple months ago and asked for him. Another guy said he was out but could he help me. This guy drilled the crap out of me to come in and make an appt. But SPECIFICALLY to make sure I asked for him. He wrote me in his book even though I told him I would not be there. 2 days later my guy called me and read me the riot act for switching to the other guy. When I told him how this other guy put me through the ringer he was extremely pissed, said this guy had been trying to steal all his customers. I asked him what difference it made, he said "geez, we're all on straight commission, didn't you know that?"

 

LOL!!! That was 9 years ago.


Recently couldn't get Ford to change U-joints on our '02 Ranger........truck had aftermarket spindles which some bone head thought changed the pinion angle.

After laughing and proving the morons wrong.......they found a smooth, clean spot on the driveshaft. That must of caused the u-joint failure!!!

We changed the $13 part ourselves.........and I will think twice about buying ANYTHING from that dealer in the future.



I believe it's called the Moss Magnuson (????) act......which prohibits the aftermarket from voiding the warranty......

We do agree, however, that no matter how correct we are the dealer can make it a miserable experience.

 

Magnuson Moss act does offer some protection but only from obvious relationships... It was enacted to prevent Major manufactures from holding a gun to your head forcing a Factory Only Oil change and Service to maintain the warranty in force... In the act (you can read it via a simple google search) the specifics still give the manufacturer a lot of leverage. The intent was to allow us to use an oil (or other repair part) of similar or greater specification from any supplier the "meets or exceeds" the manufacturer spec. And required the manufacturer to prove that the use of another part or expendable item was the cause of the damage to void a warranty.

Implied in the act...NOT WRITTEN in is the idea that there must be a relationship between the modified or replacement part and the failure of a warranty item. Obviously an installed Moon roof can not impact the transmission in any way. But if the Doors did not close or open properly then the Manufacture might be on solid ground denying a claim because the install of the moon roof changed the structural integrity of the cabin.

All Lifts will impact power train and suspension.
All trany mods will impact power train items down stream and in the case of a different torque converter or shift points can impact the power source in RPM loads.
All mods to the power source that increase power or change the power curve impact all power train down stream.

To say that SEMA has had good luck helping defend and enforce parts of this legislation is true but only half the story. All the manufactures have won many arbitrations proving that they are NOT liable when an owner changes something that has a direct causality relationship to a major assembly that failed.

They have gotten very good at this because they bleed red ink every time they have to re-build or replace a $7000 motor or $5000 trany that some butt head destroyed after adding a chip and other power adder mods.

I for one am on the Factory side in this case.... You don't have to spend too much time on these web sites to find some dumb *** that grenade his trans and gets the advice to remove the chip, reset the codes before you take it in for warranty repair....sorry folks, but this is fraud, and cost you and me more when Ford pases it back to us in higher parts and vehicle prices.

On the other hand a chip is not likely to cause the alternator to over charge wiping out the battery any more then a new stereo head unit (properly installed) is likely to make the Integrated Trailer Brake controller fail.

But a botched remoter starter security system install can totally wipe out the ABS, PCM and cause thousands of dollars of grief... again your warranty should be voided for electrical only in this case. But once that problem is fixed, Ford usually has the computer database flagged for that Vin and no dealer will do warranty work of any kind on it ever again. It takes a LOT of time and effort spent by the owner to get the OASIS flag lifted.

Bottom line is; Modify at you own risk, and be well informed about your rights, and try to also look at it from the manufactures point of view as well as the rest of the customer base.

Additionally it is very important to find and support a good dealer. You must cultivate an great relationship with the service representative. you must behave calm and logical with the dealer service rep. You, must not have unreasonable expectations. You must always pay on time without nit picking on piddly crap. And you must give the dealer rep a warm fuzzy that you know what you are talking about and you take care of your responsibilities maintaining the vehicle.

I finally am living in a area that this is possible, I buy all from one dealer, I get all my service from that dealer, and when ever there is a questionable issue they decide on my side. I have been in the waiting area a few times and watched some butt head argue and be rude and after the diagnosis was done the rep politely stated the warranty did not cover the item. The butt head usually gets all loud, curses, gets overly indignant and storms out... all while the rep pokes in all the info to the computer...what are the odds that down the street at the other dealer he is gonna give a better answer?

 

Sounds like present to me!

 

LMAO @ the "fan"


Case in point...... '95 Mustang GT THAT HAD FORD parts installed; GT-40 intake, BBK TB(sold through FRPP)Mass air, 24# injectors etc.

The car WENT through 2 heater cores....the dealer DENIED the claim on the 2nd one because, get this, the mods made the engine rev to high causing too much pressure in the heater core........zone rep will be here in 3 weeks, take it up with him!!!


Sounds like past tense to me.....