Fuel Injectors
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Senior User
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From: BAYVILLE
Fuel Injectors
CAN ANY BODY TELL ME IF INJECTORS CAUSE THE ENGINE RUN ROUGH
AND STALLING COULD IT CAUSE THE SPARK PLUGS TO HAVE
BLACK CARBON ON ALL PLUGS
1990 FORD E-150 5.0 302 ENG
AND STALLING COULD IT CAUSE THE SPARK PLUGS TO HAVE
BLACK CARBON ON ALL PLUGS
1990 FORD E-150 5.0 302 ENG
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From: BAYVILLE
I Know Theres Black Smoke And The Plugs Our All Fould
And Hesitates On Accelertion And Stalls Out And Runs For 2 Or 3 Mintes
Olny Way From Keeping It From Stalling Is Holding On Gas Pedle
And Hesitates On Accelertion And Stalls Out And Runs For 2 Or 3 Mintes
Olny Way From Keeping It From Stalling Is Holding On Gas Pedle
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From: maui.HI
I also had a similar problem. It ended up being a bad O2 sensor not allowing the engine to go into close loop.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 638
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From: Birmingham, AL
Hendel Jr,
I would agree that the fuel pressure may be at fault. I just mentioned this in another thread but you can easily check the regulator by removing the vacum line on the regulator and crank the engine over (do only with a cold engine) If fuel comes out of the nipple where the vacum line was attached the diaphram is bad.
This causes a two fold problem, first it allows the pressure to be excessively high which can cause the rich condition and second it allows fuel to be sucked up the vacum line that is attached to the regulator and go directly into the intake manifold unmetered, which also causes a rich condition.
Once the doghouse is off it is the simplest thing you can check, so you might as well have a look at it while your at it. If you have a test gauge you can check it that way as well. It could be running out of spec and not have a bad diaphram.
Gene
I would agree that the fuel pressure may be at fault. I just mentioned this in another thread but you can easily check the regulator by removing the vacum line on the regulator and crank the engine over (do only with a cold engine) If fuel comes out of the nipple where the vacum line was attached the diaphram is bad.
This causes a two fold problem, first it allows the pressure to be excessively high which can cause the rich condition and second it allows fuel to be sucked up the vacum line that is attached to the regulator and go directly into the intake manifold unmetered, which also causes a rich condition.
Once the doghouse is off it is the simplest thing you can check, so you might as well have a look at it while your at it. If you have a test gauge you can check it that way as well. It could be running out of spec and not have a bad diaphram.
Gene
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From: BAYVILLE
I Just Replaced My Eec-iv Now The Check Engine Light
Comes On The One That Was In There Was Bad
But Still I Get Black Stuff Out Ofthe Exhaust
When You Start It Runs Rough And Dies
Out I Got To Keep My Foot On Pedle To Keep It Runing
I Did A Fuel Pressure Gage Check Fuel Pressure With Engine Off
The Psi Is Around 40 I Don"t Know If Thats Good Or Bad
Comes On The One That Was In There Was Bad
But Still I Get Black Stuff Out Ofthe Exhaust
When You Start It Runs Rough And Dies
Out I Got To Keep My Foot On Pedle To Keep It Runing
I Did A Fuel Pressure Gage Check Fuel Pressure With Engine Off
The Psi Is Around 40 I Don"t Know If Thats Good Or Bad
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From: BAYVILLE
Originally Posted by Gene W
40 is about right. Spec for mine is 38 (94 351)
Check the idle air control and the throtle position sensor.
Gene
Check the idle air control and the throtle position sensor.
Gene
ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND DETECT IT
HOW DO I CHECK IDLE AIR CONTROL AND THROTLE POSITION SENSOR
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Birmingham, AL
****THE WAY ITS RUNING NOW SHOULD THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND DETECT IT****
Not nessasarilly. I have had mine quit all together and never set a code or cause the Check Eng Light to come on.
If you have a Haynes or simalar repair manual it will describe the test procedure for the IAC and the TPS.
The IAC will get gunked up some times and a lot of people have reported success in cleaning the vale part of it, being carefull not to get solvent in the electrical portion of the device.
I haven't had trouble with my TPS on this vehicle but a lot of posters suggested it as the source of a simalar problem that I was having with my van a while back. They had solved simalar problems with theirs by replacing it. I think they tend to wear at the idle position first because they spend more time in that posistion than any other. That has been my experience with other cars.
Gene
Not nessasarilly. I have had mine quit all together and never set a code or cause the Check Eng Light to come on.
If you have a Haynes or simalar repair manual it will describe the test procedure for the IAC and the TPS.
The IAC will get gunked up some times and a lot of people have reported success in cleaning the vale part of it, being carefull not to get solvent in the electrical portion of the device.
I haven't had trouble with my TPS on this vehicle but a lot of posters suggested it as the source of a simalar problem that I was having with my van a while back. They had solved simalar problems with theirs by replacing it. I think they tend to wear at the idle position first because they spend more time in that posistion than any other. That has been my experience with other cars.
Gene
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
The TPS is easy to check. There are three wires, the left one is a source, the middle one is the return line to the computer, and the right one is a ground. Take a digital multi-meter, and attach the (-) lead from the meter to the ground side, then attach the (+) lead to the middle wire. DO NOT let them touch each other. Idle reading should be ~.9 volts, and WOT should be ~5.0 volts (+/- .2v) with a very smooth transition. If there is any erratic activity then replace the TPS. The IAC is more easily just replaced than tested.
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From: BAYVILLE
Originally Posted by pfogle
The TPS is easy to check. There are three wires, the left one is a source, the middle one is the return line to the computer, and the right one is a ground. Take a digital multi-meter, and attach the (-) lead from the meter to the ground side, then attach the (+) lead to the middle wire. DO NOT let them touch each other. Idle reading should be ~.9 volts, and WOT should be ~5.0 volts (+/- .2v) with a very smooth transition. If there is any erratic activity then replace the TPS. The IAC is more easily just replaced than tested.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
The black stuff coming out the tail pipe is soot, either from burning oil, or the overly rich condition. I'd replace the O2 sensors, and the spark plugs. THe plugs are fouled from the excess fuel making it run bad, and this has burnt up the O2 sensors as well.
Last edited by pfogle; Oct 10, 2005 at 11:35 AM.