Hi! My name is Paul, and I live in Seattle. I have a '66 F100, and I want to know if this model has drain holes in the pickup bed. I had a spray-on bedliner installed, and I wonder if the holes may have been covered up. If you know the location(s) where the holes should be, I would greatly appreciate the information! Thank you.

 

Well, Henry left them out. Which was dumb.

But they sold a lot of trucks to farmers in those days. And farmers put grain in them. And Duct Tape was not yet invented!!!!

If you intend to park the truck outside, or leave the bed full of debris and stuff that will keep water in it, then my advice would be to correct Henry's oversight. About four holes aross the front, 1/2" diameter minimum, and a couple more in front of the wheel wells, all the way to the side. Those are the spots that hold water.

 

Mr. Herman:

Thank you for your excellent advice. Do you recommend a method of
treating the holes to prevent rust, or is this unnecessary?

Thank you!

- Paul

 

A good question, to which I have no perfect answer. Do you know the brand of the spray in liner? If yes, then find out if they have some sort of repair kit. Use the repair kit to treat the exposed metal after drilling the holes. You also may be better off using a bimetalic hole saw in the smallest size, as opposed to a twist dill bit. The twist bit is going to tear up your liner, whereas the hole saw will first cut through the liner and then the metal.

I didn't mention one other obvious thing -- make darn sure when you drill that you are not over a cross member or other important structure. I have personally not drilled mine, but I have it a garage and I mop out the water in the rare occassion where I have been driving in the rain.

 

Paul,

Henry made many errors over the years, and one was bed drains on the F-100.

I have a '63 Unibody which I acquired in '71. After a good rain, there was always standing water in the front of the bed.

There were two small holes in the front of the bed, so I decided to enlarge them. Drilled them out to 5/8 inch, and with a long bit, went all the way through the substructure. (which I think some folks call the tork box).

Figured this would solve the problem. WRONG! Over a period of years, I found heavy rusting of the tork box, because the water did not flow straight thru, but dispursed over the entire substructure.

Just last year, I installed a piece of 1" copper pipe as a drain which is soldered to the bed and extends all the way down thru the tork box, and lets the water hit the ground.

I should have done this years ago, as now the tork box is a rusted out shell!

Oh well, at least I can offer advice to others.

John

 

Hi John and Mr. Herman -
Thank you for your constructive advise. I doubt I would have considered
the factors you both mentioned. I will consult with the bedliner outfit regarding the treatment of the drilled holes.
Thank you, gentlemen!
- Paul

 

I recommend using rubber grommets, the kind where the sheet metal slips into the center portion of the grommet, this will seal tight and looks much better than just a drilled hole. also watch out for gas tanks and wiring whenever you drill.
Good Luck.

 

Now this is some good info to get right about now My drive way is inclined slightly, but when the truck is on the street is not (obviously).

 

Paul, I answered your post on antique tractor, I think if I had a spray on liner, I wouldn't worry about the water. As soon as you start off the water will come out. The spray on liner is like a skin and is excellent protection for your bed.

I don't think I would drill any holes in it, if it were mine.

John

 

Hello -
Thank you for your insights! I am very pleased and impressed with the responses I have received from everyone! My problem was a steady drip in a couple of spots through the bedliner. The man who installed the liner patched the problem areas with compound, but I was still bugged about having standing water in the bed, although I don't think it would've contributed to a rusting problem. I went ahead and drilled 4 one inch holes with a forstner bit and painted the bare metal with a rust preventitive paint. The holes are about 4.5 inches from the front wall, and located in the 1st, 6th, 9th and 14th channels of the bed. They lead straight to the asphalt without interference. The result is semi-appealing aesthetically. I bought the almost rust free truck last summer in Eastern Washington. I live about 2 blocks from the salt water, so I was freaked out that it might start rusting. I had it treated and undercoated immediately, and had the spray-on liner installed. My wife likes to say I should get treatment for my obsessive compulsive disorder. I don't drink or smoke, so I have to cultivate some abnormalities!
Thanks everyone!

- Paul

 

I'm sorry I'm a little late with this, Paul. The long wheelbase styleside truck has drains;the shorty does not. They are not really holes. As you know, the ribbed portion of the box floor does not quite reach the forward bulkhead. The gap between them is not welded in certain places - I think in two areas, each about 18" from the side edge of the floor - and water drains through the open areas.
Eric

 

If you want clean round holes use a stepped Unibit and drill to the size desired. As posted above the wave bottom pan lets water out in front if you water blast dirt and silt out that accumulates and blocks draining.
.....=o&o>.....

 

They did have holes for draining...the raised ribs of the floor at the fwd end are all open for draining....however I have seen varying differences in the gap between the edge of the ribbed part of the bed floor and the forward wall...I have a creampuff as far as the bed goes(on my 65 for sale) and it has a gap of about 1/8" up front and when cleared drains nicely....the bummer part is that they cant be easily accessed from underneath due to the front crossmember of the bed being there too....


cs65