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Install.......usually the pass. side is worse only cause of the starter. Usually have to jack motor, and put both pieces in at once. ya, kinda tricky, but can be done(like all of us have).
Difference? Can't say I see any real performance(stock 352) changes. Mileage? Not really any difference there either.
My main concern was getting rid of warped stock manifolds.
I got the dynomax headers from summit. They went on ok after I got 5 bolts drilled out of the heads becasue they all snapped off. What was going to take 1 day max to install is now on it's 3rd week and $150 in gaskets/machine work more expensive.
25 years ago my dad had a really nice 67 half ton ford ranger.He ended up installing a set headers on the otherwise stock 352 and swore he increased the fuel mileage by 3 mpg. He is no longer around so unfortunately I can`t question him on this now. Do you guy`s think that is in the ballpark. thank`s
Really, I dont doubt it. The stock exhaust manifolds were so bad, that the improvement in efficiency from the headers may very well have increased mileage that much. On any other family of engine I might raise the BS flag, but not here. They may have made it ran leaner than it was before, too. Interestingly, when I compare an FE in desktop dyno, the difference between stock manifolds with mufflers, and headers with mufflers, isn't 4 to 5 horsepower. It says more like 40 to 60 horsepower, depending on how the engine is built! I couldn't believe it until I saw it.
Lets use my build as an example:
Stock manifolds: 328hp @ 5500rpm
Headers: 404hp @ 5500rpm
So yeah, they do make a difference!
Just my opinion!
On the headers:
I'm running Hedman's on my truck. They work good. I have a couple gripes, one is that one of the primary tubes is too close to the starter. It hasn't caused a problem *yet*. The other is that I think the collector tubes are too short. But they do bolt up good and seal good, and do work as advertised. I like 'em overall. When they eventually rust out, and they will, I'll get the ceramic coated ones. For someone buying headers for the first time, I suggest you bite the bullet and get the coated ones. Keeps underhood temperatures slightly cooler, and saves you money and headaches down the road since they wont rust out.
Installation is kind of a pain. On the passenger side, I can install it from the top if I loosen the starter. You kind of have to turn it around creatively. You'll figure it out. On the driver side, install from underneath, but know that you have to have the steering in just the right spot.
Good luck!
Last edited by rusty70f100; Oct 4, 2005 at 07:31 PM.
Thanks for all the info guys. But it seems to be more of a hassle than anything else. My luck would be a bunch of broken exhaust bolts. Don't get me wrong now I want the headers but not the hassle, or the busted knuckles. I think I'll let my local shop have the duties. Its a small price to pay for piece of mind. And If I didn't tell you all I was doing it this way, I could come back on here and sound like a master mechanic and say it was a breeze. lol! That's not me for what its worth. I just don't have the time. Thanks again, Chad
Hey 2tone73 I put liquid wrench on all the manifold bolt about 4 times a day for 3 days prior to taking the stock manifolds off and none of my bolts broke off. I didnt have to drive the truck every day so this was easy for me to do. Hey guys I ordered my new Hooker ceramics from Jegs and it's a month delivery time as Hooker dosnt stock them ( 6903-1 ) for the FE. They build them to order. Just food for thought if your going to use them in a build and your in a hurry. They should have them by 10-19 and then ship to me
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