400M head replacement
Chu
2. Drain the block by removing the lower radiator hose. (TIP* use a shop-vac to suck the antifreeze out of the radiator from the fill neck first. Then pull the lower radiator hose and suck the block dry. You avoid a big miss, and can reuse the old antifreeze when finished.)
3. Starting at the front of the engine. Remove the power steering pump and lay it off to the side.
4. Unbolt and completely remove the alternator.
5. Remove fuel line form pump to carb
6. Number and remove the spark plug wires.
7. Remove throttle cable and kick down linkage from crab and tie those off to the firewall.
8. Remove the intake manifold bolts and remove the intake. (The intake might need some help in separating from the heads. Use a short block of wood and a big Ford tool (Chevy guys call these things “hammers”) to help freeing it up.)
9. Pull off the valve covers and loosen the rocker arms. Pull out the push rods.
10. Starting I the middle, and working your way in a clockwise motion, break the head bolts lose ½ turn, but do un-tighten them completely.
11. After you have loosen ALL them ONE-HALF turn, start in the middle again and finish loosening all the head bolts.
12. Remove the exhaust manifold studs/bolts and move them off to the side.
13. Once again you might need to use a block of wood and a Ford tool to persuade the head to depart the block.
14. Lift the head the engine and call Doctor for hernia operation. Have a cold beer and cuss out the guy let his dog #### in your yard.
O’Rileys now sells remanufactured Ford 351M/400 heads for 129.99/each w/30.00 core charge. These heads come with new valves and springs, requiring only the reuse of the rocker arms. You might want to look into those instead of having your old head rebuilt




