Hi all
I have a 1987 Bronco
the ignition will not turn over to start the truck well better put with the key the truck won't start. I can jump start it with the selinoid but other wise it will do nothing. I have replace this weekend the selinoid and the starter but still no juice. No one seems to know why it won't start so I am turning to you all for help. I hate having to go everywhere and feel like I am stealing my own truck just to get it started

Thanks again for everything without this group I would be lost

Natalie

 

Check for full volts getting to the soleniod while cranking, that would be the small wire, I believe it is purple and red that engages the soleniod. Also check for the nuetral safety switch on an automatic and the clutch egagement switch on a manual. If they are not engaged (closed) you will not get the truck started.
Al

 

I would do what alsair said and check voltage first. Sounds like a case of a bad ignition switch to me. It is located on top of the steering column. I have had two go out on me. They are simple to replace. Pull some of the dash panels off and there should be two big bolts under the steering column that will let it free. The swith is held in with two small bolts and it is adjustable.

 

How do I check for these things is there something I need to do in order for it to tell me this may be the problem?
Thank you again for relpying and offering your advice

Natalie

 

If you have access to a multimeter you can test the power feed from the ignition switch to the solenoid by setting the meter to read DC voltage. Touch the red lead to the terminal where the small wire connects to the solenoid. Touch the black lead to the frame of the truck or the NEG battery post. You will need someone's help here. Have someone in the truck turn the key to start it. If there is voltage getting through the ignition switch to the solenoid, the meter should read about 11-13 volts. If not, the ignition switch is where I'd start. If you don't have a multimeter, you can do the same thing using a 12 volt light (test light) and touching the two leads to the two points I mentioned. If voltage is present when the key is turned, the light will glow.

 

If it is not any of the aforementioned problems then you may have a broken or worn rod actuator. This little trinket is located inside the steering column which activates the rod which in turn activates the ignition switch. I just had to replace one on my 1990 Bronco this last weekend. $13 at the local Ford dealer, in stock.

 

Is your tranny an automatic?? If it is, try putting it in the nuetral position and see if she cranks. The nuetral safety can be faulty.
Al

 

yes it is an automatic I will try that this afternoon and let you know. So if if cranks in Neutral the safety switch is faulty?

 

Ok so I went to a shop had them test it and they said no volts were coming through that area. The dude told me he thinks it might be the red cord thing that I suppose is the ignition switch (sorry) but said he could not do it and told me to go to an electrician now he to me sounds a bit crazy but from your post you say try the ignition switch so I will do just that

any other thoughts?<O></O>
<O

 

She did not crank at all by putting it in Nuetral

Natalie

 

It still maybe the safety switch. What youy need to do is trace tyhe wire out of the firewall into the engine compartment. On my "87" the wire is red with a violet (purplish) stripe. Get a pin and stick it into the wire coming out of the fire wall and see if you get 12 volts?? The wire then goes into a bundle and goes down towards the tranny into the switch, the comes back into the main harness running towards your front light. Then across the top of the radiator to the soleniod. If you know someone who knows how to use a Multi-meter, you could find the problem in a heartbeat. I say go get a manual on the truck and go from there. You could always jump the switch out. Question, does all the lights and accesory's go off when you turn the key to the crank position and then they come back on in the run position?
Al

 

my lights work fine, when I turn the key to the on position I son't get any dimming or anything they work just as they had been working prier to this problem. The only thing that has changed is the use of the ignition to start the truck otherwise I don't see a problem with the lights
(they cut off when I turn them off and come on the same way and when I put the key in the ignition the regular lights and chimes come on)

Thanks
Natalie

 

how do you jump the switch out and what does that do?

Natalie

 

It is eerie that I seen this post because I just dealt with the same problem on my 1987 yesterday. I had a spare solonoid so without checking I replaced it.....No luck.. After tearing into the wiring harness at a couple of locations I ended up under the drivers side of transmission. There is a connector there for the NEUTRAL Safty switch. That is where I was getting the power into, but not out of. ( Red wire kinda purple stripe) I know it needed adjustment and the haynes manual gives instructions using a drill bit as an alignment tool, but alas I did the temp fix until the weather warms up and drys out a little. I DON'T RECCOMEND DOING THIS, but I temporarily jumped across these two wires. I only did this because of the weather situation. When it drys up I WILL do the proper adjustment and remove the jumper (bypass) I inserted. I don't know if this is the problem you are having, I just throught I would pass this on. Good Luck
Seen the how to jump heres what I did. I used a small guage wire and made a "U" and plugged it between the wto terminalsso I could still plug it up. Again I don't recommend this for extended use, as the vehicle will now start in ANY GEAR theory wise the key can't turn except in neutral of park. But there is always the, " It isn't supposed to do that." factor.

The connector is kinda round and you press the tab on the connector and pull apart. there are two rows of wires I will call them upper and lower.
there are only two wires ( female connectors ) on the "upper" side and a row on the bottom. The wire going to the solonoid is the red and (purple stripe) the female connector above is what I jumpered this to.
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Again this was what I found after tracing this on my Bronco= 1987 Bronco 351w carbed c-6 tranny

 

You could jump the wires at the tranny or at the harness in the engine compartment. Just like hawk242 said, this is a temporary fix, and is very dangerous if somebody other than you is driving the vehicle. It is a very common problem in the trucks, however an easy fix. Let us know what happens.
Al