After the installing my H260, my valve train makes a little more noise than it used to. Not a 'tick' and not an alarming noise, I can just hear it clicking around in there a little. Is that normal for a cam that gives a little more valve action? Could it be that I used straight 30W for my post run-in oil/filter change? I ran synthetic once several years ago and it was noisy. I'd chage it back to 10W-30 right now but oil's getting kind of expensive to fool aroud with.

Thanks

 

Mines does that all the time now. Was your timing way off at some time or another? The upper end on this machines has some pretty loose tolerances compared to more fined engines today, so ignition timing too advanced might play a good role in accelerated wear and tear on the valve train. Even a vacuum leak. Dancing rpm at idle wears everything out faster than a smooth idle. Putting a new cam in might push a valve train a little beyond in normal movements. Over thousands of miles everyting sets in to work with one another. Its funny because my truck ran on 5w-30 for over 100000 miles (northern ontario), and after i put 10w-30 in it, it always makes that lifter clack at startup for the first 100 miles of an oil change. Then the oil thins out a bit and is a little more like the 5w-30 to the lifters and and valve noise settles right down. A little gas gets in the oil. Oil breaks down thinner. The amount of gas coming in is very close to the amount burned, so i lose 1/4 cup between oil changes. Its not used to the 10w-30 as much and even the oil pressure is slightly lower before the oil thins out after a few hundred miles. Even if youve overreved this vulnerable motor you valves and bottom end wears out pretty quick fast. Like taking it outta overdrive and flooring it on a 10 degree mountain passin a transport doin 80 miles an hour. (E4OD) Then you really hear the valves and they don't seem to ever quiet down like new again, if you do that 20 times. Mine sounds like a tired beast at idle but wakes up when you floor it. I have to grandma drive it now. Probably die this winter stuck in a snowbank. Poor old 2 wheel drive. The motors "learn" their most effecient operation, and any modifications you do, or any changes that happen, other parts respond to. Its wouldnt make sense to change you valves and pushrods if you dont change you lifters or whatever.

 

I wouldn't say that I had it out of time too long at all. I ran in the new cam at about 0d BTDC witch is about 10d retarded. Then I advanced it by 'Feel' to maybe 14+ and ran that for a day (10-12 miles). Then right back to about 10d for a week before I bought a light to confirm. Now its at 14d btdc and it runs real good.

Maybe I should back it off a little and see if that helps. I'm realy starting to think that the 30w is a significant contributer.