Heat Treating?

I'm no expert on this at all so I'll be curious to see what people in the know have to say. My theory is that you risk more trouble than anything in the cooling process. Make sure you butter while it's still warm.
Last edited by ivanribic; Sep 30, 2005 at 02:02 AM.
.The stubs are not fully heat treated, just the first 1/4" or something (this is what my instructor thought they were). now the 4340 alloys and what not are fully heat treated, and that along with the chorium and moly alloy's are the only strenght additives to that type of axle, but i still don't know if i'd gain anything by heat treating the stubs and what not.
Another thing to consider is (like Ivan said) the cooling process. It's easier to control the cooling rate of the "first 1/4 inch" than the center of the shaft. Say the shaft is 1.31" diameter. That means that the center .81" of the shaft is left untreated. If this area were to be heated rapidly then expected to cool at the same rate as the outer 1/4"....it ain't happenin'. Most all of the characteristics engineered into heat treating metal is from the science involved in the cooling process. A minute makes a difference.
Cody
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), the idea of heat treating is to 1. reduce/enlarge grain size, the smaller the grain size the stronger and tougher (ie abilty to take a punch) the material is, but at higher temperatures the material tend to creep, the larger the grains the exact opposite is true 2. To reilive internal stresstes and regain a certian amount of ductility (there's more but i'm tired
, but i'll list more tomorrow if i get on).Now the biggest thing with heat treating is the cooling rate, the faster it cools the stronger it becomes, but to fast and it becomes brittel (ANY steel that has high strenght is brittle, period). All of this info applies to loads applied in compression/tension, but i'm not sure how well this works out with torisional forces tthough and thus this topic. But from what has all been said it appears that this wouldn't be worth it correct, but nonethe less its interesting.
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My dad used to work with a guy that moved up here from Iowa. He used to drag race on the cheap and had lots of experiences with axle shafts (don't get ahead of me here!!
). He used the 9 inch axle exclusively for obvious reasons. Here's what he told me about what he learned:As far as shock loading goes (on non-transbrake launches), the factory 28 spline shaft tended to last longer without breaking than the 31 spline models. Now I'm not sure what year shafts he was using, but I can see merit in this after telling you about the experiment he did with a few sets of axles. He used paint to make a straight line down each of the axle shafts. Then he'd make a few runs and wait until he had either breakage or until he thought he should change axleshafts. What he found amazed him. With the 31 spline shafts, the axle shaft would twist very slightly and then break off a few inches from the splines. With the 28 spline axles, the shaft would deform and twist nearly 1/4 of a turn without breaking.
I believe that the method (or depth) of the heat treat on the 28 spline axles was about right to maintain toughness and flexibility. Maybe it's just the smaller diameter of the shaft, who knows?
I know it's not really relevant, but it's some food for thought.
Cody
(shock loading
)
My dad used to work with a guy that moved up here from Iowa. He used to drag race on the cheap and had lots of experiences with axle shafts (don't get ahead of me here!!
). He used the 9 inch axle exclusively for obvious reasons. Here's what he told me about what he learned:As far as shock loading goes (on non-transbrake launches), the factory 28 spline shaft tended to last longer without breaking than the 31 spline models. Now I'm not sure what year shafts he was using, but I can see merit in this after telling you about the experiment he did with a few sets of axles. He used paint to make a straight line down each of the axle shafts. Then he'd make a few runs and wait until he had either breakage or until he thought he should change axleshafts. What he found amazed him. With the 31 spline shafts, the axle shaft would twist very slightly and then break off a few inches from the splines. With the 28 spline axles, the shaft would deform and twist nearly 1/4 of a turn without breaking.
I believe that the method (or depth) of the heat treat on the 28 spline axles was about right to maintain toughness and flexibility. Maybe it's just the smaller diameter of the shaft, who knows?
I know it's not really relevant, but it's some food for thought.
Cody

All I posted was some food for thought. You can make your own assumptions from there.
I'm just the innocent bystander who gets caught in these fits of rage between all of you warmongers!!
Cody
factory parts are hardened for specific requirements, like ends of axels for wear resistance in the spider gears and fully hardening would be expensive and difficult to control, not just to heat it, but the type and rate of quench and normalize
like was mentioned, you can make the parts too brittle for the application




