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A while back some one had posted a step by step install for Dual alternators on our trucks, I want to setup another alternator to charge my aux batteries under the bed of the truck. I currently am charging through the trailer tow charge line, and have thought about a battery isolator, but I think by the time I get an isolator large enough to handle the current load, I would be pretty close to the same price as adding a second alternator. Part numbers for the brackets is what I am specifically looking for as I believe the alternator is the same as the top one.
I found these instructions that were posted by a member a year or so ago;
1) The factory second alternator bracket is readily available from Ford. F8TZ*10A313*AA. You need to specify the "passenger side". Althought the brackets are the same part number, they are definitely not the same bracket. $130.45
2) You need an additional idler pulley that bolts into the new bracket. F8TZ*8678*FA. $20.48
3) You need three replacement bolts. Two of which will replace existing bolts (shorter ones.) that fit into the a/c mounting bracket. The other one replaces a bolt (shorter one.) that fits into the front of the engine block. It holds down the main groundng cable on the back side, and holds the tranmission cooler and wiring set on the front side. N606068-s100 (x2) and W701844-s309 (x1). The nut on the latter bolt is reusable.
4) You need three alternator bolts. These are the same as the bracket hold down bolts. N606068-s100.
5) I was sold a wiring harness that was designed for the original 110 amp alternator that Ford offers in the dual optional alternator set up. The plug is not the same if you get the standard PSD alternator. These are AMP brand connectors and the plug pins can be released and snapped into the other plug. When I got my alternator from eBay, it had the factory plug and about 3 inches of each wire. You may need the plug. The color coding is not correct either, but you're only dealing with three wires....... deal with it. F81Z*14305*CA $45.97
6) Finally, you'll need a new serpentine belt. Dual alternator option. JK8*1381* $66.18.
Installation took about 3 hours and was made easier by removing the top idler pulley (blocks one of the mounting bolt locations.) and by removing the serpentine belt. (Blocks everything). After carefully studying several different wiring schematics, and noting that they are all different, I made the connections by bolting the main output wire to the fusable link on the passenger side where the other alternator and both batteries already connected. I connected my ignition wire (orange/lt. blue) wire to ignition connection of the #1 alternator.
The exciter control wire (Light green/red) is supposed to connect to the PCM. I have been over the truck 100 times with Ford techs and other thinktanks and I cannot find the connection place. However, during the testing of the second alternator at idle speed and
Oh man.......come on Heat.......the last page of this story is missing.......cut off in mid sentence. What a bummer.
Hehehe....you'll have to pay me for the rest of it...hehehhe...
Naaaahhh..........Here it is;
"The exciter control wire (Light green/red) is supposed to connect to the PCM. I have been over the truck 100 times with Ford techs and other thinktanks and I cannot find the connection place. However, during the testing of the second alternator at idle speed and under varying loads, I deceided that a manual control switch was going to be sufficient. I already had an ISSPRO volt/ammeter set up, and found that use of the second alternator holds that volt meter steady at 14.8 volts....... high beams, a/c, and 16 - 55 watt off road lights.
Although not thinking is an easier way to operate, the manual alternator control will force me to monitor electrical loads. Through testing at different points, I have concluded that the built in voltage regulators on these Motorcraft alternators work very well. There is no bouncing or spiking of voltage, and they seem to load share almost too perfectly. Keep in mind, I am running 2 140 amp alternators. Not the 110 amp units that Ford uses on the factory dual set up.
Always happy to have more input. Pictures will be taken and made available on request. Thanks to those of you who gave input last year. So far I couldn't be happier."
Damn it Heat, Now I gotta do another mod to my truck!!!!! Don't you know I just got a PSD X for momma and I am trying to get her up to speed like mine. I am never gonna get there if you do no not slow down and let me achieve some sort of balance.
I got lots of projects you can spend yours and mommas hard earned money on. Working on a top secret project now..........one that could be a benefit to PSD owners or one that will dispel theories and myths.............stay tuned.
Yep, those were the instructions I read a while ago, Thanks Heat for the info and comedy
I'll do some searching to see if I can find some internet sites that have the required bracketry cheaper than posted, I'll post what I come up with.
Does anyone have pictures of this bracket not installed on the truck? I am still thinking I want to go this route and remove the battery isolator that I currently have. I have seen a few brackets with pulleys that state they are for a 7.3L and look nothing like the top bracket. Any pics would be of huge assistance. This is what I have been finding: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160367601002
Last edited by cangim; Jan 31, 2010 at 05:16 PM.
Reason: updating link