Underhood clean up
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Underhood clean up
Hey Guys , I was just reading a post from Frenchy and he was asking about removing vacuum lines and changing his pvc valve from the oem configuration on a 351w. Franklin2 replied that he would have to change his carb and intake manifold to get rid of the vacuum lines and emissions stuff. Well to make a long story longer... I am very interested in removing anything and everythying I do not need under the hood of my 86' 351w HO. My cats are plugged so they have to go and they there not comming back, so I also would like to get rid of all that junk that gets in my way every time I try to do anythig under thye hood. Has anyone done this? Any help on this topic would be great. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Black Hills South Dakota
The problem is that fuel mixture and timing are computer controlled. The computer makes decisions on how to adjust things based on input from the sensors and controls. It will "know" the sensors are gone, but it won't know how to deal with it. It will no longer be able to set timing and mixture properly, so it defaults to a "broken," limp-home mode. Gas mixture will probably run rich and timing will not advance.
The answer is to either keep the system in original operating order or revert the entire system to a pre-computer setup. Usually that's a non-feedback carb and DuraSpark or point distributor and associated parts.
-Smoky
The answer is to either keep the system in original operating order or revert the entire system to a pre-computer setup. Usually that's a non-feedback carb and DuraSpark or point distributor and associated parts.
-Smoky
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Thanks for the feed back. It looks like I have a big job ahead of me. From what I'm reading so far I will need a new carb,intake manifold and a different ignition distributor assembly. Sounds expensive but I'm going to do it. I guess I'll start by gathering up all the parts,this could take a while. Could I use parts off of an older 351w?
Give me coffee - Or beer!
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Who cares?
You know Stephen, that you may not pass an inspection. It is very difficult to pass without the emission controls in place. If you go ahead with the switch at least get an inspection first. Then you have a year to get ready for the next one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
An 86 351 HO should not be a computer controlled engine. I've never seen one that didn't have DS-II ignition(does it have vacuum advance?)
No need to lose the stock intake, but, an aftermarket one will at least look nicer.
No need to lose the stock intake, but, an aftermarket one will at least look nicer.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NY and VA
I'm doing the same thing with my 86 351 HO no computer.. those darn plastic vacuum lines keep breaking... just get a few feet or a roll of vacuum hose and a lot of plugs. Basically all that is needed will be power brake, distributor vacuum advance and egr (could eliminate but I'm keeping mine) ,and v modulator line to trans. Then there is a line to heater controls. Study the diagram and you can get an idea of what to do. Have fun...
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by 82F100SWB
An 86 351 HO should not be a computer controlled engine. I've never seen one that didn't have DS-II ignition(does it have vacuum advance?)
No need to lose the stock intake, but, an aftermarket one will at least look nicer.
No need to lose the stock intake, but, an aftermarket one will at least look nicer.
And from experience with several vehicles, I still strongly recommend you run the original aircleaner, with the heated air control going to the exhaust manifold. If you live in a warm climate, you can get away without it. If you can't stand how it looks, take it off in the summer, and put it back on in the winter. You will be truely aggravated when it's about 30-40 degrees outside, pouring down snow, and it will just not run correctly. If it's really cold and dry(like in the 20's or below) it won't do it. I put headers on my truck, and made a little box around one of the header pipes out of aluminum flashing, so I could hook my aircleaner back up.
And if you really want to make your carbed truck undriveable, do what the racers do and put block off plates in the middle exhaust ports on the intake gaskets. Been there and done that. It won't even hardly run in the summer when yo do that.
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So it sounds like I will only have to replace the carb and plug or reroute some vacuum lines. What would be a good replacement carb?
I never intended to change the stock air breather, I kinda like it. But the egr valve will be removed/disabled for sure. Also I live up in Canada about 2 hours north of North Dakota (cold).So the only inspection my truck gets is when it is first put on the road,no emmission inspections at all.
I never intended to change the stock air breather, I kinda like it. But the egr valve will be removed/disabled for sure. Also I live up in Canada about 2 hours north of North Dakota (cold).So the only inspection my truck gets is when it is first put on the road,no emmission inspections at all.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
good carb? Never heard bad things of a holley, pretty much can't go wrong there, except for the price. i don't have much experience with a deamon, but what I've heard is all positive. Edelbrock are ok, but not the greatest for longevity from waht I hear. I'd go with something in the 650 range.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I would go no bigger than a 600 cfm 4bbl carb if looking at replacement. Some like Holley's, some like Edelbrock. I've personally never had much luck with Holley, but that may just be me. Edelbrock makes a really good off-road carb that works very well on any truck.
Either way, if your truck is an automatic, you'll need to also puchase the kick-down assembly, which is seperate, but required. If your truck is standard, no need for the adapter.
Either way, if your truck is an automatic, you'll need to also puchase the kick-down assembly, which is seperate, but required. If your truck is standard, no need for the adapter.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
yeah, come to think of it R4E's right, a 650 is a bit big. You might need an engine build for that. I like holley for longevity, but like R4E said, it's a matter of preference mainly. sorry for the mis-info.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Illinois
i bought an 81 ford 1 ton single wheel, 4x4, with the 400 that im gonna make into a mud truck. itll never see the road and id like to remove anything that wasnt nessacary from under the hood. are 81's computer controlled? anything else i should look out for?