IFS kits
#1
#2
Welcome ap73! This is a very friendly site with a lot of people willing to help with any ??? you may have, but this topic comes up a couple times a month, so you may want to do a search to find more info than you'll probably want to know.
P.S.: I am of the school that believes the beam axle can be as good/better than an IFS if fully rebuilt and aligned properly and the OEM steering box rebuilt or better still replaced with the bolt in Toyota PS box.
P.S.: I am of the school that believes the beam axle can be as good/better than an IFS if fully rebuilt and aligned properly and the OEM steering box rebuilt or better still replaced with the bolt in Toyota PS box.
Last edited by AXracer; 09-27-2005 at 05:19 PM.
#3
Hi ap73 and welcome to FTE.
As Axracer suggested go to the "Articles/Specs" section at the top and you will find an article dealing with several types of IFS installs. However, Heidts, TCI, Fatman, and No Limits Wide Ride seem to be the most popular for the Mustang II scenario. Post some pics of your 56 when you are able. Have a good time here.
As Axracer suggested go to the "Articles/Specs" section at the top and you will find an article dealing with several types of IFS installs. However, Heidts, TCI, Fatman, and No Limits Wide Ride seem to be the most popular for the Mustang II scenario. Post some pics of your 56 when you are able. Have a good time here.
#5
Welcome to the forum. We like to see new projects and answer questions so you'll feel right at home. I'm sticking with the stock setup on my 56 so I can't help much. The tech article already mentioned has a pretty complete description of the options.
When you get a few minutes, read through the sticky threads at the top of the forum and then set up your gallery. We like to see pictures of the various projects as they move along toward completion.
When you get a few minutes, read through the sticky threads at the top of the forum and then set up your gallery. We like to see pictures of the various projects as they move along toward completion.
#6
I am installing an IFS on my 60 and found a rossmember only from full tilt street rods in a u finish version for 239.00
Than add the parts you wany from various vendors...I am trying to do mine as inexpensive as possible as money is more out than in right now..I also have welders(metal workers) in the family to do the work...ok to help me do the work...
I think I can piece one together for a decent price and come out with a smile...I am trying to avoid the Ebay parts if possible..but some look decent for a good price
also read the sticky at the top of the topics page to get more info
Glack
Than add the parts you wany from various vendors...I am trying to do mine as inexpensive as possible as money is more out than in right now..I also have welders(metal workers) in the family to do the work...ok to help me do the work...
I think I can piece one together for a decent price and come out with a smile...I am trying to avoid the Ebay parts if possible..but some look decent for a good price
also read the sticky at the top of the topics page to get more info
Glack
#7
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#8
Please whatever anyone does, DO NOT use the stock Mustang2 control arms, especially the lower one that uses the rubber bushed trailing arm. They were designed to be used on a MUCH lighter vehicle (2000# Pinto econobox actually) with virtually no additional load carrying capacity, NOT on a truck weighing >4000# empty and potentially carrying another 1-2000# load. They were of marginal strength on the original application and were abandoned by Ford as a bad design right along with the Fox platform. Virtually all the quality setups use aftermarket tubular upper and lower wishbones even though they are still refered to by the now generic Mustang2 style name.
#14
TCI = company, custom = made to fit specific application
347 B&S = Briggs and Straten an engine manufacturer, search lawnmowers. 3HP 4cycle 7cu in.
Last one is a jk! TCI is an aftermarket company: http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/
AFIK none of the IFS kits are engine specific, as I recall the Y block is a front sump? If the oilpan sump is lower than the bottom of the frame rails closer than 3" to the rear of the front axle centerline you may have to modify the crossmember or the pan to clear. The front axle in stock location is ~ 1-1/2" too far rearwards compared to the wheel well openings so take moving the wheels that much forwards in figuring out clearances.
Just curious why you want to change the front suspension but not the engine?
347 B&S = Briggs and Straten an engine manufacturer, search lawnmowers. 3HP 4cycle 7cu in.
Last one is a jk! TCI is an aftermarket company: http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/
AFIK none of the IFS kits are engine specific, as I recall the Y block is a front sump? If the oilpan sump is lower than the bottom of the frame rails closer than 3" to the rear of the front axle centerline you may have to modify the crossmember or the pan to clear. The front axle in stock location is ~ 1-1/2" too far rearwards compared to the wheel well openings so take moving the wheels that much forwards in figuring out clearances.
Just curious why you want to change the front suspension but not the engine?
Last edited by AXracer; 10-03-2005 at 05:54 PM.
#15
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Somewhere in da corn,Iowa
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I have a mustang II kit in my 54 and i couldnt be happier with it. I got my motor mounts from either John's F100 or Mid Fifty...they were weld in ones and they have them for any motor. and they have them for trans x-members too. Both those places have most the parts you will ever need for a motor swap ina F100, and they are specialized in the Effie's parts.