Short version: '73 F250 dual tanks. Fuel guages used to work last month. Now they don't. Turn on the truck, guages read full, no matter how much fuel. Sounds electrical, no? What to do? Also front tank will only take a small ammount of fuel, even when empty.Profanity Removed Inner workings of the tank falling apart and blocking fuel entry?

Never pulled a tank before, I'm scared!

Long Version. I am stupid. I tried to run ol' Ugly from Pueblo to Denver. This after I had been having problems with it not getting fuel to the carb. Perhaps you remember, maybe not.

Went to fill the front tank (Aux) but she only wanted to take about seven gallons. I thought she was empty, but I've been wrong before. Full tank, good to go...Off to Denver! (210 miles, 8mpg, ten bucks and a toolbox. Half gallon of gas in a can to put in the carb if she won't start. I'm on a mission from God....)

Got to Denver, no problem WOOO HOOOO! Good ol' Ugly! Hopped out of the truck at my final destination and notice pretty serious dripping of gas from under the driver's door. CRAP!

No problem, I replaced two of the fuel lines under there already, I'll just replace another...

Went to start the truck...NO DEAL! I did everything I knew to do. Including putting some gas in the carb. She would turn over and fire, but die immediately. Finally had to cut my losses and call for assistance. Guy shows up and blows through some fuel hoses. Comes to the conclusion the truck is out of gas. All that for $50! Ahhhhhhrgh!
The guages read 3/4 tank!!!! I've sworn by those darn guages for the last nine months!!!

We put some gas in and she fired up. Then filled up the empty front tank. Strange thing, she only wanted seven dollars again.Profanity Removed?

I put a few bucks in the rear tank, just to be sure I'd make it home.
I'm smelling gas like crazy. Gotta look into that as soon as I get home...

On my way home, on a six lane hiway, middle lane, major traffic, she dies. Anybody got a stick of TNT? Cop pushes me to an exit and I
Walk about a mile for gas. Get the truck back to the gas station and fill the rear tank. Problem is, if you get it any where near full, it leaks. Need a new filler hose. Been using the front tank because of that problem.

I get about three miles from home and she dies again. Turns out I had been leaking fuel profusely from the tank selector valve.

I called Western Auto. After waiting two weeks and being told many times that "It will be here tomorrow", I just cleaned up the old one and used plumbers tape on the threads.

She seems to run alright now. Actually starts much better. But now the darn fuel guages don't work, and I don't know why the front tank will only take about seven bucks of gasoline.

If you read this far, you really need more fun in your life, but thanks...

Any suggestions on the tank or the guages?

I know I can count on you folks!

 

The electrical signal wire to the fuel sending unit is grounding out.
Time for a complete diagnosis for the fuel system and that includes the supply too.When all of the fuel system is free from leaking the fuel mileage goes UP.

First go to the temperature sedning unit and check for an electrial pulse with the key ON. If it pulses the ICVR is good.

Now to go through the wiring of the fuel system.
Fuel divertor and gauge system.

Let me know when you're ready.


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Try this: Run a new piece of hose, a couple feet long, directly from the aux tank fuel line to the fuel pump line. Carry extra fuel in a can, and see how far you can go. This will tell you if the tank is actually full, when you say it won't take more than 7??? Listen to the fuel selector solenoid underneath for a light 'clunk' sound, when you switch tanks. This only works with the key in the 'on' position, not acc position. Sometimes the wire lead loses a good connection, or breaks right off.
My truck, when I bought it, had all the fuel hoses running from the solenoid all screwed up as to where they are to go. The solenoid is labeled 'P' for fuel pump, 'M' for main (or sometimes F) and 'A' for auxiliary front tank. I can't remember if it is stamped in the plastic part or on the steel body.
Mark


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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Jul-02 AT 02:22 PM (EST)]Oh man, I don't know what you guys are talking about... I understand the hose thing, but that's about it. Maybe I should just take it in and have a pro take a look. Not sure how to check the "pulse". Don't know what ICVR is. I'm worthless!

I'm not sure what you mean by a solenoid. The selector is just a mechanical valve. I didn't think there was anything else to it.???

I wish one of you guys lived near me. I have sooooo many problems.

I will have a more mechanically inclined person read your responses and see if he has a clue.

Thanks for the help, as always.

 

. Not sure
>how to check the "pulse". Don't know what ICVR is. I'm
>worthless!
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator: It is mounted behind the dash panel. You don't really need to know what it is, just how to test it. You can read voltage or 'pulse' from this by using the wire going to a sending unit, such as for your temperature sending unit, fuel level sending unit, etc.
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by a solenoid. The selector is
>just a mechanical valve. I didn't think there was anything
>else to it.??? A solenoid is a mechanical device operated by an electrical current fed from a switch. If there is no current going to it, the valve is set to run on the main fuel tank only. Applying 12 volts will activate the aux tank.
>Thanks for the help, as always.

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