does any one know the stock specs for the cams in a ford 360 from 1975... i.e. lift and duration

 

.427/.431 lift
192/199 duration at .05
256/266 advertsed
112/112 centerline
112 ls

 

thanks... I'm rebuilding my engine and looking at what i have and where i want to go... if anyone has any proven hints or lessons, any help is welcome

 

i am not sure what you are looking for but i will throw some stuff out there.

Carbs, holley is the majority favorite, 600cfm vac secondaried for stock/mild builds. Edelbrocks are for going slow and do need tuning at times.

Intakes, the edelbrock performer is junk!, the rpm is a good piece on the other hand. Blue thunder has a medium riser version for c8,d2 heads. Its about the best dual plane intake. AS for factory pieces the "T" and "s" intakes are similar in horsepower with the edge going to the "s" version.
Nobody likes the 2bbl or recommends them for a build. A 4bbl can get as much or more mileage under normal driving.

Ignition, the late 1974 and up duraspark works well over points, petronix or whoever sells a conversion kit.

Cams, depends on your planned usage.

pistons, truck pistons provide too low of compression and hurt power, gas mileage. FOR A 390 Something like 1.76 compression height pistons will work or "generic car pistons" they are advertised as 10:1 but in reality its a little lower with the fel pro gasket. For example I have cast 1131 silvolite pistons, a hyper or forged pistons would be an upgarde but are not really needed for a stock/mild build.

I realise you said you have a 360 and the pistons are different. THat brings me to the 390 upgrade, everyone like to do that and I recommend it also. Just need a 390 crank, rods, and pistons. You will buying pistons anyways. If you can't find any cranks or rods people on the forum will help. we have piles of fe parts lying around.lol

rods, the 390 and bigger engines use the "short rod" which measures 6.48 vs the "long rod" 6.54. The 360 has the long rod, and surprisingly it is rather whimpy. If you ever looking at them side be side you will throw the 360 rod in the trash can. Aftermarket are not needed.

cranks, most all cranks are cast and are suitable for many builds. As mentioned a 390 would be a good upgrade.

any other questions, just ask!

 

thanks... the truck that I'm gonna use is a rust bucket. it will prob. see most of its time driving around town, or for the most part wheel'n. I'm in alaska, and have to pass emitions. so, it will just be a mild build. all i want is a little more power. reliable is important. would you suggest a 390 upgrade and a mild cam (ex. 470/470 lift) then just bolt ons from there

 

yes to the 390, as for the cam, I prefer spilt pattern cams or one that favor the exhaust side with more lift and duration. Have you thought about any cams or not?

 

sorry the (470/470) was an example, the cams that i were looking at were "268/268 adv duration .494 .494 lift"

 

if you like comp cams then, i like the first two listings for extreme energy, I think the 2nd cam would be a better choice. 262/270 advertised duration.

 

would you suggest using the stock cam from the 390

 

I think they are the same camshaft! the specs I listed are for the 390.

 

oic... hey, what can i say... i'm new

 

I've looked a summit and the like, where would you go to to pick up the parts? Would you just pick the rebuild for a 390 stock, that "should" provide me most he parts i need short of the conecting rods.

 

I use summit racing a lot. and my machine shop, I tell them what to get. its hard to say what you need until certain things are in line. Like, you don't want to order a kit until you know what main and rod bearings are needed, and piston sizes. I personally don't think the kits offer a cost savings over individaul bought items.

the 390 parts will come from a donor engine or like I said we have spare parts.

clevite or federal mogul tri metal bearings are fine, so are standard or moly piston rings. Cast pistons will work.

Its best to have everything lined up before anything is purchased.

 

to find out the main and rod bearing sizes, i cant go with stock? do i need to go out and measure them to account for wear? I dont really understand what to do here. it seams a simple as buying a few 390 parts and installing them, but i'm sure its no wear near that easy.

 

well you would need all the machine work done first. if the crank is stock the machine shop may do a .010 on the crank and rods and maybe a .020 overbore on the cylinders. so you would need oversixe parts but do not buy them until you confirm the size.