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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy no power

i changed the wires and plugs in my 2002 ford explorer, i cross two wires with out realizing it and took the car for a RIDE the car was running rough but didn't sound like a miss. I then got on the car when the car lost power and would not go above 2000 rpms.when i got the car home i noticed the wires were crossed and switched them back, I tried the car again and the car still would not go above 2000 rpm's. The car starts fine an runs fine until you step on the gas and when the car gets to 2000 rpms it loses it's power. I checked for loose wire and vacume hoses but could not find any. after talking with a local speed shop owner it was decided to change the coil pack and guess what? it still loses power at 2000 rpm's. it almost seems as if the engines goes into a limp mode. i spoke to a tech at my local ford dealership and he said he never heard of this before, he suggested that i clear the cumputer, i did and this did not do anything. i put the car on a scanner several times and the car has not thrown any codes.

DOES ANY BODY HAVE ANY IDEA'S OR SUGGESTIONS THAT I CAN TRY?
OR CAN STEER ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.


THANKS,
GRNMOTO.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 07:24 AM
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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Maybe a couple broken plug insulators, new wires bad...something with what you changed last is where I would start. Otherwise, you messed something else up when you changed the plugs/wires. Could be something wird like a loose connection at the MAF sensor. If it's not sensing the airflow you won't get any gas...A small vacuum leak wouldn't cause somethign like this. Does it rev up in nuetral?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 10:54 AM
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thanks, jharger
In all my years i never had this problem,until they came out with all these sensors.
the new wires and plugs i have gone over a dozen times,how ever sometimes its hard to tell if you did get the plug insulator on or not.I am going to check the MAF sensor
for a good connection maybe try and clean it if its dirty, I did have the air tube off a few times. as far as a vacume leak I searched high and low and can primose you there is none. As far as rev. in nuetral, it will until it hits 2000 rpm's then it fill likes a rev. limiter kicks in and idiel it down, and if youtry to rev.it past 2000 rpm's, it will stall and be hard to restart as if it were flooded, any other idea's, I am bound and determined to fix this before it has to go to the dealership for repair.and besides with this being broke my wife is around the house WAY to much. THANK, GRNMOTO
 
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 11:05 AM
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Question Still In The Same Boat

thanks, jharger
In all my years i never had this problem,until they came out with all these sensors.
the new wires and plugs i have gone over a dozen times,how ever sometimes its hard to tell if you did get the plug insulator on or not.I am going to check the MAF sensor
for a good connection maybe try and clean it if its dirty, I did have the air tube off a few times. as far as a vacume leak I searched high and low and can primose you there is none. As far as rev. in nuetral, it will until it hits 2000 rpm's then it fill likes a rev. limiter kicks in and idiel it down, and if youtry to rev.it past 2000 rpm's, it will stall and be hard to restart as if it were flooded, any other idea's, I am bound and determined to fix this before it has to go to the dealership for repair.and besides with this being broke my wife is around the house WAY to much. THANK, GRNMOTO
 
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 12:32 PM
  #6  
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Well at least with the truck broke you can spend more time in the garage where few wifes dare to venture. You said you had the intake tube off. Is it back on correctly? I can see that if this is leaking a lot, the MAF could only see a little bit of air flow and then not tell the PCM to give more gas.

When it dies and is hard to start - put your gas foot all the way down on the floor. When the TPS hits wide open throttle, the PCM knows this is a signal that the engine is flooded and it will not juice up the injectors. This is a little know fact of Ford EEC computers. So if it then doe start up right away - bingo, we know we are going way to rich for some reason.

Other thing to check is the color and condition of the plugs. Right when it dies, pull some plugs and see if they are white and dry or black and wet - lean vs rich.

If you have a scanner, can you run it real time when the truck is running? if so, it probably has a selection for open/closed loop running. If it's fully warmed up and the O2's are switching correctly, it should be in closed loop operation. If it is in open loop, the PCM thinks your A/F mixture is off.

Just think about the basics here - since we have to codes to go on. Air, Fuel and Spark - need all 3 to make a motor run.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 05:21 AM
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thanks for the reply jharger.
your right about the garage, a bad day in the garage is better then a good day at work,and besides i keep a big pile of clutter by the door so she thinks its a big mess and she refuses to go in.
Away the intake hose has been off several time and i do check it every time it goes back on, to make sure that its correct.
After it stalls i'm pretty sure it does start back up after i put the peddle all down to the floor. But after work I'll check it to make sure.I will also check the plugs then too.
I will also try to check the scanner in real time,the only problem is i do not have the updated version of the cassette mine only goes to 2001, i tried to run it in generric mode but not to sure if its reading everything. somone also told me that i could also trick the computer and tell it that the vehicle is a 2001, but not sure if its the same or not. it seems that when ever i buy parts from 2001 to 2002 is a difference.

I will check your sugestions out after work. have to get ready for work.

Thanks for the info. talk to you soon. {Are you still a ford mech. or retired.}
If not mabey you should become one,
the ones at my local ford dealer don't
their ***'s from there elbows.
THANKS GRNMOTO.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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God no! I would never want to be associated with the morons at the Ford dealers - or any dealer for that matter. It's more that since they can't tell me what's wrong, I've always had to figure it out on my own. They never listen to the problem, say yeah, yeah, we're the experts, we'll fix it. And then say - could not duplicate problem, situation normal at this time - like I make up problems, take time off work and pay for a rental car because I have nothing better to do. Dealers are just worthless and it sucks that we have to use them for warranty. Would much rather use a shop of my chosing and have Ford reimburse the shop but it don't work that way.

Enough of the soap box.

As far as the scanner and configuring it as a 2001 vs 2002 - might work, might not. Different years changed car computer pin outs, control schemes, emmisions components... I just don't know if there were any deltas between those years.

I think you are talking about your scanner only being able to read the generic OBD-II codes and not the Ford specific ones. That's OK and I don't think it would make any difference in being ble to read real time data.

It would be a real good baseline to know if you are running in closed loop or not. If not, then your mixture is bad and that is waht we need to concentrate on. by the way, the limp mode the speed shop guy talked about is the open loop mode. It doesn't limit you to 2,000 RPM. It just uses a defined set of A/F and retarded spark advance curves that Ford thought would be "safe" if the O2's aren't doing their job. Check it all out here http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
 
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