Service Code Help
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From: South Texas
Service Code Help
My '87 Ranger (2.3l 4cyl, 5-spd) has been running rough at high speeds, bucking around, and it tries to die when I try to take off in 1st gear when the engine is cold.
I ran a test and got the following trouble codes in the KOER portion: 12, 34 and 13. As far as the 12 goes, I noticed that the engine stuttered before it went WOT, not sure why. The 34 seems to relate to an EGR problem and the symptom that my manual lists is detonation. Could that be what I'm feeling at high speeds? I'm not sure I understand the code 13. Any help explaining these would be appreciated. I ran the test twice and got the same codes.
I ran a test and got the following trouble codes in the KOER portion: 12, 34 and 13. As far as the 12 goes, I noticed that the engine stuttered before it went WOT, not sure why. The 34 seems to relate to an EGR problem and the symptom that my manual lists is detonation. Could that be what I'm feeling at high speeds? I'm not sure I understand the code 13. Any help explaining these would be appreciated. I ran the test twice and got the same codes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
The 12 & 13 are IAC related codes, the computer is having problems controling the idle speed. Was it up to proper temperature, you haven't messed with the screw on the throttle body?
The 34 is EGR but I'm not familar with the system you have but I want to say it's a problem with the EVP for some reason.
The 34 is EGR but I'm not familar with the system you have but I want to say it's a problem with the EVP for some reason.
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It was at the proper tempurature, and I haven't messed with the screw on the throttle body. Maybe my IAC is outta whack? I cleaned it recently, but my truck does exhibit loud noise and erretic idle every once in a while. The 'foghorn' type noise I've noticed two or three times.
As for the code 34, my Chiltons says it could be caused by EGR solenoid problems, wire harness problems, or ECA problems. So you may be right on there. If the EGR isn't functioning properly could it cause the symptoms my truck is suffering? Is there any way to test the solenoid for proper functionality? If I unplug the electrical connector from the EGR valve will that disable the system and allow things to run properly until I can fix the problem?
As for the code 34, my Chiltons says it could be caused by EGR solenoid problems, wire harness problems, or ECA problems. So you may be right on there. If the EGR isn't functioning properly could it cause the symptoms my truck is suffering? Is there any way to test the solenoid for proper functionality? If I unplug the electrical connector from the EGR valve will that disable the system and allow things to run properly until I can fix the problem?
Last edited by irishguyincc; Sep 22, 2005 at 09:29 PM.
Mountain Pass
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How's your fuel and exhaust pressure ? I just fought a code 41, lean, and it was the fuel line linking the intank pump with the output tube being melted. Finished that and got a code 32, EGR etc. Removed the cat and put in a test pipe and got a code 34 (same as a 32) according to my chart. I finally got to drive it long enough (about 12 miles) and the codes went away. btw: I'd interchanged all the sensors except the O2 but I did run a product called "pass emissions or your money back", about $6, from Pepboys. 3rd vehicle it straightened out. Good luck.
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My fuel pressure and exhaust are fine, I've checked that recently trying to figure stuff out. Can I temporarily disable the EGR system so I can give it a test drive and see if the problem goes away?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
It couldn't hurt to replace the IAC, I always hate to replace things without know for sure there bad but....
If the elecrical connection controls the EGR valve give it a try.
Drop me an email if you want the pinpoint tests for any of these codes, just remind me about your truck & codes.
If the elecrical connection controls the EGR valve give it a try.
Drop me an email if you want the pinpoint tests for any of these codes, just remind me about your truck & codes.
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There is an electrical connector going to the EGR valve so I assume that it needs power to operate, is that correct? Or does it only need vacuum to operate? Should I pull the vacuum line off of the EGR valve as well?
The EGR setup is an EGR valve mounted on the upper intake with an electrical plug on the bottom and a vacuum tube that runs to an electrical switch component mounted on the passenger side fenderwall.
The EGR setup is an EGR valve mounted on the upper intake with an electrical plug on the bottom and a vacuum tube that runs to an electrical switch component mounted on the passenger side fenderwall.
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I unhooked the plug and the vacuum line and the truck ran great for a 12 mile drive, mostly highway. Then on the way back several hours later it did the same stuff again only not as violently as usual, like it's missing at high speeds. Tonight it also did this at lower speeds. Another problem I've noticed is that my truck tends to buck when I let off the gas pedal to shift gears, this is a new problem that I've noticed around the same time I've been having all this other trouble. Could a malfunctioning IAC be causing any of these problems?
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Today I tried unhooking the battery to clear the computer memory, in hopes that it might change things with the EGR disconnected. When I drove my truck it tried to die for a bit after I drove about a quarter mile, then ran just fine for about a 10 mile drive on the highway. I suppose I'll test it out some more to see if this cured the problem. Any ideas with this or the bucking my truck is doing everytime I let off the gas pedal would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm trying to test my IAC for a short to the solenoid case. When I try to test this with my ohm meter I get nothing. I've tried using both terminals and both leads on my DVOM but I get nothing. Just for fun I tried to test the IAC on my wife's Taurus which I know is good and I didn't get anything from that one either.
The test says to set DVOM on 200.00 scale and measure resistance from either IAC soleniod pin to the IAC housing. Resistance should be greater than 10K ohms. I don't get any resistance readings when I try this. Any tips out there?
The test says to set DVOM on 200.00 scale and measure resistance from either IAC soleniod pin to the IAC housing. Resistance should be greater than 10K ohms. I don't get any resistance readings when I try this. Any tips out there?
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For now I've disabled the EGR valve to eliminate that problem. I'm afraid I don't follow some of the instructions in the pinpoint test, particularly the first step in the code 34 test.
When I try to test the IAC for a short no matter what I do my ohm meter just has a 1 on the screen. I tried switching around what I was touching, etc, all to no avail.
The problem seems to have eased somewhat since I've disabled the EGR valve but it is still there. It only seems to start to sputter once the engine is warmed up, maybe when the computer goes into it's closed loop?
I've also noticed that the distributor and TFI module are extremely hot to the touch after a drive. Is this normal? The module is new but the distributor is the original.
When I try to test the IAC for a short no matter what I do my ohm meter just has a 1 on the screen. I tried switching around what I was touching, etc, all to no avail.
The problem seems to have eased somewhat since I've disabled the EGR valve but it is still there. It only seems to start to sputter once the engine is warmed up, maybe when the computer goes into it's closed loop?
I've also noticed that the distributor and TFI module are extremely hot to the touch after a drive. Is this normal? The module is new but the distributor is the original.