Hey guys, it's been a while since I posted on here. I'm having a problem starting my truck and it seems to be related to the clutch. Over the past month or so I've had to push the clutch in really hard to start it, but the actual clutch works fine. As of tonight it won't start, probably due to the sensor for the clutch. I seem to remember someone posting about a plastic part that wears out and causes this problem, so I would appreciate it if anyone could post the part #, how to change it, and if possible, how to deactivate the clutch sensor temporarily so I can drive to the parts store to get the replacement part. My truck is a 1997 with a 5-speed BTW. Thanks for your help.

John

 

hey john,

bushing......http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWDVW

when i put this in i pull the shaft out of the truck and line the old hole up with the hiem to get a perfect cut. then never need to worry about it again i would use some rtv on the screw so it dosnt vibrate out. and periodically lube it. works like a charm

clutch switch. jumper over white/pink and the red/blue wire. i actually have a momentary switch up on the dash to bypass this when i want.

 

So just wire those two together with a switch and it will fire?

Thanks for the info BTW.

 

When's the last time that clutch system was flushed with fresh fluid?

It may make all the difference in the world.

 

I can't remember, but it wasn't that long ago and the clutch itself isn't that old.

 

yeah wire them two togethor and that will bypass the switch.

ive got a momentary switch on the dash runnning off thoose two wires to have a switch bypass.

i bet the bushing is wore out so the switch isnt thinkin the rod is traveling far enough.

 

That's what I figured, but I've never worked on the clutch myself so I didn't know where to start. Thanks for the help.

 

I had that same problem with my 95 earlier this year. Found some info on Steve Baz's page that helped out quite a bit. Of course, this was before I saw the replacement part that barebackjake mentioned. Here's the excerpt of the article that helped me. Hope it helps you too.

Difficulty Shifting, and / or Low Clutch Engagement

by Keith Carpentractor
Go To the Original Article

Many of the 1994-1997 F-Series 5 Speed owners have complained about Clutch Problems. The symptoms of many of these complaints are:

· Pedal needs to be pushed into the floor to allow starter to engage, · Difficulty getting the transmission into gear from start, · low clutch pedal engagement and also · noticeably harder shifting between gears, with possible grinding on downshifts.

People with these symptoms often ask if there is an adjustment on the clutch, or in the clutch linkage to rectify this situation. There is no such adjustment. While these symptoms can indicate a number of possible problems the most common problem causing all these symptoms is probably going to cost you no more than $10 dollars. Here is a simple fix that most people can do themselves.

On the 1994-1997 F-Series Manual Transmission Trucks, these symptoms are most likely due to a worn clutch master cylinder bushing. This bushing lies in the eye of the clutch master rod. This rod is located just above the accelerator pedal. The bushing in question is made of plastic nylon, and when it wears out, the eye of the clutch master rod will typically slip on the clutch linkage pin about 1/8th of an inch. That 1/8th inch at the linkage translates to about 1 inch to 1 ½ inch loss of travel at the pedal. Thus your clutch will either be partially engaged or it will engage with the pedal only traveling a ¼ inch from the floor. If the truck is a 1994 to 1995 the clutch master rod was manufactured as a plastic rod. Continued use of the clutch while the linkage is misaligned can result in the plastic clutch master rod breaking in two. While I have never heard of the metal rod in the 96-97 trucks ever breaking I would not recommend continuing use as the bushing wears out very quickly when misaligned and there is bound to be metal wear at some point in the near future. This is covered in more detail later in this article.

To fix this problem: Members of this site have come up with a couple of modifications to the original equipment to rectify this problem. First you need to do is go to the local Ford house and purchase Ford Part # E69Z7526A, crowned bushing. Usually they are made of white plastic but some are said to have come in black. They run the better part of $3 each. The consensus from the membership at Ford-Diesel.com is that just replacing the worn bushing will solve your problem initially but the same problem is likely to recur within a month. Many of us have solved the recurrence problem by insuring the proper alignment of the clutch linkage pin and the clutch master cylinder rod.

The way to insure the proper alignment of these components involves a little modification. You first start with clipping off the crown portion of the bushing with a sharp razor blade or razor knife. The bushing is then installed in its normal manner. First the bushing is placed in the clutch master rod eye and then it is slid onto the clutch linkage pin. The trick is to find a way to keep the rod and bushing from sliding off the Clutch linkage pin. There are two basic ways to accomplish this.

1. The easiest and least expensive way: Purchase a 5/16" E-Clip that will fit in the groove at the end of the clutch linkage that holds the clutch master rod in place. Also purchase two 5/16 “ washers, 1 Teflon/plastic and 1 metal to be placed between the E-Clip and the clutch master rod. A 7/16” drill stop or collar bushing will also work in place of an e-clip you will Not be able to fit any washers on the pin though. This is what I used.

2. Another way is slightly more labor intensive but just as inexpensive. This one was submitted to me by Ray Varnadore. He took the picture you see on the left. Install the Rod and bushing as stated onto the clutch linkage pin. Then place one metal washer against the clutch master rod while on the pin and mark a location to drill a very small hole. Find a small cotter pin and drill the appropriate hole through the Clutch linkage pin so that it will be flush with the washer. An old Chevrolet shift linkage clip may be easier to remove and reinstall if ever the bushing were to need replacement again. It will also keep tension on the washer keeping it firmly in place. Ray said he drilled the hole with a variable speed hand held drill.

In the event that the Plastic clutch master cylinder rod has broken, you will be compelled to do one of two things to make the repair. You will either purchase a new clutch master cylinder, or you could find a metal clutch master rod and modify it (grinding) to fit the existing old style clutch master. Well if you figure you will just suck it up and buy the Master, well there is a problem: If you choose to purchase a new clutch master cylinder you will be forced to purchase three additional hydraulic clutch components, to the tune of $350. The reason for this is that Ford no longer sells a direct replacement for the original clutch master cylinder. They sell an “improved” replacement clutch master that uses a steel rod. (This clutch master is the one currently used on 1996- 1997 Manual Transmission F-Series’.) It is entirely incompatible with the hydraulic clutch components that are in your truck. Unfortunately, if you choose this route, this fix is going to involve bringing a shopping bag to the dealer because this is what you will need to get you shifting again:

· New Clutch master cylinder with metal rod Ford Part # F2TZ7A543D
· New Slave cylinder Ford Part # E3TZ7A564A
· New Neutral Safety Switch Ford Part # FF57Z11A152A
· New High Pressure Line Ford Part #. F5TZ7A512A

One good thing about the 1996 – 1997 F-Series is that the metal rod is unlikely to break but if it does the only replacement part needed would be the Clutch master cylinder. Or find a rod in a junkyard.

So it may behoove you to keep an eye out for rod misalignment or just spend a couple of bucks and beat it to the punch.

I want to give thanks to Ray Varnadore, Steve Klein and any other Ford-Diesel.com member who contributed to help make this article possible.

 

Good to see you posting again JD. Sticking around for a while?

 

Thanks. I'm going to try, but I've been real busy this past year.


OK, that bypass switch worked like a charm and I got my truck back home. When I went to leave for the parts store the clutch bottomed out and the pedal is now on the floor. I'm guessing that it's not just the bushing and I need a new clutch master cylendar at this point, or do I?

 

Can you pop the clutch back up easily? If yes then either the master or slave is probably blown and will need replacing. If the pedal is stuck to the floor and you are unable to move it the the fork might have broken, or the disc lost a spring that got jammed up in there.....mechanical problem of some sort.

 

Yes, I can pop the pedal back up. I've never done any clutch work myself. How do I go about changing it?

 

ok....heres the deal, mine did EXACTLY that. the clutch just went POP and to the floor right? if so, the bushing finally came off fromthe master cylender. if you look under the dash, you'll see the rod from the cylender is seperated fromthe clutch. get a small cotter pin, drill the arm that comes off the clutch peddle to teh rod, and stick the cotter pinthrough there for a quick fix. i did that a while back and need to look and make sure all is well with it. good luck. if you need anything more, PM me

on edit, hopefully thats what the problem is and not a broken master. you'll be able to tell as soon as you crawl under the dash and have a look.

 

Thanks a lot. I'll check it out first thing tomorrow morning, and I hope that's all it is.

 

If RedStroker's suggestion doesn't fix it and the hydraulics have gone out, you can get the whole system (master cylinder, slave, reservoir, and tubing) assembled and pre-bled from Ford for about $130

The part # for 99+ is 2c3z-7c522-CA, I think the 94-97 hydraulic system is the same, but I'm not positive.