changing gears
Cargo Master
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You should consider having a competent shop perform this job.
It is beyond the scope of the average shade tree mechanic.
Differentials are picky about tolerances and torques.
The special tools you would need may cost more than the shop will charge for labor.
It is beyond the scope of the average shade tree mechanic.
Differentials are picky about tolerances and torques.
The special tools you would need may cost more than the shop will charge for labor.
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Well I am in school to be a mechanic so this was going be a project for class. I got the info thanks. I have a 3.08 in there now, and now i just need to know if the 3.73 or 4.10 would be the best way to go. I am building a rig to go wheeling in. Thanks
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Last edited by bryang; Sep 21, 2005 at 11:12 AM.
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I couldn't find the tag on the tranny, but in the safety decal it says K and a 63 stamped on the pan. The numbers on the T-case is:
A259 3 1356-31 102201 E9TA-PA. No idea what that means except its a 3 spd with OD.
A259 3 1356-31 102201 E9TA-PA. No idea what that means except its a 3 spd with OD.
Last edited by bryang; Sep 21, 2005 at 04:32 PM. Reason: add more info.
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From: Gateway to the West
'93 automatic with a Borg-Warner 1356 t-case (thats the serial number you have in your post)... its most likely an E4OD tranny. McLeod is right, anything 3.92 and up will require a different carrier in the front Dana 44 axle.
I would follow Kemical burns suggestion on the gearing if you plan on going up to 35's. 33's will work nicely with 4.10's but 35's really need the 4.56's to keep engine rpm's up where they should be. If you plan on serious wheeling, the 4.88's will be much better for crawling. The nice thing is that you can afford to go a little taller on the gears since you have the OD transmission and not worry nearly as much about fuel mileage drop as you would with a non-overdrive transmission.
I would follow Kemical burns suggestion on the gearing if you plan on going up to 35's. 33's will work nicely with 4.10's but 35's really need the 4.56's to keep engine rpm's up where they should be. If you plan on serious wheeling, the 4.88's will be much better for crawling. The nice thing is that you can afford to go a little taller on the gears since you have the OD transmission and not worry nearly as much about fuel mileage drop as you would with a non-overdrive transmission.
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I just looked up a mechanic's site we get through school that I didn't know we had, and according to the tranny pan identification it is a C6. Is that better or worse than an E4OD. If I am not mistaken the 1356 is pretty good because it has a 2.69 low gear. Also I am sorry because I meant To put Bronco not F-150. (blush) I have two projects going on at same time. Really sorry bout that.
Last edited by bryang; Sep 21, 2005 at 06:37 PM. Reason: add info.
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It CAN'T be a C6...they were three-speed autos... no overdrive! The C6 is two generations older than the E4OD and shifts via a vacuum regulator. The E4OD is fully electronic. To the best of my knowledge, the M5OD and the E4OD were the only tranny options after 1991. The mechanically (TV cable) shifted AOD was the immediate successor to the C6 and the first overdrive transmission ever availabe in the Bronco. The E4OD followed later (late 80's early 1990).
Last edited by greystreak92; Sep 21, 2005 at 06:38 PM.
