First, thank you for advice on my 2001 4.6 2wd hesistation at 40-50 mph. I changed the plugs, tested the coils and although increased performance has been noted, the shutter still exists. I will move on to the advice instructing me to change the trans fluid.
I read so many posts about what and what not to do that I am confused! Will replacing the pan fluid/filter offer any recourse to the sypmtons?
Is removing the return line at the tranny and starting the motor to remove all the fluid the best action?
I am a do it myself kinda of guy and wish to avoid pricey flush and fill shops if I can gain the same results with a little hard work.
Again, thanks to this website or I would be lost...

 

I believe that dropping the pan is the best. You can clean it out that way.

 

On my 99 EB 4WD, every 24 months I drain the fluid, drop the pan, change the filter and clean off the magnets (shavings from the tranmission collect there - not alot but enough to want it cleaned). and put it back together w/ a new filter and gasket. I then drain the torque converter; there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the bellhousing, removing this you can turn the converter until the drain plug is pointing down. By draining the TC, the amount of transmission fluid needed when you refil goes from about 4-6 quarts (can't remember) to almost 10 or more. I figure that the more fluid I get out the better off it will be.

As for the shudder; this probably has nothing to do with it but on my truck it started shuddering (I guess you'd call it) at light throttle in the same speed range. pushing further on the gas pedal would make it go away, and the idle was fine too. It turned out to be a bad EGR control valve; it was letting too much exhaust gas back into the engine at that 30-50mpg range under light throttle, causing the motor to choke slightly and feel like it was shuddering. At first I thought it was the transmission, but thankfully it was not.

 

Thanks, did your egr valve problem generate an engine code? I am starting to wonder what is going on with mine. The trans shift smoothly and orginally at the 40-50 range I felt the shudder. Now, when I use a light throttle such as from a stop in the 0-30 range I get a hesitation, like the motor is choking. The trans continues to shift smoothly.
I am wondering if the fuel pump or fuel pump regulator is acting up. I also don't believe this problem is in addition to the higher speed shudder.

I have since changed the plugs, check resistance on each COP, all checked ok, air/fuel both dirty.
Still no code set, so even if it is a bad COP under a load the computer has yet to catch it.
I am baffled I have to say. First higher speeds and now lower speeds. Today the lower speed issue presented itself with frequency but doesn't mean tomorrow it will act the same. Any comments welcomed.

 

Shudder on mine especially going up hill was caused by the transfer case, on my 00 Model it's called a TOD transfer case. (Torque on Demand) it has 2 quarts of regular Mercon in it and my expy had 126K on it and I'm sure it was original Tranny fluid in it as well, soon as I changed it the symptoms went away and my performance went way up!! Averaging 15.1 mpg right now and I'm more than happy with it..

 

I do not believe that it generated an error code or check engine light. But, it was a few years ago and I can't remember. I know that at first it did not; it may have lit later because otherwise I don't think I would have found it.

 

I too had a shudder at low speeds. Trasfer case made all the differnce, and an eashy fluid switch out as well.

 

when you drain the torque convertor pan and ready to refill will there be any bad that will happen to the transmission or torque convertor on initial start up from the torque convertor not being full???

 

also how do you turn the torque convertor to get to the drain plug on the torque convertor.

 

bump for me needing my questions answered. lol

 

To answer your questions, this is where a partner comes in handy. While one of you looks in the hole where you removed the rubber plug on the transmission, the other one turns the motor by using a ratchet with a 17 or 18mm socket on the crankshaft pulley of the motor (easiest from underneath the truck). As he turns, you will eventually see the torque converter drain plug staring at you. Not sure what size socket you need for that one either but remove the plug and drain it. Whole procedure is pretty easy. As far as empty torque converter damage, there wont be any. After you put it all back together and add fluid, (Haynes manual says it has 15.9 qt capacity for 2wd 16.4qt for 4wd) it will pump in there within seconds of you starting the motor.

 

thank you sir.

 

by the way it says on the pan it's a reusable gasket. so uhmmm is it best to get another gasket??? also is there any sealant or anything that goes on the gasket?? or do you just un bolt it and bolt it back up when done??

 

nope just re torque the old one. also some trannies do not have a drain plug on the t/c that feature was deleted after 03.

 

So guys since we are the topic of transmission flushes I might as well ask my question. My 4X4 expy has now close to 92K on it (I've owned it since 85K) and I was wandering if it is a smart thing for me to have the tranny either flushed or just replace the fluid in the tranny along with the possibly a new tranny filter? I know its probably a smart thing to do but what I am worried about is if after I do so will the tranny start slipping then just go out all together? I cant aford to replace the tranny at this time if something were to happen, plus its my daily driver too. Am I safe if I do it or should I just forget about it?

Shane