Greetings: Need some help from the "smart people" out there....

I want to install a second 7-pin receptacle in the bed of my 2005 F350 Super Duty in order to keep from having to run the wiring harness from my 5th Wheel across the tailgate to the standard 7-pin receptacle below the bumper.

Now here's the trick... I'm cautious of "slicing" into the factory wiring and wondered if there was a "plug-n-play" adapter that plugs into where the factory plug connects to the wiring harness that allows a second harness to be routed to another location (like the bed of the truck).

Just don't want to "splice" into wires and screw something up.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

I went through the same thing in my 2005 F350 as well just a few months ago. I did not find any plug and play type of harness. I did find a 7 pin receptacle at camping world that has the 7 way wiring already hooked up, shrink wrapped and giving about 5 ft of cable. This made half the job easier. I dropped the spare tire to have better access. I then matched the wires coming of the factory 7 pin to the color code on the new harness. Do not match up color to color. The Ford harness and the universal harness do not use the same colors for each function. I spliced using the in-line splices. Then I used the liquid electrical tape to seal the connections once I knew everything was working. Lastly, I wrapped it all up with electrical tape and zip tied up the wires. Hope this helps

 

I installed a second plug in the box of my 04 E-350 by splicing in under the hood there should be a post on how it was done in the archives.

 

I thought I had seen some aftermarket harnesses which T into the existing harness above the bumper. These harnesses were designed for trucks which didn't have the OEM trailer plugs, but had provisions for them. If it wasn't all a dream, then it would be a case of unplugging the factory T and adding a second harness and then reconecting the original.

 

I haven't seen any tee's like you are wanting, would make life easier though. I used a project box, but a buss bar inside of it and used spade connectors. It made for a nice clean install, along with a good distribution point. I personally am not a fan of the wire taps that are commonly used, they don't make the contact that I would like. Especially on the brake and charge line, where the current going through the connection can get well above 10 amps. Most are fused at 30 amps. Also, you can remove the pig tail from underneath and wire everything up on a bench, it will make it easier. I also would recomend 7 conductor trailer wiring that has larger gauge wire for ground, charge and brake.

 

Do the 06's have Pig tails in the frame rail for 2nd 7 prong connector??

 

No pigtail on my 2006, you will have to splice. If you have the long bed the center stake bed pocket has plenty of room on the side for the plug to be installed there up under the bed rail and out of the way. It wont interfere with the pocket at all.

 

I have an 05 F250PSD and simply removed the complete electrical 7-pin BRACKET from where it is and snaked it under the tailgate to the driver's side rear tie down. Removed the tie down and drilled holes to match the bumper 7-pin BRACKET and just remounted it to the tie down bracket. Now have plenty of cable to do a tight 360 in either direction!! Best thing, didn't cost a dime!

Bud Pytko
2005 F250 PSD 4X4 CC Long Bed
1994 30' Prowler 5th Wheel
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII

 

They sell these at Napa for the new body style trucks.

 

I just did this last week on my 04. I bought some 7-conductor wire and a 7-pin socket from the RV store. On the 04 fromt he frame to the bumper is a detachable harness. Pretty simple to remove, open the conductor splice and solder the new cord in. (Yep, the color code is different between the factory and the actual 7-pin colors.) And the best thing about connecting into the detachable harness - - its easly to replace if something fails or whatever, no damage to the truck's main harness.

 

Since no one has mentioned it yet, I'll pipe in. On my old F-150 (7700#)
I had a truck bed connector installed as part of the 5th hitch addition, and
it worked quite well. I was however always annoyed with having to drop
the tailgate to hitch up or offload (or to "remember" to do so...).

Then I bought a Honda Generator, and discovered that in the short bed,
there was very little room for it, and worse yet, it would have to be put
forward of the hitch - painful 150 lb lift, and unless perfectly along the
midline, in danger of being bumped by the front edge of the trailer in a turn.
I had to find a better place, so I welded up a small hitch platform to go
on the standard receiver, so the generator sits under the 5th trailer front
overhang, but lower and directly behind the truck. Worked great - only
difficulty now was I'd have to lift the generator in place <i>after</i>
hooking up the 5th... (because now the tailgate couldn't be dropped down).

Solution:
In the end I just removed the tailgate (left it at home) when pulling the 5th.
And with the tailgate gone, there is no need for a separate bed connector.
The cable can be plugged in to the standard receptacle. A spring or short
stretch tie can be attched so that the cable doesn't flop down over the open
end of the truck, and tight turns are not an issue since there is plenty of
slack to work with without the tailgate interfering.

So if you don't use your bed for storing gear (or would only use the front
part), removing your tailgate might be an (inexpensive) option. Now that
I've got a newer beast (F350), I'll not need to think about installing a bed
receptacle [nor worry about hitting anything while loading or unloading].

( just my 2 cents - sorry for the extended story :-) - generator platform
pic can be found in my gallery.

 

black350, I like the generator mount location, how much clearance do you have during turns? Also have you though about putting a hook or something on the fifth wheel that you could use a come along or small electric winch on? that would save your back in the long run. Specially if you are removing it lots.

 

hi cangim,

6 or 7 inches clearance - loads of room in any angular direction (both
in turns and up and down).

I only lift the generator on once, and then just leave it attached for
the whole trip (normally I put a cover tarp on it when on the road to
protect it). When I need to use it, I'll just back the truck up close to
the 5th and plug in.

 

Well thats good news, I was going to build a similar tray and put it on the back of the trailer. But think that it would not be bothered as much if it was between the two.

 

Hi cangim,

Depends of course on the generator size and what free space you might have between truck and trailer.

With this diagram, it will be easier to visualize and set some measurements
up ( from the center of your king-pin latch). Importantly, the diameter for the
generator is measured/calculated from it's rearward corners:

( drat - in the diagram read 'radius' instead of 'diameter')