Howdy, I need to do an oil change on the beast 92'-4L ext with 280,000 kms on it, and I was just wondering since it is running so darn well, has anyone had experience with the synthetic oils available?, and if so how do they preform, and is there an advantage of using them? I want to keep this puppy running as long as possible, 'cause I am going to be hard pressed to replace it with anything even remotely as pleasing as this one has been...Any thoughts on the oil would be greatly appreciated...thanks Tom

 

I have been using synthetic for years and its in my 95 Aerstar with 235,000 miles no leaks.

 

I have two Aeros, each with well over 200K and have been using synthetic for quite a few years. No leaks and no usage between changes. I usually use Motorcraft oil filters, but sometimes an EL CHEAPO gets put on. I stay away from the orange ones, though!!!

 

Just a quick caution about changing to synthetic oil. Synthetic oil cleans the engine and could clog your oil filter if you aren't careful. I have changed three high mileage vehicles over to synthetic and am probably a little too conservative, however, I haven't lost an engine like I've heard from other people. I do a complete change of the oil and filter. After driving with the synthetic for 500 miles, I change the filter and add a quart. I drive an additional 1000 miles, change the filter and add a quart.

 

Just a thought......... by the "orange one's" (filters), I take it you mean fr*m, I used to work in the plant that made them years back and thought that the quality was very good, ( I was in Q.C. and worked on an old tester called the water buffalo), I was in Crappy Tire to-day and saw the synthetic filters by fr*m and a high milage by Valvol**e, but did not see a choice for any other type...suggestions???... where a good "ol canadian boy might find the correct filter??

 

I think synthetics will not clean you engine any more than many other high detergent oils will, as most modern oils contain a high degree of detergents.
I have used synthetic oil almost from the time it first came out, or at least from the early '70's. It was made by Mobil, and I guess I was what you would call a Beta testor. It was not called Mobil 1 at that time, just Mobil synthetic. I have used it in every thing I own up till now. Even my riding lawn mower. My air compressor. My squirt can has it.
Need I say more? and I use Motorcraft filters where applicable.

 

synthetic for me, been using it in everything i own for over ten years, no problems just good service and extra long life.

 

The problem with F*am, is that they start to break down over time, often long before they are due, and the little fibers can get pulled into the oil passages, or worse yet, into the bearings. While the bearings can absorb small particles, too much of it and they can fail. Also, he fibers can get into the valve lifters and the camshaft and raise Cain too.

Now, my take on Synthetic, go for it, I use it in most of my vehicles. Don't use it in a vehicle that consumes oil, as synthetic is an awefully expensive oil to waste. Also, yes, Synthetic can sometimes leak from an engine that doesn't leak conventional oil. The reason for this is simple. YOUR SEALS ARE WORN. They are near the end of their useful life, and they will soon start leaking dino oil too.

One more thing. Do not use synthetic in new engines. It arrests the break in process, and if that happens, the engine will ultimately be ruined. The #1 thing that actually causes an engine to fail (loss of compression, worn rings, sticky valves, worn seals, etc.), is a faulty break in. Synthetic can make this worse. If the rings do not seat when new, they will never seat, and the resulting oil contamination will damage the engine over time.

 

A full true "Synthetic" 100% PAO ester based engine oil such as Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, French Motul; main attribute is that they handle high engine heat and heavy engine loads well without breakdown.
The Aerostar is notorious for overheating and poor powertrain compartment cooling air flow.
If one is towing, carrying heavy loads, driving in ambient temps over 80d or lots of mountain driving, full synthetic is called for and the pay off is long engine life.

Standard name brand "Dino Fat" oil is perfect for the Aero that spends it's life as a light duty passenger vehicle with 3k oil/filter changes.

I used to use Castrol "Syntec" thinking it was a full real synthetic engine oil, it's only a highly refined Group III "Dino Fat" oil.
I now use Mobil 1, 5W30 year around, with Purolator Premium or Pure 1 filter (they make Motorcraft filters), 10 oz's of Valvoline Engine Oil Treatment for extra antiwear additives and 5 oz's of LC engine cleaner/anti corrosive with 1oz add every 1000 miles and 7k mile oil changes.
Towing and summer driving over 90d F. 4L runs better than new.

 

(Lots of snippage)

Fram has cardboard end caps and the least amount of media of any other filter. Yet, you are paying the most. I guess the advertising is costly.

As for synthetic oil leakage, this thinking started when synthetic was first introduced. The first synthetics that were marketed were the thin grades, so if you put thin oil in an engine that used to have thicker oil in it, it would leak oil. Yea, if your seals are worn and you leak with conventional oil, you will leak with synthetic also.

As to the synthetic in a new engine, you will have to argue that with the Corvette engineers. Mobil 1 has been installed at the factory in new Corvettes for quite a few years now.

 

I have 3 Aerostars, 95 3.0/347,000miles, 97 3.0/299,000and 97 4.0/412,00 miles. These are used by Service techs in our business. I use only Mobil 1 5/30 full synthetic, change every 10,000 miles (easy to remember!). NEVER had any engine trouble and they don't burn oil (honest). Full synth. is the way to go.

 

Cheers ....thanks for the info....going to give the sync" a try......I will keep the world posted..Tom

 

Yes, what you say about the Corvette haveing synthetic is true. however, you have not posted the full truth, and therefore that comment is deceptive, and you have been decieved by your source. The fact that the Corvette comes with full synthetic in and of itself does not mean anything. The Corvette is already broken in from the factory. And when the engineers at GM broke it in, they used regualr dino oil. They also loaded the engine on a dynometer, and ran it hard for about 15 minutes. It breaks the engine in very quickly, and very effectively. IF I bought a Corvette, I would change the oil to regular dino oil, and use that for the next 15-20k miles. I would then switch to a full synthetic.

Before someone makes claims about useing full synthetic being used in new cars, you should also note, that not all cars do, and every one that does, comes broken in for you. The fact that they come with synthetic is not the reason those engines are dependable, or long lasting, the dyno break in is the reason they last longer. The synthetic is installed because now the engineers feel confident that the consumer doesn't need to break in the vehicle, and they don't have to worry about your driveing habits. Is your vehicle requires a break in, do not use synthetic, because it will arrest the break in process, and ultimately shorten the vehicles life. The reason is, the synthetic is too slippery, and the metal parts inside the engine need to wear down till they seal properly. If you use synthetic, the parts will polish before they wear, and there will be these gaps between that parts that will never be corrected, and exhaust gases and raw fuel can escape past the rings through these gaps, and get into the oil. The result is oil contamination, and that is the whole reason we even have to change our oil as often as we do. The oil is getting overly contaminated. This contamination produces acids, that corroded and pit the metal components inside the engine. This ultimately leads to engine failure further down the road. Almost all true engie failures can be traced to an improper or arrested break in. These problems include: low compression due to worn rings, scuffed cylinder walls, sticky valves, carbon deposits, etc.) While you may disagree with me, almost anyone can agree, it is better to be safe than sorry. Do not use synthetic in new engines.

 

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I agree. Currently, I am using 4 1/2 quarts of 5w30 Royal Purple Oil, in my 3.0 V6 Aerostar, which just turned 140,000 miles. Fl400s Motorcraft Oil Filters. Great oil, no leaks, and overall smooth performance. Sure, there is cheaper dino oil, but the few dollars difference are not going to break me. Then others, feel thick 15w40 diesel oil is the best thing to run in a gasoline, emissions controlled engine. The cold, thick oil, is detrimental in several areas. Perfect for a diesel, but not a modern v6 or v8. Mobil 1 is what I will resume using (5w30) in my Aerostar. The modern day Mobil 1 is a very good oil, and I can't help but notice at new car shows in the winter time, all of the "Mobil 1" logos seen on oil caps of new Ford, GM, DamlierChrysler (The HEMI SRT-8 300Cs & Hemi Charger SRT-8 I saw at the state fair last month, all calling for Mobil 1) and scads of new Jaguars, BMW's, Audi's, Bentleys, and many more manufacturers with "Mobil 1" logos on their new, factory fresh, engines. Lastly, my high school senior son, is using Mobil 1 10w30 (not EP) in his high mileage 1974 Dodge Dart, with a 318. Purolator Oil Filters. No leaks, no oil usage, and the solid little Dart runs at 60-65 MPH effortlessly. The only thing we've noticed with the 318, is at about the 3,000 mile mark, the Mobil 1 is a dark golden hue, but still feels very slippery, and useful. I like Mobil 1, and will continue to use it. Ed

 

an oil darkening in color as mileage on OCI goes up only indicates one thing, the oil cleaner and detergent additives are doing their designed job, keeping the engine internally clean.