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Just purchased a 1986 F250 with the 300IL. As I am going through it trying to figure out what I have got, I noticed that I am leaking exhaust from an outlet in the spacer plate under the carb.(1BBL). It appears that the outlet is destroyed for there is nothing connecting to nothing. Can this simply be capped off? Is this smog related and not needed? Anyone have any capping/removing thoughts? If this is all smog related, can the entire spacer be replaced and all of the attachments to the spacer done away with?
That spacer should have an EGR valve connected on the end. It should also have a metal tube going from the bottom of it, that connects to your exhaust manifold.
Underneath the carb on that plate is a nipple that your PCV valve connects to.
Anyway, that is your EGR system. If you don't have smog issues in your state, you can cap of the EGR valve with a plate, and put a piple plug in where the metal tube connected. If you can find a carb spacer for a mid 70s truck, it will not have the EGR hookup and stuff.
Thanks for the reply. No, I am not state regulated. Took the steps to fab a plug for the broken pipe that exhaust was coming out of. This is now capped off. Wow, I can hear the engine run a little. What about all of the other small vac lines coming from this EGR? They go to a control box with about 3 stations located on the drivers side back of engine at valve cover. Is this too all from the EGR system? What is it's purpose?
Now that I can hear the engine a little bit, going to work on other items. 1st check of timing shows it to be off, plus engine is not wanting to quit firing after key is off. Is all of this timing? What would be your suggestions for step #1, #2, #3 on setting the timing.
Those three "control boxes" are solenoid valves. They are controlled by the EEC module and open and close depending on if you're accelerating or decelarating. THey then send vaccum to the diverter valaves connected to the smog pump.
If you wanna save yourself some trouble with all of this junk, take the belt right off the smog pump. Take IT right out along with the diverter valves and wind pipes.
More specifically, there is a vaccum line that leaves the intake mannifold and then splites between those solenoids and some sort of sensor mounted on the right side of the engine compartment(you need this, it controles the distributor). Where that vaccum line splits, cap the hose that goes to the solenoids.
Then there is a green vaccum hose that's attached to the top of the carb (controls the egr valve), plus it at the carb.
THere you go, then your anti-polution system will be disabled. I just did the same thing on mine and it works great
Write back if you didn't get all that it's a little complicated.
The pump is off. The device underneath with 2 small vac lines going to it is gone. I have these solenoid lines plugged. Someone else told me if I remove the solenoid package I will probably get an "Emissions" light or something. So I have been reluctant to do that.
Been working on getting it to run smooth. Had to change the damper pulley. Sure enough, like some of the other guys have been reporting, the rubber had separated. Even to the point it was scraping my time chain cover on the back side. Bought a new one and put on. Set the timing. Runs much better. Changed plugs and checked wires.
Now to the carb. Believe I am running rich. What is the best way to set up the 1 bbl? What about the O2 sensor? Exhaust smells strong and when changing plugs showed signs of rough. But that was probably timing too. I guess I could pull plugs and check for visuals.
After this, the computer will be the last thing, I guess.
First off, defenitly, do not remove the solenoids, they will screw up the comp. leave them there with the electric wires, just diconnect the vaccum lines. That way, the EEC module will think they are still functionnal.
Now for the gas mix. If the O2 sensor isn't working right, it will send a faulty signal to the EEC which will demand a richer or leaner mix (then expected) to your carb. This will make your engine feel rough. Try to check the sensor if you can(i dont know how).
And i wouldn't know about the plugs, but check the o2 sensor, that sucker (when not functioning propely) will cost you in gas mileage and many other problems.
Disconnect lines at the solenoid module? All of them OK to remove?
As far as the O2 sensor, I guess I am best just to replace it, if I can get it off. Looks like it will be tough. Probably the original and then on the manifold for all those years.
Going to have to get exhaust as well. Can I remove the cat convertor and pipe back into a single muffler? No headers on.
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