I don't use additives at all in engines or automatic transmissions, additives screw with the oil's additives and could make the oil break down quicker, make it too slippery causing cylinder/clutch pack glazing or change it's viscosity etc., you can't see what's going on inside your engine. I recommend using a good quality oil and changing it and the filter in a timely manner. I use Amsoil in my good pickup and wifes car and I use Shell in my work truck, I change my engine oil every 10 thousand km on the tens (10, 20, 30, easy to remember ) and change my transmission oils every 200 thousand. The important thing is to keep your oil between the add and full marks and clean, keep your air clean, keep your coolant level up and clean and your vehicle will last a long time.

 

[QUOTE=BPofMD;9927814]FYI, the Seafoam manufacture says you CAN use it in your oil..... BUT, I personally would NOT use it in a gas fueled engine.
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I know it says you can use it in the oil. What I don't like about running it through a vacuum hose ect. and where people say that it the engine smokes badly, is that all of that cr*p goes into your catalytic converters. Not good, because no cat is going to filter all of that out, it will diminish the effectiveness of any cat.

On an older car, without a cat (Pre 1975) that is not an issue.

 

[quote=Ed;9965854]Good observation, never thought of that , I say just don't screw with additives and such, want to keep your engine clean? Don't idle it, engines are not designed to idle, they are designed to work. Start your engine and put it to work, take it easy until it's up to operating temp. but don't sit there. Don't idle the engine for air conditioning or heat, it's not ment for that. And when you get to destination, unles it's been operating at full load till the instant you stop, shut it down.

 

[QUOTE=offroadnt;9969185][quote=Ed;9965854]

Good observation, never thought of that , I say just don't screw with additives and such, want to keep your engine clean? Don't idle it, engines are not designed to idle, they are designed to work. Start your engine and put it to work, take it easy until it's up to operating temp. but don't sit there. Don't idle the engine for air conditioning or heat, it's not ment for that. And when you get to destination, unles it's been operating at full load till the instant you stop, shut it down.
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Absolutely! I see so many people, completely clueless, who think you must idle a modern vehicle 15-20-25 minutes to warm it up on a chilly or cold morning! This boggles my mind. All they are doing is completely varnishing and plugging up their engines, overheating their catalytic converters, which greatly reduces their life and proper operation.

An engine, old or new, will warm up much more quickly, under a load. On a cold morning, start the engine. Okay to idle 15-20 seconds in freezibg temps. Then get the vehicle in gear, moving at a moderate speed. This helps the engine, transmission, exhaust system, rear axle, warm up quickly. Modern vehicles, are designed to warm up much better than cars were years ago.

WE still must deal with wonderlicks, who feel revving their new 2011 SUV is the proper way to warm up their engine.
I also agree with you, in that today's oils don't need any additional additives. Still can't understand why some people change their oil, and feel they must add some motor oil honey, or thick oil stabilizers, ect. Their thought process, I don't understand at all.

 

Where would STP be without them eh . I soppose they support industries that employ thousands of people, all the way from manufacturers of these products to advertising to oil companies to people who trouble and repair improperly maintained and operated vehicles .

 

Seafoam is great product when used correctly. Yes! It even says on can to use in crankcase. However, its purpose is to 'flush,clean,remove deposits' not act as preservative for oil & other lubricants. I would not
leave in oil ie,...storage for any long periods. When added to crankcase &
only 1/4 to half can for 'engine flush' its w/purpose of cleaning,removing &
disolving carbon build-up or sludge to then be removed w/the oil change 30min. later so you have improved lubricity,oil flow throughout all those
tiny little passeges,spit holes internally. Just do engine flush w/seafoam
then drain it out..yes it will be black then put new oil & filter then storage
your vehicle. I've used Seafoam & other products for over 28yrs as Mech.
all makes models & mileages w/great success. Hope this has helped...by
way i'm Nate...Central Florida.

 

Bring this old thread back up.
I have a 1989 F150 PO changed out the oil pump and to do so he had to drop the oil pan (guessing while he did that he clean out all the sludge. I have been plannin on running some sea foam thru the vac lines and thru the gas tank and running powerfoam thru the throttle body. I have been always informed not to run it thru the oil because it does what it suppose to do break down composites. Even if you change the oil right after there would still be some in the engine? continuing to break down composites and could lead to clogging up the oil pump or oil filter and messing the motor up. Now my thought is that my motor as already had a lot of that sludge takin out. Should I still be iffy about doing that?
Thanks
Rop3r

 

I know this thread is really old, but I thought I'd share my experience and revive the thread.

I used Seafoam in the oil (amount it directs on the can) in an '02 Ch**y 5.3L with 162k which has always run regular (no synthetic) 5w-30. Ran it for 300 miles. When I drained it, the oil was black as night... It cleaned it out and it ran noticeably better under load afterward. Now running high detergent oil in it every other oil change to keep it clean.

 

I used seafoam for the 1st time in both my car and the rig, hope it works like they said it does, we will see, they say you can put it in before or after the oil change, personally I'd put it in before that way whatever it breaks down gets drained with the old oil