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2001 X.
There's no "DOOR AJAR" light on the dash, I've disconnected all 6 of the door switches, and still they burn.
And the dash switch is OFF!
I just don't get it! Maybe the keyless entry?
Pulling fuse 14 kills it, as does pulling both the small relays. Just one relay won't, but I guess the door was open.
Pulling all the bulbs worked as well, but not really the best solution.
Any input is welcome.
I know on the superdutys the doorswitch is behind the door striker in the door, and a lot of guys spray wd-40 in there and the problem goes away , sounds like you are way past that though, Craig.
Do a search for "door ajar" and you'll find countless threads, posts, and almost as many remedies.
I did that, but the door isn't ajar, and it knows it. If you open a door, the light gets brighter, and you hear the relay pull. I'm truly at a loss on this one.
What I can't find on my schematics is how the key fob turns the lights on.
the gem module is on the fuse box. black box with 2 to 4 connectors (small connectors) going to it. before you do that why dont you swith interior lamp relay out with a different relay of the same style. relay could be sticking
Oh no. I'm ready to replace it yet. I want to disconnect it and restore the lamps and see if the relay goes normal.
I am just trying to find the problem right now. And if it's going to take my money reserved for guages to fix it, we'll live without lights.
Seems like there's another trigger that's causing the lights to come on. It's not the doors, it's either the dash switch (doubtful, never gets used) or the keyless system. Or it could be a wire getting grounded somewhere.
Try removing and unplugging the light over the 3<SUP>rd</SUP> row. It has a goofy double ground. The lights are grounded trough the wiring harness and by one of the mounting screws. I discovered this while installing my dome light override switches. Another thing to look at is the cargo light. I pulled mine and noticed that the insulation on the ground wire was worn (my truck is less than a year old). It wasn’t causing any problems but I put some tape over it just in case. You could have a similar situation, but my guess is that there is something going on with the 3<SUP>rd</SUP> row light.
The cargo area light's switch had shorted the 2 power feeds together. So I removed the always hot feed from the switch so there is only the feed from the interior lighting relay.
Seems kinda dumb to have a battery feed to a light-mounted switch back there. I have to open the liftgate to get to the switch, so it's already on.
The switch itself is a real piece of crap. It wasn't made to get used at all.
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