FE446 update...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
FE446 update...
Well, it's really more of an FE446 associated transmission update.
I was diggin' around under there trying to find out where/why this transmission likes to mark it's territory with tranny fluid wherever I go.
Then I noticed that the vacuum flux inducticator gizmo was loose and looks to be where a thick congregation of fluid was. I figure this is A) one if not all of the leak and 2) might induce bubblification within the fluid that was causing some venting I had seen (of course, it might have been too full). Ever notice that a standard wrench will not fit on the 3/4" nut that tightens the gizmo. Need a skinny wrench to tighten that thing. Or, I'm missing some parts.
Anyway, if I ever get motivated, I'll get it all back together, top off the fluid and see what happens. I'm also ordering a B&M shift kit from Summit. Looks like they offer a basic C6 shift kit for about $30. For some reason, my kick-down linkage doesn't look right since the last transmission reinstall and ratchet shifter install???? Do, I really need the kickdown if I have a ratchet shifter?
I was diggin' around under there trying to find out where/why this transmission likes to mark it's territory with tranny fluid wherever I go.
Then I noticed that the vacuum flux inducticator gizmo was loose and looks to be where a thick congregation of fluid was. I figure this is A) one if not all of the leak and 2) might induce bubblification within the fluid that was causing some venting I had seen (of course, it might have been too full). Ever notice that a standard wrench will not fit on the 3/4" nut that tightens the gizmo. Need a skinny wrench to tighten that thing. Or, I'm missing some parts.
Anyway, if I ever get motivated, I'll get it all back together, top off the fluid and see what happens. I'm also ordering a B&M shift kit from Summit. Looks like they offer a basic C6 shift kit for about $30. For some reason, my kick-down linkage doesn't look right since the last transmission reinstall and ratchet shifter install???? Do, I really need the kickdown if I have a ratchet shifter?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Putt
The kickdown will allow you to leave the shifter alone when you hit passing gear goin' by some ricer. Otherwise you will need to manually move the shifter to get that.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
It doesnt meen crap Greg!! if you dont mind shifting!! As much HP and TQ as that thing has you probably dont need a lower gear to get around someone anyway!! LOL.
And if that gizmo your talking about is the Vacuum modulator? and your sucking air into the case, that could be a cause of it foaming up and coming out of the trans..But I dont think thats it..it maybe where your leak is at.. But if it is sucking air and all Vacuum is not directed just too the modulator..your trans will shift funky and slip!!
I remember years ago I got a Mooch deal on a 63 Impala SS... that was cherry!! the guys was selling it because the Chev Dealer told him the motor was shot..(it was smoking) he didnt want to invest $4000 for the dealer to install a new engine..So I bought it from him for $500..brought it home..put a new Modulator in it!! and No more engine smoke!! I loved that ride... 327 and a 4 spud!! Then The Lowrider's in the hood thought they would barrow it..and not give it back!! LOL..Oh well, thats one reason I dont live in Cal anymore!!
Russ
And if that gizmo your talking about is the Vacuum modulator? and your sucking air into the case, that could be a cause of it foaming up and coming out of the trans..But I dont think thats it..it maybe where your leak is at.. But if it is sucking air and all Vacuum is not directed just too the modulator..your trans will shift funky and slip!!
I remember years ago I got a Mooch deal on a 63 Impala SS... that was cherry!! the guys was selling it because the Chev Dealer told him the motor was shot..(it was smoking) he didnt want to invest $4000 for the dealer to install a new engine..So I bought it from him for $500..brought it home..put a new Modulator in it!! and No more engine smoke!! I loved that ride... 327 and a 4 spud!! Then The Lowrider's in the hood thought they would barrow it..and not give it back!! LOL..Oh well, thats one reason I dont live in Cal anymore!!
Russ
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Clayton CA
Originally Posted by gtex
Then I noticed that the vacuum flux inducticator gizmo was loose and looks to be where a thick congregation of fluid was. I figure this is A) one if not all of the leak and 2) might induce bubblification within the fluid that was causing some venting I had seen (of course, it might have been too full).
For some reason, my kick-down linkage doesn't look right since the last transmission reinstall and ratchet shifter install???? Do, I really need the kickdown if I have a ratchet shifter?
For some reason, my kick-down linkage doesn't look right since the last transmission reinstall and ratchet shifter install???? Do, I really need the kickdown if I have a ratchet shifter?
I like having the kickdown working when I'm just driving around town. It's nice not to have to worry about the downshift if you've got a coffee mug in your hand (or some other beverage). I also had problems with my linkage after the B&M shifter install. I ended up making a new kickdown lever. I think I mentioned that in a PM I sent to you a while back.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Nope, it's not an AOD, so that kickdown doesn't modulate anything - except kickdown 
If you do leave it off, tie-wrap it whichever way is "no pedal" - my friend left one hanging one time and couldn't figure out why it would downshift when he went over bumps...
If you do leave it off, tie-wrap it whichever way is "no pedal" - my friend left one hanging one time and couldn't figure out why it would downshift when he went over bumps...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
Nope, it's not an AOD, so that kickdown doesn't modulate anything - except kickdown
If you do leave it off, tie-wrap it whichever way is "no pedal" - my friend left one hanging one time and couldn't figure out why it would downshift when he went over bumps...
If you do leave it off, tie-wrap it whichever way is "no pedal" - my friend left one hanging one time and couldn't figure out why it would downshift when he went over bumps...
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by gtex
good point! although, mine doesn't seem to move that freely...
Or left the entire rod on there and it was waving in the breeze...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
tranny might still be leaking, or that might just be some spliiage from filling it up.
I got the truck back to running and the exhuast cut-outs are working again. It sounds great :-)
I'll be ordering a shift kit soon. If I can get the leaks resolved this thing ought to be in pretty good shape. Since the last track trip, I've fixed a lot of the gremlins (fan controller etc.). I think a track trip is soon to happen. Hopefully we'll get some cooler weather soon and we'll see that 13 second timeslip for the 1st time
I got the truck back to running and the exhuast cut-outs are working again. It sounds great :-)
I'll be ordering a shift kit soon. If I can get the leaks resolved this thing ought to be in pretty good shape. Since the last track trip, I've fixed a lot of the gremlins (fan controller etc.). I think a track trip is soon to happen. Hopefully we'll get some cooler weather soon and we'll see that 13 second timeslip for the 1st time
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
I usually run 93. And sometimes I'll get 100 when at the track.
I don't think it's HP keeping me out of the 13s. I gotta get it to run consistently, get some traction (use the sticky tires, and avoid wheel-hop) and not have various gremlins show up like last time. Every pass we made on the last trip we had to fix something else that came loose or leaked or just quit.
I think I've just about fixed most of those issues and it's running much better and more consistently. There's still some carb tuning to do. But, I might save that for the track when Strokster can help and we can see the results.
I don't think it's HP keeping me out of the 13s. I gotta get it to run consistently, get some traction (use the sticky tires, and avoid wheel-hop) and not have various gremlins show up like last time. Every pass we made on the last trip we had to fix something else that came loose or leaked or just quit.
I think I've just about fixed most of those issues and it's running much better and more consistently. There's still some carb tuning to do. But, I might save that for the track when Strokster can help and we can see the results.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Clayton CA
Greg, when you do the shift kit I would recommend installing a "R" code servo as well; the "R" comes from its original installation in the 428CJ C6s. The servo handles the intermediate band pressure and the "R" code version applies more pressure, making the shift more crisp. The intermediate band is your second gear, which makes or breaks you at the track. Changing out the servo is a bolt-in deal.