Stereo system problems
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From: Dark side of the sun.
Stereo system problems
First,the door speaker (passenger) rattles against the door pannel and sounds like crap. I tried a spounge between the 2,doesn't work. Tried better fastening,doesn't work. What can I do?
Second,My rears are a mess,
The left side is a tad bit louder than the right and does'nt hit as hard as I thought they would.
And the rears are louder than the front door speakers are. I would adjust it in the EQ but I like it all centered out.
Now the info,Pioneer DEH-1600 HU
Pioneer 6X9 and door speakers.
Could it be the wiring? The truck only came with 2 speakers thus its only wired for two,I added the rears with home stereo speaker wire and other types or wire.
This is not the best install I've done but the cheapest.
Thanks guys.
P.S. I'm gonna re-wire this so it will be better,but what kind of wire should I use and how should I do it?
Second,My rears are a mess,
The left side is a tad bit louder than the right and does'nt hit as hard as I thought they would.
And the rears are louder than the front door speakers are. I would adjust it in the EQ but I like it all centered out.
Now the info,Pioneer DEH-1600 HU
Pioneer 6X9 and door speakers.
Could it be the wiring? The truck only came with 2 speakers thus its only wired for two,I added the rears with home stereo speaker wire and other types or wire.
This is not the best install I've done but the cheapest.
Thanks guys.
P.S. I'm gonna re-wire this so it will be better,but what kind of wire should I use and how should I do it?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 1
From: Bixby, OK
I don't know if your truck has those little pockets in the door panels, but if it does, I'd check them for anything (coins, pens, etc..) for the rattling just to make sure. The second thing you can do is dynomat the door. It sounds like one of your clips is broken behind the door panel causing it to rattle.
It's possible that the newer wire is a thicker gauge of wire, allowing there to be more sound from different speakers. I think the best thing to do would be to go somewhere and get 40 feet of 16awg wire. Spend a little money and time on it, make it worth while. Post your results.
It's possible that the newer wire is a thicker gauge of wire, allowing there to be more sound from different speakers. I think the best thing to do would be to go somewhere and get 40 feet of 16awg wire. Spend a little money and time on it, make it worth while. Post your results.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
You should be able to get it at any car audio store. Crutchfield sells a speaker kit of the original I believe for $14.99, then they have Dynomat Xtreme for $19.99.
I would look into listening where the rattle comes from and see if you can pinpoint it.
I would look into listening where the rattle comes from and see if you can pinpoint it.
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I know whare the rattle is coming from,Its when the cone moves outward it hits the panel.
I'm gonna go get some 14 gauge Just in case and Hook it up that way. What do I do about the front speakers though? Will the factory wire still be good?
I'm gonna go get some 14 gauge Just in case and Hook it up that way. What do I do about the front speakers though? Will the factory wire still be good?
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Cross out the 14,I got the 16 instead. It sounds ALOT better. I think the right higher than the left side is a speaker problem. I'm gonna look into the dynamat tommarow and try and seal the doors.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
Walmart also sells a cheapy version by Scosche (not sure if that's spelled right) to deaden the doors. It's a couple sheets of the stuff that's about 10"x10". The wiring makes a difference though, you'll get deeper bass and crisper and more acurrate highs from a wire upgrade. What did you do about the doors for wiring? I had to run mine through weather stripping and then across to a prexisting hole because I couldn't get to the rubber grommet that goes to the wiring to the door.
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From: Indiana
I got some edead stuff and it does a pretty good job. Its a LOT cheaper than the dynomat and you can order whatever amount you may need. You will need to bust out the heat gun for the doors. Whatever you decide to go with make sure to stay WELL clear of the window mechanisms. (it can catch the edead and make pull it up, pain in the butt!!) http://www.edesignaudio.com/category.php?type=damp
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
Peel and seal works great for the floors and also for the doors, it's cheaper than edead and works well for the doors and floors. Just do not put the peel and seal when sound proofing the headliner, in the summer months it likes to fall down. But you will need a heat gun (or a high wattage hairdryer with heat on) to help the adhesive out.
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I don't have a heat gun or a blow dryer. But I'll use the blow dryer instead.
When I do put the sound proffing material in,I'm going to cover the floor and back wall. (with the doors of coarse). About how much would carpet flooring costs because my old vynal is worn torn and full of holes. By the seat belt bolts on the floor theres an incredible amount of dirt,rust,grime,etc...How can I get that out? Also,The PO put holes in the rear of the cab (I don't know why,They were drilled in.) and theres 2 big rust holes behind the kick panels from whare water stood for years,Would bondo cover them up good and can I just rattle can the bondo to lay the sound proofing material down?
I should mention,This truck has no headliner,or interior basicly,Just a seat,dash and a flooring with door panels.
and under the plastic pieces that go under the doors on the floor,they're rusted bad too,how can i clean those up? I'd ask a body shop all these questions but theyd charge me just for the call,Lol.
Sorry for the long post and thanks.
When I do put the sound proffing material in,I'm going to cover the floor and back wall. (with the doors of coarse). About how much would carpet flooring costs because my old vynal is worn torn and full of holes. By the seat belt bolts on the floor theres an incredible amount of dirt,rust,grime,etc...How can I get that out? Also,The PO put holes in the rear of the cab (I don't know why,They were drilled in.) and theres 2 big rust holes behind the kick panels from whare water stood for years,Would bondo cover them up good and can I just rattle can the bondo to lay the sound proofing material down?
I should mention,This truck has no headliner,or interior basicly,Just a seat,dash and a flooring with door panels.
and under the plastic pieces that go under the doors on the floor,they're rusted bad too,how can i clean those up? I'd ask a body shop all these questions but theyd charge me just for the call,Lol.
Sorry for the long post and thanks.