360 stock carb choke setup

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Sep 14, 2005 | 10:15 AM

farmtwuck

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360 stock carb choke setup

Hey all,

I hope this (FE) is the correct forum:

I have a 1970 F250 4x4 with a 360 and a replacement "stock" carb. It appears that there is an electric choke setup on the carb. I recently purchased the truck and the previous owner replaced the carb within the last year. I'm not sure what the stock carb is, but this one is a Motorcraft 2V. Engine is supposed to be stock although with about 5k on an overhaul.

Did these trucks have an stock electric choke setup? The thing apparently isn't working as it should. The truck starts hard even when it is warm out and doesn't idle well until the engine is warmed up. When the engine is warmed up it starts right away. I haven't been able to confirm if the electric setup is working at all.

There is a manual choke ****/cable set that is disconnected. Is my best bet to disconnect the electric choke and use the manual choke or is there someway to adjust the electric setup? I'm familiar with using manual choke since I've had / operated many vehicles with the manual choke.

Thanks.

Sep 14, 2005 | 12:01 PM

Bear 45/70

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From: Union, Washington

Motorcraft 2V is correct carb. Electric chokes, when working properly don't forget to shut off the choke as the engine warms up. Some trucks had manual chokes and some electric. Easy to check. Cold engine, key off, step on throttle to floor and release. Pull air cleaner, choke valve should be closed (closing off the air horn). If not needs adjustment until it does (loosen 3 screws holding down the black plastic choke heater and turn until valve is closed), make sure linkage is free and not binding. Start engine and observe choke, valve should slowly open in 2 to 3 minutes. If it does, electric heater and choke are working. You need special linkage to convert electric to manual or to have kept the original linkage off the stock carb which the PO didn't do.

Sep 14, 2005 | 12:36 PM

farmtwuck

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Bear,

Thanks for the tips. I'll have to take a closer look when I get home tonight.

"Electric chokes, when working properly don't forget to shut off the choke as thewarms up."

Excellent point. I don't worry about myself, but my wife will drive it sometimes and she's never really driven anything that didn't have EFI.

If I have to go manual I'll fab a piece to connect the cable and "butterfly".

Last edited by farmtwuck; Sep 14, 2005 at 12:38 PM.

Sep 14, 2005 | 12:42 PM

farmtwuck

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Bear, One last thing: where should the electrical feed for the choke come from? Does it need a constant electrical supply? I think this one may be wired to the "starter side" of the starter solenoid so that it is only "hot" when the starter is engaged.

Thanks again, in advance.

Sep 14, 2005 | 01:48 PM

Bear 45/70

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The feed for the choke heater needs to be on all the time the engine is running. Some systems are off a terminal on the alternator which supplies power only when the engine is running. Ford just usually connects to the ignition switch and is on all the time the key is on. You can NOT use the plus (+) terminal on the coil due to the resistance wire.

Sep 14, 2005 | 02:06 PM

farmtwuck

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Thanks again Bear 45/70.

Sep 15, 2005 | 08:37 AM

farmtwuck

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Bear,

I checked out the choke like you described and it appears to be working. I have some cold idling problems that may be choke related but I don't know. My mechanicing experience is mostly in industrial diesels and I've never done anything with a FE Ford, so you'll have to forgive my ignorance on the FE. Like I've told many people who were "scared" of working on diesels: They're great because they don't have carburators or electrical ignition (much easier to troubleshoot).

With the cold idling, now after adjusting the choke the truck starts much better but will run fine for a few seconds and then will die if I don't tap the accel. Any thoughts? Also, do you or anyone else who reads this know of any good FAQ sheets on tuning and adjusting this carb?

Thanks again!