Long story short: The A/C in the old Ranger just doesn't cut it, so I have been driving a newer/more fuel efficient (and the A/C works great) vehicle. At least while two things continue - 1) 90+ deg days here in VA, 2) $2.50-$3.29 for REGULAR! (Oil companies)

My 88' Ranger has sat for about two months or so with about 2-4 gal in the tank. When I recently got in to drive to Lowes for some supplies the truck felt like there was no power in the lower RPMs, and it felt like I had to give it quite a bit of gas to get it going from a stop. Even while it was up to speed it kind of felt like it was "put-putting" along (similar to a slight miss). I didn't think it was "too low" on gas, but I went to fill it up anyway. When I did I thought the gas cap was very loose compared to how I always put it back. I filled it up and drove for about 30 miles round trip to drop off some junk. It didn't feel like it was any better when I parked it.

My concerns:
1) Loose gas cap could have let moisture into the tank, or some waste of existance kid put something in the tank. I have never had anything like sugar or water in the tank so I don't know how it would react.
2) Possible moisture under the distributor cap?
3) ????

The truck ran just fine when I parked it a few months ago. I have not had the time to go looking for the issue just yet since I have many projects going on at the same time. So I am looking for opinions from all of the experienced FTE'ers out there. I will hopefully have some time to poke around this weekend and check any suggestions you might have. The thing that burns me is, fuel pressure, air flow, spark, etc..... was all good when I parked it.

1988 Ranger Supercab, 4x2, 5sp, 2.3L, 121k

 

sugar will clog your injectors and after a run like that without your injectors completely clogging i dont think its sugar.

 

I would start with the fuel pressure and codes....one other thought, are you sure somethig didn't build a nest in the intake this summer while it was parked?

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

I wasn't 100% sure how sugar in the tank would affect the truck. How would it react if water was in there? Does anyone else think it is possible to get that much condensation in the tank?

I will check for codes when I get the chance, and if I have a spare upper gasket for the IM I will check the pressure at the rail. Stupid Ford put the check valve under the IM where I just can't get my hands in. Anyone know a trick to getting to it on the 2.3L? The last time I checked it I had the IM off. I will also check for critters, but I think unless they chewed through the filter, they could only be in the lower airbox.


Anyone else with suggestions on this "failure while sitting".

 

Injectors could be slightly clogged or sticky from sitting still for so long. Spark plug wires may have 'absorbed' water that they normally evaporated daily when you drove it regularly, causing intermittent miss. Water may have condensed in the gas tank over time. You could have moisture under the cap as you say, but it'd be a more solid miss than you describe until it warmed up or evap'd the water.
Did any critters chew through any of the vacuum hoses under the hood? Have you checked? Didja check the tightness of the spark plug wires, etc?
tom

 

The whole power issue might have just been you being in another car, but as for the various other things. I would say go ahead and tune it up, replace everything, wires, plugs, filters, all that good stuff. This is if you are planning to start driving it again. Water in the tank wouldn't have 'caused this much of a problem unless there was A LOT of it down there. A little water isn't exactly good for the engine, but it won't hurt it. Good luck.

 

Sugar is not soluble in gas so it would clog the filter as a solid.

 

Thanks again for the ideas guys, well...... except for the one where RangerPilot thought I just fell off the back of the turnip truck.

So, I think I could be on to something and I want to know if it sounds reasonable. I didn't think of this at first, but the last time I drove it there was a point where I went to get on the brakes and the pedal dropped about 1/4 of the way after the initial bite. It didn't do it again so I was just thinking "stupid old piece of crap". Anyway, Saturday I got in it to go get a rental tool and I noticed some "newer" stains on the street where I has been sitting, and the Brake dash light stayed on. So I checked the MC and it is really low on fluid. When I filled it up I noticed it also seemed to accelerate almost like normal. To make a long story short I think I have serious brake issues, and this may also be a vac problem. I think the vac/brake problem is causing the rough idle, and a dragging caliper is holding the acceleration back. The hotter the brakes got the slower it would accelerate, and there as a strong brake smell around the pass side. Not to mention the lug nuts on the left front were super hot. Taking a look under the truck I see some wet areas on the back of the gas tank and driver's side rear axel.

Does anyone else think an empty MC would cause a rough idle and frozen brakes cause my lack of acceleration?

tomw - Yes I checked the plug wires, and they only have <10,000 miles. All of the normal stuff was replaced last year. There may still be some condensation in the tank so I will try grab some "Gas dryer" on the next parts store trip.

 

My guess would be bad fuel if it sat for 2 months with no stabilizer added to it.

 

Yes, I agree there may be some moisture in there and I will treat the gas even though I have filled up since it sat. But that does not explain the missing brake fluid, and possibly dragging brakes.

 

Ummmh, I'd replace the calipers w/ a reman. If they sat, and water was in the fluid, you could end up with rusty and stuck caliper pistons. Apply brakes, they stay applied. You are not supposed to add brake fluid on any sort of regular basis... That is not good.
If you have power brakes, the vacuum booster could have a sticking valve, and be 'helping' you too much, thus applying the brakes when you don't want them to be applied. If you had driven the truck daily, it would not have gotten mad, and done all these things...
tom

 

I am really thinking it is the brakes causing the "slow" acceleration problem, but I am still not sure if the lack of fluid could have caused a loss of vacuum. I think at least the drivers rear is blown based on the fluid I saw on the rear axle. I don't add fluid on a regular basis, and I know it is not supposed to be low unless there is a leak somewhere. I was mainly looking to see if more of the fluid was going to come out where I believe it is coming from.

I am not currently driving the truck daily due to the increased gas prices, lack of brakes, and poor A/C. Since I have other cars that get a lot better mileage, plus the A/C works I have had only limited use for the Ranger.

All those "tune-up" parts mentioned before were replaced last year since I was doing some "catch up" on routine maintenance that the previous owner neglected. And I didn't understand your last sentence.

 

I didn't have a lot of time but I checked a few things out last night.

1 No critters in the intake/inlet tube.
2 Pulled the rear drum and it was dry inside, and the lines were dry outside.
3 Pulled the passenger front tire to have a look at the pads, lines, etc..... 4 Everything looked normal, but both front wheels would not spin very freely. You could hear them dragging as you spin the rim.
4 Checked the fluid in the MC and it was low again, I didn't put any more fluid in since I don't know where it is going.
5 When I start it, it is still abit rough on the idle, and when I try to open the TB by hand at the throttle cable it sounds like it is sucking too much air. Hard to describe, but almost like the reverse of a muffler sound at the TB.

So when I get some more time plug inspection, fuel pressure, and codes will be first on the list.

Again, does anyone know if a malfunctioning MC/empty MC will cause a rough idle and lack of acceleration when you step on the pedal due to a vacuum leak?

 

The faulty power brake booster mentioned previously could suck fluid out of the master cylinder, and could cause a rough idle. If the MC leaked at the pedal shaft seal, the booster could suck fluid into the booster. If the booster had a faulty apply valve, or a sticking or mis-adjusted valve, it could be applying the brakes for you, as soon as the engine started.
Try disconnecting the big vacuum line leading to the booster. Plug it. The brakes will be a LOT harder to apply, so beware. If the booster was sticking, it should allow the wheels to turn freely now, as it should not be applying 'assistance' ever. It would also stop sucking any brake fluid out of the mc, as there is no vacuum.
Drive for a while after re-filling the MC, and check for fluid loss and free brake application. You really don't need a booster on a small truck...
tom