Yo;

Replacement of power window motor bushings- has anyone dome this to fix pow/ window? I can't get spit from the motor with a current. Yea, maybe it's the 3 pins but I just want to tear stuff apart.

Dutch

 

If you disconnect the motor from the harness, and introduce a known good 12V source....like from a shop battery, the motor should turn in one direction, then when you reverse the wires it should turn the other way. I other words....right now.....with everything connected and the motor in place, if you can hear the motor turning, but the glass is not moving.....its the torque pins.

If when you know you hitting the motor with 12V, and it still aint turning.....its the motor itself and not just the torque pins.

 

Streetgang; yea that's it-- no motor turn with direct 12v source. So, it is the motor- I get no turn of the gear- is there something inside the motor I can swap out besides the pins? Or is it just fried?

Dutch

 

Sounds like its fried. If you do the same good/no good test on the other window......do you get the same result, or are both the window motors shot?

You can get the window motors from many places....Jeffs Bronco Graveyard, LMC Truck, Ebay, A1 Auto.....and so on. I think about $50 is a good price for a new generic one....or about the same for a used OEM motor. If you want to go with a new OEM unit expect to pay more. Take a look on ebay.

To remove the motor just drill a hole where Ford has already made a center punch marke....sort of like a detent to start the drill bit......this will give you access to the two bolts you can get at. There are three bots total that hold the motor in.....you can get to one easy (10MM socket on 1/4" extension) the other two is where you will have to make the two holes. Its super easy once you have dont it once or twice......and once you look at it closely you will see exactly what I am talking about.

I always keep a spare motor for all three locations in my truck, and I have a dozen or so "torque pin bushings" and a few of the plastic gears. I have been known to be totally **** about keeping extra parts on hand.....but then again, I sometimes have as many as 4 full size Broncos at one time......so.

Well let us know how you make out!

 

Well- our friendly, local "discount auto parts store" generic name- yea right.. So, I'll order the DRIVERS side , window motor. Part comes in all 79.84$ of it- oops wrong door motor. Return it- "no, the computer says there's no difference, see it says right here." "Here jackA@@, this is the old one this is the new one. do you see a difference? good, now refund my money." Thus concludes the tale of ordering a window motor from our friendly "computer reading auto parts workers!!""

Dutch

 

My passenger window motor packed up and I serviced it myself thus:

Remove motor assembly.
Remove two long screws from back of motor and pull off end cap, extractor armature and body with magnets etc.

My comutator was covered in crap like mud and the rear bearing of the rotor was very stiff so clean everything off with a solvent spray (WD-40 is good) and then use a piece of glass paper (not emery etc as its conductive) to clean the comutator etc. You can use a pick or needle to clean between each contact on the comutator.

the brushes (assuming they are not too worn) can be held back in their sockets with dress makers pins (you need three hands to do this) so that the rotor can be pushed back into the rear bearing without nackering the brushes. Remove the pins and the brushes spring back into position.

Grease the worm gear etc and the front bearing.

stuff it all back together and hey presto you'll find the motor will spin quite happy.

Also check the backlash adjustment on the end of the motor shaft (screw and lock nut) at the end furthest away from the gearbox. I had to slacken off mine a bit when I reassemble dit for the motor to turn happy.

Saved me $50 for a new one + shipping to the UK.

Simon

 

Hey muckypaws that sounds like a perfect job for a "write up".......did you by chance take any pictures when you did the work? If not......you think the next time you need to rebuild a window motor you snap a few quick shots and post it here???
I am in the process of compiling a **** load of tech info and write ups/articles to keep handy on my PC like.

 

Thanks Muckypaws- to reconfirm. the bolt size (3 bolt)not the rivet holding motor is 7/16" ?
I'll get a little dirty;;


thanks;
Dutch

 

Sorry I didn't record which sized it was - just took a handfull of sockets out the set and tried them till it fitted. Sounds about the right size though!

Its not too bad a job though.

One thing to make sure you get right is to reconnect the motor plug the right way around! I got it backwards and didn't check operation until I'd put it all back together and found the switch works in reverse. Bugger! Will fix it the next time I have the door skin off. Also whilst the skin is off grease the window slider tracks and the cresent gear which meshes with the motor. all helps to work things smoothly.


Simon

 

Damn fine idea. Having done the passenger side I am sure the LHS will need doing soon. Have already done the rear window motor (but that was in the middle of a field). Will get some photos and detailed write up next time.

Simon

 

Thanks bro!