92 explorer wont idle
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92 explorer wont idle
I have a 92 explorer no major problems till now, i was at a light and all the sudden the rpms dropped downed to 500 and kept droping, gave it a little gas and it was fine, the check engine light came on while at idle with the rpms dropping, i did not want to drive it so i got it off the road and called a tow truck with it being a sat they wont be able to look at it till monday i figure i see if any of you guys know what the problem could be i was thinking maybe the iac i read something on hear about that before but im not sure anyt help that you guys could give would be appreciated, it seemed to run fine while driving the problem only seems to be at idle thanks.
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From: Baltimore
Check the vacuum lines at the vacuum tree on the rear of the drivers side valve cover. But I don't think that would make the CEL come on. It could also be the throttle position sensor (TPS). I suggest pulling the codes first.
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
Yeah, pull the codes. IAC is a possibility, as is the vacuum tree (or another vacuum leak). But the other day when my '92 spit back and blew a hose of the tree, it wouldn't idle for squat, but it didn't throw a CEL light.
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Just got off the phone with the shop they said they pulled an ECM code but dont believe the ECM is bad, they believe its a wire that goes to the alarm and remote start, they just have to test drive it so lets see what happends
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From: Phoenix
Computer codes don't mean the computer is bad. They tell you when various components are not working properly or other symptoms of the vehicle's performance. Your last response was a little vague so I thought I'd just clarify it. Now if you tell us what codes they pulled, we can help decipher the problem. I am a little concern about what the shop is telling you. You have an idle problem not a "no start" problem. What does the remote start have to do with an engine already running?
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
Yeah, it's one of those new state of the art alarm systems that doesn't keep the car from running, it just makes it run bad so the thief can't get that far away.........Yeah, that's the ticket.
Ok, now that that's out of my system, Like Jharger said, it takes a real leap of logic to connect a disabling alarm system to bad idling. Getting codes is a good thing. It says the computer is sensing what's going on as well as the sensors can tell it, and the computers probably healthy. Knowing what the specific codes are would be the most useful information from the computer.
Ok, now that that's out of my system, Like Jharger said, it takes a real leap of logic to connect a disabling alarm system to bad idling. Getting codes is a good thing. It says the computer is sensing what's going on as well as the sensors can tell it, and the computers probably healthy. Knowing what the specific codes are would be the most useful information from the computer.
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From: Phoenix
Actually, NO kidding Jerry. It amazes me what local shops tell people. My sister in law called several Honda dealers saying here left hand door mirror doesn't adjust like it used to - electric motor adjustable. They all quoted her some $300-$400. Not sure if they wanted to replace the entire mirror/motor assembly - hell maybe the entire door for that price. So I went out to look at it and in 2 seconds I saw the mirror itself popped off of one of the three mounting sockets that attach it to the motor. Pressed it back in and asked her for $300. Well she bough me a beer anyway.
This is where the internet and information can be so valuable.
This is where the internet and information can be so valuable.
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Thats what i figured that how can the alarm cause the car to not idle, like some of you said with differant cases it could of just been a loose vacum line that simply had to be plugged back in, am picking it up later this afternoon and i will be questioning the mechcanic going to have him write down the codes he pulled as well, id rather see the person face to face then talking to him on the phone, no money will be exchanged unti i get to the bottom of this, thanks for your help guys
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From: Phoenix
I'd lean towards a vac leak too if it happened just all of a sudden. It's good to be paranoid when something different happens under the hood. But if you don't hear a terrible noise, have steam bellowing out or a puddle of oil on the ground, it's probably OK to keep driving a car to a safe place wher it can be evaluated. You might still need to pay some eval fee to the shop since you did authorize them to diagnos a problem. You may not agree with the evaluation but it's still there opinion. And if you get the codes, at least you have something to show for it. Next time, go to autozone and they will read them for free.
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Well i just got back from the shop, and got the full story, they first pulled the codes put they said there where no codes, which makes since to me because the CIL only came on when the vehical was idling at 400 rpms which would almost be a stall, i would give it some gas and it will go off once it was at normal rpms. To clear some things up i have an alarm and remote start since my vehical is a manual you must first set it (Parking brake on in nuetral press the button) then turn off the car and remove the keys but the car stays running until you arm the system then it shuts down, so i guess what was happening was the relay that shuts the vehical off was shorting out causing when the vehical is idle to begain to cut the engine off with no comand from the remote, causing the low idle and stall conditions. The shop was very nice and professional they showed my what they did and i even just called the manufactur of my alarm and they stated that they have herd of that situation and said they would send me the part i needed for free i said no bc i not want to have to deal with this again... thanks all
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From: Phoenix
I agree - do you really need an auto disarm on a 92 Explorere? Not exactly in the top 10 of stolen vehicles. That sounds like a real strange system. There must be some kind of control module that connects in line with the PCM main cable to bypass the ignition switch.
If you got a CEL - you will have a stored code. Unless the battery was disconnected. This clears the codes. But then again, if you have some other controller in line with the PCM, it may kill the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) power wire when the engine shuts down.
If you got a CEL - you will have a stored code. Unless the battery was disconnected. This clears the codes. But then again, if you have some other controller in line with the PCM, it may kill the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) power wire when the engine shuts down.