KC, PIAA wiring question??
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
KC, PIAA wiring question??
[q]I just installed 2 black KC Daylighter DRIVING 6" lights. I used loom around all the wiring but left it open and not totally taped up since Ill use the same loom for the PIAAs when they get here tomorrow hopefully. These are the driving KCs so a little wider than the offroad lights. Ill go out for a test drive in a few minutes after I close the office. OH that brings up another question but Ill post it in a new thread.[/q]
That was straight from another thread but I figured Ill get more attention here.
Anyway the question is this. Right now I have the WHITE wire just hooked up to the positive terminal on the battery. What I would prefer to do is hook it up the power for the HIGH beam lights (therefore turning on and off with the high beams). I used to do this on older vehicles, but is it still possible on this truck? The KC directions acted like it might be a problem. If I can do it can someone please tell me what wire it is and where to hook in?
Also for the PIAAs Ill need to hook into the low beams so can you tell me which that is as well?
That was straight from another thread but I figured Ill get more attention here.
Anyway the question is this. Right now I have the WHITE wire just hooked up to the positive terminal on the battery. What I would prefer to do is hook it up the power for the HIGH beam lights (therefore turning on and off with the high beams). I used to do this on older vehicles, but is it still possible on this truck? The KC directions acted like it might be a problem. If I can do it can someone please tell me what wire it is and where to hook in?
Also for the PIAAs Ill need to hook into the low beams so can you tell me which that is as well?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
You'll need to run them off of a relay. Just tap into the power wire for the high beams and run it to the relay like it's the one coming off the switch. Same thing for he low beams. Just don't try to run the lights off of the head light power wire directly. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, some folks just don't know that and wind up blowing fuses or melting wires.
Here's the setup I'm running. Just in case you were wondering it I had a clue. The big Maxtel's are wired to where the old fog lights were. The KC's are on 2 relays with a common switch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=85456&width=0
Here's the setup I'm running. Just in case you were wondering it I had a clue. The big Maxtel's are wired to where the old fog lights were. The KC's are on 2 relays with a common switch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=85456&width=0
Last edited by BFR250SD; Sep 8, 2005 at 11:37 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
hmmm thanks for the help but perhaps you could clarify. Are you saying to hook the WHITE KC wire up to the relay that the HIGH beam wire uses? Do you connect it right where the high beam where connects? Where is this relay located and what wire is it ?
I want to just leave the KC switch always on but have the lights comeon and off by using the HIGH beam switch on the truck.
I want to just leave the KC switch always on but have the lights comeon and off by using the HIGH beam switch on the truck.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
OK PIAAs and tow mirrors are here. Ill start installing them in a minute.
As for the wiring, I called the dealer I got the truck from and the techs there are saying to just wire it right in with the wire going to the high beam and low beam. So ????
As for the wiring, I called the dealer I got the truck from and the techs there are saying to just wire it right in with the wire going to the high beam and low beam. So ????
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
Right. Use one of the little blue 2 wire crimps. The one that allow one wire to go half way through and the other to pass completely through. Us taht to tap into the high or low beam wire for your lights. DO NOT power the extra lights off this, you'll blow the fuse for your headlights. USe this wire like it's the wire coming off the switch to activate the relay.
Than hook up all the other wires as it shows in the directions. Should be something similar to this.
Positive off the battery to the relay. This will actually power the lights
Graound coming off the relay. Just hook this to anything going into sheet metal.
Power wire going to the lights themselves.
Wire coming from your headlights or switch, whichever wya you hook it up.
Ground wire coming off you aux lights. Again, just ground these wherever you can.
Tha should be about it. Unless you want to run a switch instide the cab too, then it's just a few extra connections inside the cab, but they still follow along the same lines as the ones above.
Than hook up all the other wires as it shows in the directions. Should be something similar to this.
Positive off the battery to the relay. This will actually power the lights
Graound coming off the relay. Just hook this to anything going into sheet metal.
Power wire going to the lights themselves.
Wire coming from your headlights or switch, whichever wya you hook it up.
Ground wire coming off you aux lights. Again, just ground these wherever you can.
Tha should be about it. Unless you want to run a switch instide the cab too, then it's just a few extra connections inside the cab, but they still follow along the same lines as the ones above.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Yeah I had everything wired right before but the wire from the switch to a power source was going to the battery instead of the high/low wires.
ANYWAY I took the volt meter out and messed with the headlamp wire.
For future referrence for anyone else doing this job. There are 3 wires going to the headlamp bulb. The solid middle wire will be the ground. The green/black wire is the highbeam. The blue/white wire is the low beam. That should save someone else some time.
ANYWAY I took the volt meter out and messed with the headlamp wire.
For future referrence for anyone else doing this job. There are 3 wires going to the headlamp bulb. The solid middle wire will be the ground. The green/black wire is the highbeam. The blue/white wire is the low beam. That should save someone else some time.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
You are pretty much running the same setup I have for my backup lights. They are set to come on when the reverse lights come on or if I hit the switch in the cab.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=85478&width=0
All my front lights, with the exception of the Maxtels, are manual. The KC's are the off road light and 150 watts, so I reeeeeeeaaally can't use them on-road. The Maxtels I have setup in place of the factory fog lights and are wired into the fog light circuit. They have much nicer beam pattern than the factory lights.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=84701&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=85478&width=0
All my front lights, with the exception of the Maxtels, are manual. The KC's are the off road light and 150 watts, so I reeeeeeeaaally can't use them on-road. The Maxtels I have setup in place of the factory fog lights and are wired into the fog light circuit. They have much nicer beam pattern than the factory lights.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=84701&width=0
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Ive had KCs before that were the off road pencil beams and those were definitely brighter and more focused than these KC Driving Daylighters. Actually these probably just spread the light out more. Also the PIAA fogs I am going to have to play with where they are pointed. They add pretty much nothing at the moment to the lowbeams. Ive got some PIAA xtreme white driving lights I think I will add to the high beam circuit. I have a few questions still though.
How many lights or power can you pull from the stock system before you have to add another battery?
Are there any light bars made for the roof and if not where else could I add lights? I would like a row of OFFROAD lights on the top if possible.
How many lights or power can you pull from the stock system before you have to add another battery?
Are there any light bars made for the roof and if not where else could I add lights? I would like a row of OFFROAD lights on the top if possible.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
I've heard some guys talking about the light bars for the roof. I've never seen or even looked for one. I know guys have talked about them. Try a search, you may hit one.
As far as how many lights. Check the draw from each of your lights. They really don't draw that much juice to even put a dent in the stock system, especially if you have the 130 amp alternator.
To figure out battery specifics that you would need. This is more of a concern with the truck not running. Check what your reserve capacity is and at what rate of power draw that reserve is at. Total up all your running accessories and it will give you a good idea of power requirements. Adding another battery will just give you more run time with the engine off.
Extra batteries come into play with big draw items like winches, electric motors, plow lifts, amplifiers, etc. Lights don't have that much draw. Using adequate wiring is for the lights draw is the biggest concern hooking them up.
As far as how many lights. Check the draw from each of your lights. They really don't draw that much juice to even put a dent in the stock system, especially if you have the 130 amp alternator.
To figure out battery specifics that you would need. This is more of a concern with the truck not running. Check what your reserve capacity is and at what rate of power draw that reserve is at. Total up all your running accessories and it will give you a good idea of power requirements. Adding another battery will just give you more run time with the engine off.
Extra batteries come into play with big draw items like winches, electric motors, plow lifts, amplifiers, etc. Lights don't have that much draw. Using adequate wiring is for the lights draw is the biggest concern hooking them up.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Ok thanks... one more question.
If I want to hook up more than just the one pair of KCs to the high beam circuit (I have some PIAA driving lights right now I want to add tomorrow) is it ok to keep splicing in more switch wires into that one high beam line? I cant imagine where it would really be a problem.
If I want to hook up more than just the one pair of KCs to the high beam circuit (I have some PIAA driving lights right now I want to add tomorrow) is it ok to keep splicing in more switch wires into that one high beam line? I cant imagine where it would really be a problem.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
No. Just get another relay and run a short jumper wire from the wire that is acting as the switch and run it to the other relay. That way you don't get any more draw on your light circuit. I'll draw up a little diagram, just give a few minutes.
Okay here ya go
The red line I have coming off the first relay would actvate the realy like it had a seperate switch rigged up. It just runs off the same line as the first relay. It simplifies your wiring a little. This is how the 4 KC's are rigged up.
Okay here ya go
The red line I have coming off the first relay would actvate the realy like it had a seperate switch rigged up. It just runs off the same line as the first relay. It simplifies your wiring a little. This is how the 4 KC's are rigged up.
Last edited by BFR250SD; Sep 10, 2005 at 12:54 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
So the wire on the top left of the relay on the left is the one going to the high beam line right? I would just splice into that one at the relay instead of going all the way over to the high beam line is what you are saying. Good idea.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: down n tha swamps of La
Hey thanks guys this thread just cleared up my?'s on how to do the wiring w/o asking cool deal. By the way BFR sure looks like it will work well for tailgaters and highbeamers too. lol
Raybo54
Raybo54
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
raybo his diagram is for running more than one set of lights off of a certain light circuit.
For the installation mount your Relays on the passenger fender next to the battery. I ran the wires for the lights down around the front of the battery and through gap to in front of the radiators. The wires for the switch and for the power from the light circuits I ran across the top of the engine across the intake where Ford has run other wires. For these wires I used loom to hide them.
There is a very nice spot on the driver side firewall with heat shield tape on it. Poke through this and you can drop the wires right into that fuse compartment area inside the cab. I am mounting my switches to the bottom of the steering wheel with velcro.
The wires to connect to the lighting circuit I ran hidden in more loom along the drivers fender up to that front left headlight. I unplugged the light and spliced the proper wires into the proper light circuit wire as I listed above. This installation looks better than many of the dealer setups Ive seen.
For the installation mount your Relays on the passenger fender next to the battery. I ran the wires for the lights down around the front of the battery and through gap to in front of the radiators. The wires for the switch and for the power from the light circuits I ran across the top of the engine across the intake where Ford has run other wires. For these wires I used loom to hide them.
There is a very nice spot on the driver side firewall with heat shield tape on it. Poke through this and you can drop the wires right into that fuse compartment area inside the cab. I am mounting my switches to the bottom of the steering wheel with velcro.
The wires to connect to the lighting circuit I ran hidden in more loom along the drivers fender up to that front left headlight. I unplugged the light and spliced the proper wires into the proper light circuit wire as I listed above. This installation looks better than many of the dealer setups Ive seen.