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I've heard that the rear disc brakes from a 90's explorer work. the stock fronts from a newer truck probably will too. As for the proper proportioning valve and master cylinder i dont really know.
Your front should already have disc, I am sure in 73 all Ford trucks came with discs as standard equipment. As far as the rear goes I have heard people using newer F150 rearends with factory disc. If your truck does not have disc it is a simple swap you can get all the parts from a wrecker (spindles, backing plates, calipers, rotors, booster/master cylinder and proportioning valve)
You will need the complete front axle with radius arms, brake lines, and rotors off a 1976 to 1979 Ford truck 4x4 or 1976 to 1978 ford 4x4 Bronco. Also off either of the vehicles mentioned you can use the proportionary valve, and the complete set of master cylinder and power booster.
I am in the middle of the swap myself. I took from the nuckle out from a 79 f150. There are 2 routes you can go with tierods, The later model 4x4 has a little larger tierod bolt than the older f 100. If you want to keep your current tierod setup you can go here and buy these bushings :http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_i...products_id=95. This is what I have done, you also should replace the tierod that has the hydraulic valve in it with on for a 75 truck with manual steering. The part number is DS 811. The only problem with that part number is that apparently it doesn't cross at the parts houses that I have been to. But just tell them your truck is manual steering. The other option you have is to replace all your tierods with the setup that came on the 78 79 truck. I would have done this had I not already bought the new tierods that were for my truck. The only problem I am having now is I bought a steering stabilizer and it will not work in place of the hydraulic ram without some fabricatiion. I will address that this weekend. And as someone else said you will need the proportioning valve off your donor truck as well as the master cylinder. I think though that the master cylinders are all the same anymore, 1 big reservoir and 1 smalller one, but I have read that there is something somewhere along the line that does something to the pressure to account for drum brakes, I do not know yet as I have not gotten that far. Also, If you are running full time 4x4 you need to decide whether to install hubs or keep your current stuff. I would guess that you could just put your old hub guts in the newer hub but I do not know. I am replacing it all with new warn hubs and I have also converted over to the 205 transfer case. I have read somewhere as well that if you do put manual hubs in you should either run with your hubs locked or the truck in 4 wheel drive for a few miles a week. This keeps one of the bearings in the 203 transfer case lubed as it only oils it when the transfer case is engaged. If you have the old dana 22 transfer case than that is not a concern. There is also a conversion kit for the 203 transfer case available but I have no idea what it entails. If you have any questions drop me an email anytime and I will help you with what I can. Sorry if this is a hard read but I just got off 13 hour graveyard shift.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.