Timing gear noise
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,545
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From: Coal Region
what year truck do u own wik?
for my 93 i removed the rad, condensor and jacked the motor. i also tilted the motor a little cuz it had a little trouble clearing the center bar on the core support...
for my 93 i removed the rad, condensor and jacked the motor. i also tilted the motor a little cuz it had a little trouble clearing the center bar on the core support...
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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1995 XL. I pulled all the plastic grill stuff and the metal grill support bar that goes up the center of the front opening. I also pulled the bumper and the metal flashing just above it, but that was just in a frenzie to get the plastic grill off. The cam would have cleard with the bumber and the upper flashing on. Motor stayed put. Radiator comes out with two bolts. The lower radiator bracket clips at the corners of the rad and do not interfear with cam removal.
When I 1st drove with the new cam, I was impressed. But I'm pretty sure that I had the ignition timing way advanced. So that sort of scewed any inital comments that I made. Now that I have it at 11d, it's just a little more grunt(exhaust sounds alot better). The techies at Clifford tell me that in order to get max performance from this cam that I need to advance to 28d BTDC and get an MSD 6A. So maybe I just need to get this thing tuned in.
When I 1st drove with the new cam, I was impressed. But I'm pretty sure that I had the ignition timing way advanced. So that sort of scewed any inital comments that I made. Now that I have it at 11d, it's just a little more grunt(exhaust sounds alot better). The techies at Clifford tell me that in order to get max performance from this cam that I need to advance to 28d BTDC and get an MSD 6A. So maybe I just need to get this thing tuned in.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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Thats what I was thinking optikal...28 BTDC sounds like alot
Remove the radiator, grille and center support bracket....do not remove radiator support, bumper, sheetmetal above bumper....don't raise the engine....sounds too easy....cool. Never replaced an inline camshaft while the engine was installed, others made it sound very difficult, not that rasing the engine a couple inches is difficult.
Lemme know what you think of that cam as you drive the truck more, like mentioned I have it, just not sure I wanna use it. Open to offers..
Remove the radiator, grille and center support bracket....do not remove radiator support, bumper, sheetmetal above bumper....don't raise the engine....sounds too easy....cool. Never replaced an inline camshaft while the engine was installed, others made it sound very difficult, not that rasing the engine a couple inches is difficult.
Lemme know what you think of that cam as you drive the truck more, like mentioned I have it, just not sure I wanna use it. Open to offers..
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I can't believe that I made is sound easy, but OK. Having the bumber off was worth while. I'd reccomend it, just not required for a 1995 2wd. It makes it easier to lean into the front of the motor and it's only held on with 4 nuts anyways.
I have an idea on how to handle that long camshaft for smooth removal and instalation. SR really had me worried about those bearings and I feel that it was a valid warning (my 'mechanic' buddy swore i wiped-out my cam bearings when he heard the gear whine...even had it at his shop. He called ford abou tthe whinne and ford concured that it was very likly that an amature mechanic would have damaged those bearings with the 300's long cam). Any way, consider this: cut a 3-4" piece of 7/16 all thread and tighten it into the nose of the cam in the motor. Wrap your new cam in shop rags and duct tape and screw it's nose into the cam that's still in the motor. Pull out the old cam. The weight of the new cam will counter balance the weight of the cam in the motor and help you to pull it straight out without it smacking anything. Reverse the process for installation. A 3 foot length of all thread alone does not give you much control at all over the end of the cam. I feel that this method will.
I have an idea on how to handle that long camshaft for smooth removal and instalation. SR really had me worried about those bearings and I feel that it was a valid warning (my 'mechanic' buddy swore i wiped-out my cam bearings when he heard the gear whine...even had it at his shop. He called ford abou tthe whinne and ford concured that it was very likly that an amature mechanic would have damaged those bearings with the 300's long cam). Any way, consider this: cut a 3-4" piece of 7/16 all thread and tighten it into the nose of the cam in the motor. Wrap your new cam in shop rags and duct tape and screw it's nose into the cam that's still in the motor. Pull out the old cam. The weight of the new cam will counter balance the weight of the cam in the motor and help you to pull it straight out without it smacking anything. Reverse the process for installation. A 3 foot length of all thread alone does not give you much control at all over the end of the cam. I feel that this method will.
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Junior User
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I didn't buy the 28d thing either. Just had me considering that maybe some more advance may be in order.
It's hard to describe sounds but it just sounds hotter. Maybe a little more pop. Sharper sound. Noticable difference. Idles slower and just slighly rougher. I could't call it lope. Computers probably still trying to work out all the timing changes I made over the past week or two.
It's hard to describe sounds but it just sounds hotter. Maybe a little more pop. Sharper sound. Noticable difference. Idles slower and just slighly rougher. I could't call it lope. Computers probably still trying to work out all the timing changes I made over the past week or two.
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I just posted a pic of the bad cam gear in my gallery. Take a look. Not too impressive of a photo, but the bumps that you can see run straigh down the center of all the teeth. Some are larger than the others and on some/most teeth you can feel where one side of the tooth is higer that the other. Still haven't called Cloyes.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Hey Motor Head
I was just over on the Fordsix page and saw a guy talking about a cam replacement. He had to remove the bumber and the sheet metal above it for the cam to clear. Since I had mine off already, I didn't realize that it was actually required. I didn't see what year his truck was, but you should probably plan to take yours off too. The bumber is easy. The sheet metal is kind of a pain...maybe a half hour.
PS. Did an uphill 25-60mph in 3rd. 0.5 sec faster than on flat, pre-cam.
PS. Did an uphill 25-60mph in 3rd. 0.5 sec faster than on flat, pre-cam.
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